Eddy Bénézet has just bought the Petit Victor Hugo in the 16th arrondissement. It's the chicest, airiest restaurant in the entire area.

The menu is created by a duo of chefs, Johann Dudemaine and Hicham Ouadi, formerly of Prunier Madeleine. Three preparations to share as an aperitif, including an excellent homemade cod tarama. Among the starters, with the current cold weather, butternut and chestnut velouté…