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Daniel Roth, the rebirth of a legend of independent watchmaking


Thirty-five years after its founding, the house of Daniel Roth is making a comeback, of course with a Tourbillon Subscription, a tribute to the original 1988 model.

All lovers of the work of Abraham-Louis Breguet know what we owe to Daniel Roth, one of the most talented watchmakers of the modern era.

It is to him that we owe having transposed all the elegance and style of Breguet so well to the wrist.

It was during the time of the Chaumet brothers that he would play a key role in the resurrection of the house, developing the very first tourbillon wristwatch.

But at a time when people wondered if traditional watchmaking still had a future, Daniel Roth was also one of the pioneers of independent watchmaking.

It launched on its own in 1988, thus paving the way for future generations of independent watchmakers, and developing grand complications that have become legendary, both technically and aesthetically.

The revival of Daniel Roth within the Time Factory.

Daniel Roth

Still recognizable among all today, its inimitable Ellipsocurvex case, its double ellipse case has combined the circle and the square for 35 years.

An ideal shape to accommodate an off-centred dial and magnify the one-minute tourbillon carriage.

The revival of Daniel Roth within the Time Factory.

Daniel Roth

It is now within La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton that the brand will be reborn to breathe new life into Objet d'Art watches.

"Our ambition for Daniel Roth is to respect the heritage of the brand, while deploying the concepts and artisanal techniques that Enrico and I have acquired during our careers", explains Michel Navas.

“We are committed to remaining faithful to the origins of the brand and the artisanal design of its first watches, because Daniel is a long-time friend,” adds Enrico Barbasini.

“Many of us admire his work.

Daniel is a major figure in the industry and a true pioneer of contemporary independent watchmaking.


The revival of Daniel Roth within the Time Factory.

Daniel Roth

A Tourbillon Subscription will mark the first step in the revival of Daniel Roth.

Limited to just 20 pieces, the Tourbillon Souscription is inspired by the original 1988 model, not only in its design and execution, but also in its distribution.

The timepiece will be marketed as part of a “subscription” series.

As in the days of Breguet, after the Revolution, patrons of Daniel Roth will have to “subscribe” by paying a deposit when ordering, then pay the balance upon delivery of the watch in early 2024. Displayed at 140,000 francs Swiss francs excluding VAT (i.e. approximately 145,000 euros), the Tourbillon Subscription will be available exclusively from a selection of partner distributors.

The revival of Daniel Roth within the Time Factory.

Daniel Roth

Executed in traditional yellow gold – a metal exclusive to this edition – the case of the Tourbillon Subscription naturally presents the shape of a double ellipse.

Its unique front face gives it a thinness of only 9.2 mm, exacerbating the elegance of this creation.

While its Ellipsocurvex shape takes up the proportions of the initial model, the case of the new edition has been enriched with subtle details.

Still meticulously welded by hand to the middle of the timepiece, the lugs have been somewhat reshaped into an elegant descending arc in order to optimize the ergonomics of the emblematic case.

The dial also celebrates the history of the brand.

The current, even more refined version is made of solid yellow gold, Clous de Paris guilloché like the 1988 watch. A perfect illustration of contemporary independent watchmaking – an industry born from the avant-garde vision of Daniel Roth – , this dial was produced in the Alpine workshops of Kari Voutilainen, one of today's biggest names in independent watchmaking.

The revival of Daniel Roth within the Time Factory.

Daniel Roth

The dial houses a Manufacture caliber DR001 specially developed for the Tourbillon Subscription.

This movement was entirely designed by La Fabrique du Temps, Louis Vuitton's Geneva fine watchmaking workshop founded by master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, who will personally oversee the creation of each Daniel Roth timepiece.

The hand-wound caliber DR001 is equipped with a generous 80-hour power reserve.

The centerpiece of the DR001 caliber, the tourbillon regulator has been specially designed to reflect the uniqueness of the original mechanism.

Every minute, the tourbillon performs a complete revolution allowing it to mark the seconds.

The revival of Daniel Roth within the Time Factory.

Daniel Roth

Ultimate detail: just like in the original 1988 version, the tourbillon is accompanied by a detail that is only revealed to the eyes of the owner.

The arms of the second hand evolve according to each zone, the longest of them requires a tiny cut in the internal wall of the case to be able to clear a passage.

Source: lefigaro

All news articles on 2023-03-21

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