That's all the magic.
R48 (Photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot)
without a forced show.
R48 (Photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot)
"Experience", "dedicate yourself", "laboratory", "tweezers", "treasures", "story", "journey", "harmony" - the opening statement of the R48 restaurant in Tel Aviv included lots and lots of vague words, and very little concrete information .
Lots of atmosphere and spirit, much less "can someone please tell me what's in the main course?".
It was an attempt, it seems, to lay an almost philosophical, but still iron-clad foundation for a project that began more than a decade ago, and has only now been resurrected in a real way.
As such, he didn't want to straight up mess with "what's on the menu" like everyone else, but to gently ask "trust us, lean back in the chair and it will be fine".
The overwhelming majority of food and restaurateurs in Israel would fall with such an opening blow, but Ruthi and Matti Brodo are neither "the majority", nor do they have enough credit, and enough experience, To Pull It Off.
The result is, of course,
So yes, there is something in secrecy, and even more something in magic and mystery, and there is no doubt that this formula works from the moment you enter until the moment you look apprehensively at the belt, but it's still worth telling what exactly happens there, and how this menu actually translates to plates.
Or as the great Ido Isaiah says - here are spoilers for episodes 1-11 of the hottest tasting dinner in town right now.
enjoy your meal!
You can lean back.
R48
1/12 Ruthie Brodo and Ohad Solomon (photo: , Asaf Carla)
The kitchen is open, but free of the "open kitchen syndrome" that forces teams throughout Israel (and the world) to a forced show.
In this place, it seems that one of the main ambitions of the restaurant is marked with a first V - an experience of hospitality at home
The way to the restaurant is climbing gray stone steps from Rothschild Blvd., walking through what will be a spectacular urban garden as soon as this seemingly winter is officially gone from our lives, entering the doors of the hotel itself (which is also open to guests these very days), crossing the lobby, looking left at the bar, and finally sitting down In a small space, but definitely not tiny.
The glass walls that wrap around the west wing of the restaurant bring in a little of the urban green, and the rest is done by the furniture and the utensils (although it's worth, if I may, to play a little with the lighting, yellow instead of white, because the only ones who enjoy it like that are the smartphone cameras).
The kitchen is open, but free of the "open kitchen syndrome" that forces teams throughout Israel (and the world) to a forced show.
In this place, it seems that one of the main ambitions of the restaurant is marked with a first V - an experience of hospitality at home.
For the purpose of that experience, Ohad Solomon is the host, but only if you've ever eaten at a chef who doesn't need you to see, and it's much more important to him that you enjoy.
And swear of course.
And in that spirit, we should start eating something, right?
10 years, 9 tables and exactly 0 menus
Ruthie Brodu's new dream restaurant
To the full article
opening blow.
R48 (Photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot)
Energy in the palm of your hand.
R48's tacos (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)
Solomon and Brodo announced ahead of time that there will not be a tasting meal full of "bites", but a menu that will not send you to the nearest shawarma.
Therefore, the first quartet of overtures is also the last small tastings.
First, "Paf Mong", a kind of crispy pocket stuffed with tomato cream (actually "sambal", a red sauce from Indonesian cuisine) and cashew cream.
The recommendation is to "try to eat the whole thing at once", but this is a recommendation that does not take into account your fason, which collapses under the key of the mouth.
Either way, a worthy, intriguing opening, and certainly one that signs a passport at the first stop of the trip.
further.
"Bisan Fara" is a kind of small taco made of black sesame, with beef tartare and fresh herbs, which breaks right into freshness and liveliness.
The next two bites - a Jerusalem artichoke wrap containing the Jerusalem artichoke itself with peanut masala and cilantro chutney, and a kind of thin potato ball with potato cream, ricotta,
A Jerusalem homage.
R48 (Photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot)
Deep soil plowing.
R48 (Photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot)
The women of the staff recommend arranging everything in a spoon.
What actually happens is raking with many hands and tools, sipping and chewing, which is anything but a "tidy bite", but at the same time also the natural way to eat it
Next up is Mohinga, a Burmese street soup with tall chickpea noodles that highlights turmeric-ginger-celery flavors while bubbling its way to the top of the orange soups served west of Chiang Mai.
Immediately after it, they break again with chopsticks and a deep bowl of sashimi palmade, blood orange, green apple, lemon grass, kohlrabi and herbs.
Here too, the ladies of the staff (the luxurious ones, let's say it in the middle and not at the end, because it's a shame to spoil a compliment for such good service after you've already passed out from the food) recommend arranging everything in a spoon, "and putting together a perfect bite".
