The more uncomfortable the weather gets outside, the more the soul demands warming food. For mushroom vegetables for example. Suitable for the time with the highly aromatic autumn trumpets (Craterellus cornucopioides) sprouting around the dead Sunday, which are therefore also called trumpets.
However, unlike the more homeopathic doses in which we last used crusted monkfish cheeks at this point, in today's recipe they are partners for pork fillet and potatoes at eye level. In the roulade roast with roasted onion purée and totem trumpets, they also fulfill an important function as a flavoring agent in the sauce. But more important are the onions.
For the Roulade accompanying roasted onion puree is first cooked a stink normal mashed potatoes, preferably with semi-solid to festkochenden varieties such as Linda, Gala, Annabelle, Secura, Marabel or the only outside pink Rosara. Mixers of all kinds are not to be found in the preparation because they change the starch structure of the boiled potatoes to an undesirable stickiness. The best way to squeeze in threads with a manual potato press and incorporate the other ingredients such as butter, nutmeg and hot milk with the help of a fork.
However, the roasted onions are, of course, the flavor determining factor in this side dish. The least amount of fat is needed to make them, cutting the onions into sixteenth-half slices and roasting them on a tray covered with baking paper in the oven. Depending on the sweetness of the variety used, it is helpful to enhance the caramelization under the end of the gridded grill by sprinkling sieved icing sugar. If you have a sous vide water bath within your reach and have enough time, you can boost the aroma by startering in a vacuum bag (12 hours at 85 ° C water temperature) in star kitchen dimensions.
In addition to the shallots, the star kitchen in Europe only processes one type of onion: the pink Roscoff cultivated in north-western Brittany since the 17th century. It was brought in 1647 by a Breton monk from Lisbon. It got its name from the today rather meaningless small seaport of the Breton place Roscoff. From there, the French onion traders shipped vegetables to the British Isles since the 19th century and later also to the world.
Where onions become super delicacies
This onion impresses with its balance of strong yet pleasant aroma at the raw consumption and a taste-rich noble sweetness after cooking or frying achieved by no other variety. In order to counter plagiarism, the French breeders have the Roscoff now registered as a protected designation of origin AOC. Traditionally, the onions are tied after harvest to a braid, the "penn capiten" (Breton for "captain's head"). So they hang easily in a well-ventilated pantry or in the attic over the winter. If you want to further explore the subject, you can visit the onion festival in August and the Musée de l'oignon all year round in Roscoff.
Like most traditionally high quality foods, the Roscoffs have their price. One kilogram of these supernatural nuts with their exceedingly high content of vitamin C seldom costs less than five euros. With this, you pay for a quality that can only be produced by hand: The onions are individually pulled out of the ground one at a time during the harvest and picked up after an eight-day drying period.
This is how the hobby cook cries three times: when shopping, while peeling - and with pleasure at the meal.