"There are so many books about antiquity, mythology, ancient Athens, but hardly anything about the city in the present." With this insight, Elissavet Patrikiou plunged into a culinary and cultural adventure over a year ago. Growing up in Germany, the food photographer with Greek roots traveled from Hamburg to Greece's capital for several months to write a cookbook there.
What came out is more than a recipe collection for souvlaki, moussaka and sheep's cheese salad. Patrikiou has written a travel book that tells of people who make up Athens - and who can tell stories about how the city has changed in the years following the financial crisis.
"It's amazing," says Patrikiou, "but in times of crisis, there's a lot going on in the creative, artistic field." During her rambles through taverns, clubs, snack bars and gourmet restaurants, she was amazed at how much energy and optimism people are starting new projects here. "People are passionate about it." For Patrikiou, Athens is a "wild and colorful diva full of punk".
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Travel Tips for Athens: Forget Souvlaki!"The best way to get to know a city is to learn about the people who live there," is the Creed of the Greek. And who wants to get into conversation with the Athenians, he has to eat with them. But which taverns are worthwhile? And what's on your plate?
Here Elissavet Patrikiou gives tips for an unforgettable trip to Athens!
Where does the journey begin?
"Of course, at the Acropolis," says Patrikiou. "There is no better place to arrive in the city." However, it depends very much on how you experience the famous fortress. Your tip: best on foot. According to Patrikiou, the most beautiful way leads from the centrally located Monastiraki Square over the old town Plaka. "There in the streets you can not feel anything of the hectic city."
It would be an advantage to be as early as possible at the Acropolis in order not to arrive with all the coaches. If it is still too crowded, you can easily experience the building on a short hike: "Around the Acropolis there are small paths that you can discover on your own."
How to explore Athens best?
Athens is huge, but the most beautiful areas are best explored on foot. "The neighborhoods are merging," says Patrikiou. "You turn the corner and feel like you're in another world." The best example of this is the transition from the rich quarters of Kolonaki and Exarchia - the district that the Athenians call "Anarchia".
What can visitors experience in Exarchia - and what to eat?
Anyone visiting Athens should have been in Exachia, says Patrikiou. "It is the heart of the city, here in the seventies after the military dictatorship again democracy emerged." The district is not known for sights, but for his protest culture, his attitude. "Anyone who lives here does that consciously," says Patrikiou. The people here had opted for "a life together", "for an alternative society".
It is in this environment that the Shedia Home Restaurant invites guests to dine, it has emerged from a homeless project. It was opened by an Australian with Greek roots and a German. Greek top chef Lefteris Lazarou has trained staff to serve their guests hearty bean stew and beetroot salad.
Where else is there good food?
The people in the aprons - in the opinion of Patrikiou, they are the charm of the city. They are portrayed in "Athens - the Cookbook" as well as the main quarters.
There is Gogo, the tattooed lawyer, who swapped the law firm for food and cooks today in the "Bios", a cultural center with restaurant, theater and rooftop bar. According to Patrikiou she is one of the most well-known food bloggers in the country and "is an apparition".
There is also Lianka, who fulfilled her lifelong dream with "Nonna", a meeting place in the Psirrí district. And then there's Stratos Drakoulis, the butcher who tattooed the letters BEEF on his fingers and used activated carbon to bake the burger buns to color them black.
Which address is worthwhile for experimenting Athens visitors?
"I love the peasant salad," says Patrikiou. But you miss a lot, if you only crash on coleslaw and feta cheese. "The Athens restaurant scene is very innovative." Her tip: the Fabrica Tou Efrosinou. "There is little reminiscent of the Greek stereotypes here." Although there are also grape leaves on the map. But the restaurant, opened by wine merchant Athina and chef Giorgos in a run-down warehouse, also offers food that reinterprets Greek cuisine.
Where is Gyros's very traditional tavern ambience?
In Taverna Avli. "It's a feel-good store that makes you feel like you're on a Cycladic island - right in the middle of the big city," says Patrikiou. She likes the place because of its lovely decor, because of the omelette with pastrami and the meze, these are Greek starters that end up in abundance on the blue and white gingham tablecloth. And what drink? "An ice-cold beer or a tsipouro."
You want gourmet food?
According to Patrikiou, one can be curious about the new project by Georgianna Hiliadaki and Nikos Roussos. They have already earned two Michelin stars with their Funky Gourmet restaurant, but move to the Hilton Hotel in 2020. More information is available on their website.
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Patrikiou, Elissavet
Athens - The cookbook: special places, special people and passion for good food
Publishing company:
Southwest publishing house
Pages:
240
Price:
32,00 €
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And where are you celebrating?
In the Six Dogs, a hip club with courtyard, trees and good cocktails. According to Patrikiou, it is the perfect place for night owls, but also a recommended place for a long family brunch. Conclusion: "The Six Dogs stands for the young Athens as the Pantheon for the old, here you can feel the modern capital."