Here too, what actually happens is raking with many hands and tools, sipping and chewing, which is anything but a "tidy bite", but at the same time also the natural way to eat it.
fiery orange
R48's soup (Photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)
Raking, and elimination.
R48's sashimi (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)
It was a high point, it was also a low point (when we realized that there is no hala for the Negev here, and there will not be a hala for the Negev, and instead you will wipe with the meager means at your disposal. That is, tongue)
Crab noddies bring you back to the kitchens of comfort, with a medium deep plate of semolina dumplings, crab meat, fresh basil and deep sea stock.
It was a high point, it was also a low point (when we realized that there is no hala for the Negev here, and there will not be a hala for the Negev, and instead you will wipe with the meager means at your disposal. That is, language).
The meal is timed for each table at its own individual pace, but it was easy to recognize that after this dish, the overwhelming majority of the diners were on the verge of complete satiety, and beyond.
A careful count of the portions made it clear that we were not there yet.
High tide, low tide.
The nodi of R48
View this post on Instagram
A post shared by Yaniv Granot (@yanivgranot)
The protein anchor of the meal begins with a leafy salad with semolina crackers, pumpkin seed salsa and macadamia cream.
It is meant, I suppose, to refresh the mind and the stomach and it is delicious on its own, but as mentioned - this is also the stage where you poke a little at the plate and wonder if it is possible to come to perfection at another time.
The answer is no, and it comes in the form of a butcher's cut ("I would have enjoyed closing the meal with a good fish, but we received a lot of feedback from diners who wanted some meat at the end," Solomon admitted) excellent, with lemon grass salsa, grilled green vegetables and butter potato mashed potatoes, which was Somehow both thick and creamy, both too much and too little.
to interpret
The R48 salad (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)
It's not over yet.
R48's steak (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)
The two signature desserts are tonka panna cotta with strawberry jam and blush, fresh strawberries and dried strawberry meringue which was designed - and succeeded - to lighten the meat, and also a "chocolate taco" that cradles chocolate crema, tiny brownie cubes and black sesame paita.
"We started with tacos, we finished with tacos," says the waitress.
A spoonful from the brown bowl, a bite from the taco, the statement "enough I can't take it anymore, this time really", and God forbid, until there is nothing left to eat, and there is nothing left to turn away, except for the remnants of your non-existent restraint.
The journey is complete.
Chocolate tacos for R48 (Photo: Walla! System, Yaniv Granot)
The curse is necessary.
R48 panna cotta (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)
This is an amount that requires thought, of course, but this thought, as described above, does not have to deal with quantities, value for money, or the concepts of satiety
Brodo, Solomon and everyone who knows how to talk about the hotel and the restaurant are still busy fine-tuning which is the moment after the opening.
All the concept talk, the words on the page, and the shouting in the head are now impressively syncronized into just one meal, every night.
Later, they explained, there may be a second return round, or maybe even half a round, in what will surely be a very attractive deal for those who don't have to eat so much.
This whole story - plus mineral water and soda, minus alcohol - costs 500 shekels per person, and it is likely that a couple's date that also drinks something in the region of 1,500 shekels will close.
This is an amount that requires thought, of course, but this thought, as described above, does not need to deal with quantities, value for money, or concepts of satiety.
Your money goes a long way here, and in fact contradicts many of the cornerstones of contemporary Israeli restaurants, which will give you much less for much more.
Obligation of proof that proves itself.
Solomon (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)
Either way, the first steps on the R48 running track are impressive, smooth and surprisingly fast.
The pace is good, and knows how to accommodate both a cigarette break and babysitter worries.
The utility shell works flawlessly, and is charming in its ability to make you feel comfortable.
This means real smiles, of the true and rare variety, but also a bartender who goes out of his way to find out what the hell you meant by "I need something sour in the cocktail", but knows how to do it without making you look like an idiot.
Solomon himself looks at everything from the side with a small smile, which is both suppressed excitement and a duty of proof that proves itself.
Brodo, on the other hand, waits for the edge of the meal to walk around a bit, to chat a bit and above all to spice up the space with a final touch of stardust.
It may not be on the menu, but it's the aftertaste everyone will remember.
Just ask the three girls from the table next to her who took her on a long verbal tour of the history of their lunch orders from the Delicatessen.
"Story", "Journey", "Experience".
Now it all comes together.
R48, inside R48 Hotel & Garden, Rothschild 48, Tel Aviv, will for now operate on Sunday-Friday evenings.
Orders here
Food
The food news
Tags
Ruthie Brodo
Brasserie
Delicatessen
Montefiore Hotel
