Completely detached. That's how it feels. In the midst of the mudflats, the coasts of the three North Sea islands seem to be endlessly far away: It is only three and a half kilometers to Sylt, four kilometers to Foehr, three kilometers to Amrum.
Even after 20 years in the watt packs this freedom the Amrumer Dark Blome. "This is one of the most beautiful corners that I know," says the mudflat and draws in the sand as ebb and flow arise. Sun, earth, moon - the secret of the tides.
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Hiking in the Wadden Sea: steps in the mudThere are nine people this morning who want to walk from the town center in Norddorf on Amrum to Dunsum on the neighboring island of Föhr. Next to the house where he was born, Blome is waiting for his guests at 8 o'clock.
Quick one last bite into the breakfast sandwich from the island café Schult. The trained baker himself worked there once. For a long time, however, the wanderings through the mudflats are his bread and butter. Almost 350 days a year, Blome claims to be the only recognized national park wading guide on Amrum in the UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Wadden Sea has just celebrated its fifth anniversary on the list of the United Nations.
The 56-year-old has estimated 14 kilometers for today's tour - a sporty program. Instead of on the direct route to Foehr Blome wants to lead the group in a pan across the Cormorant Island, a large sandbar off the coasts of the islands Amrum, Sylt and Föhr. The air is mild, but the wind is fresh. The sky is still gray in gray.
The last toilet in front of Föhr
The shoes stay on for the first three kilometers. An asphalt road leads between the Marschwiesen through the direction of the dike. Blome tells about the island's historical origins through an ice age and the current problem with the breeding nun geese.
At the end of the last boardwalk the adventure begins: freeing your feet, stowing your shoes and socks. Almost all scurry into the toilet. "This is the last toilet before Föhr," says Blome. The neighboring island does not seem so far away. On the horizon you can see their silhouette clearly. But the distances in the uniform tidal zone can be deceiving.
If you go into the watt, you should only do this with a knowledgeable guide. He knows his way around, knows how the weather, the tides and the high tide influence the way, and brings you safely from one island to another.
Dark Blome takes it even after countless years in the mud exactly. He has stowed maps and compass in his backpack. And in case of cases, an additional spare compass. The start of the tours varies depending on the time of the ebb and flow: Around two hours before low tide the hike starts.
For some participants today is premiere, others are repeat offenders. Blome does not have more than 35 people. So he has enough time for each individual. The protected habitat of many animals and plants raises different questions each time.
That the spaghettiartigen sand piles on the seabed of lugworms come, is almost general education for North Sea coastal tourists. However, why they are tender and small at the beginning of the watt, Blome explains. "This is our youth center for the young worms," he says. And points the way to "retirement home".
Big waves, small grooves, tight ripples
With each step, the toes dig into the fine sand. But not everywhere has the sea completely withdrawn. Barefoot is not enough walking through the big Priel in front of Amrum. As Priel a watercourse in the watts is called.
So a short stopover to roll up the pants. If you want to be sure, just take them off. Concentrated follows the group Blome, which runs purposefully through the gray monotony of the North Sea. Again and again small waves splash up to the thighs. Twelve degrees water temperature are less uncomfortable than imagined. Nobody wants to flop anyway.
More tips for hiking trails about German islands can be found here:
The view remains focused on the ground. Now come the shell banks, warns Blome. Scattered are large and small specimens of sharp-edged oysters on the ground. Nobody wants to risk a cut. In addition, the seabed always shows different wave drawings. Big waves, small grooves, tight ripples - a Natukunstwerk in reduced colors.
Dark Blome proves that there is a lot of life beneath this surface. He digs a lugworm out of the sand with the tiller he carries on his backpack: "That's a pretty Johnny, I've never had such a big one," says Blome.
Then he holds up the sphincter of a seagull. The birds swallow whole shells and choke up the remains of the shells. "For Möwenkotze smells that okay," says Blome. The tide is coming, time is pressing. "I would like to ask you to keep my pace," says the mudflat. Everybody lingers on his thoughts for minutes.
Baby seal in sight
At the Cormorant Island the group gathers again. Blome points to the front and passes his binoculars around. A baby seal is only a few meters away on the dry ground. "We do not want to disturb him, otherwise he slips on his fresh navel to the water," he says.
At the edge of the sandbank rests a second, larger animal, then it crawls surprisingly fast towards the water. Within sight of the dike in Dunsum on Föhr Blome stops the group and looks at his watch. "At ten past one she must come," he says. You, that's the tide. Minute by minute passes - and then it goes very fast.
Not enough of small islands? Then there are more tips worldwide:
A white line moves ever closer, fine noise accompanies her. Then the seawater flows over the sandy soil on which the group stands, laps bare feet and ankles and continues towards the shore. The power of the tides - here you can experience it for a moment.
A bus then brings the group to Wyk, with the ferry back to the neighboring island.
