Young-Ah KIM / Young-Ah Kim for Louise Wittlich
To person
Louise Wittlich is a trained fashion designer. In 1996 she went to Paris, met a professional make-up artist - and was fascinated. She taught herself the profession and now works for big fashion companies like Chanel, Balenciaga and Tiffany as well as magazines like Vogue, Marie Claire and Harper's Bazaar. Since 2009 she has been giving courses and individual advice on corporate make-up, most recently also in connection with communication advice.
SPIEGEL: What is corporate make-up?
Louise Wittlich: It's about consciously shaping the visual impression you make on others in your professional life. In Germany in particular, many women are afraid of paying too much attention to this aspect: The discussion about make-up at work, what looks good and what not, often immediately turns into a debate about sexism. But just because you wear lipstick doesn't mean you have no intellect! I've lived in Paris for 30 years. By the way, French women like to play this trump card of femininity, they have no problem with it. It's really interesting what kind of flush a lipstick can cause.
SPIEGEL: You give courses for employees. Should employers now also prescribe make-up?
Wittlich: I work with customers from the luxury industry: the Hyatt hotel chain, the Balenciaga fashion brand, the Tiffany jeweler. For companies, their people are the figureheads. Of course, such brands want their employees to fit into the respective context.
SPIEGEL: What does that mean exactly?
Wittlich: For example, there is the rule that make-up should look natural - but nowhere is it clearly defined what is meant by it. Except maybe that glitter is generally banned. The only requirement I get is: It should look subtle and natural and, if possible, last all day. I then create tutorials and show the women what something like this can look like - and how good it looks. In the so-called look books you will also find black women, white and Asian women - of course the look is adapted to the respective type, but always subtle.
SPIEGEL: Isn't it sexist to just tell women what to do and what not to do?
Wittlich: For men there are also grooming guides in the companies who define exactly what is possible or not with a beard and what the hands should look like. As humans, we are all sensitive to visual impressions. Even if we want to, we cannot ignore it. So we should design this visual impression consciously - men and women. That's not unprofessional, on the contrary.
SPIEGEL: Are there regional differences?
Wittlich: The main trend in Europe is that make-up doesn't look like make-up at all. Conjure up a little freshness and even out the complexion, almost without looking made up. It's different in Japan. Make-up is almost perceived as a kind of piece of clothing without women feeling naked. The point is not to hide defects, but to put a layer as a protective shield between yourself and the world. And all women are expected to wear makeup.
SPIEGEL: There are jobs in which you have less direct contact.
Wittlich: I am currently teaching a course in a business school: The students wanted to know what good make-up looks like for Zoom or Skype. Because at the moment a lot of job interviews are being conducted via video. They want to present themselves well.
SPIEGEL: And? What are your best tips?
Wittlich: First: put a sheet of white paper in front of you on the table, preferably at an angle across the keyboard. This gives a bottom lightener that naturally softens the shadows on your face. You don't have to do much with your complexion because the low camera resolution means that many skin problems are not even visible. But do something to open your eyes - use an eyelash curler, it will make your eyes sparkle, and maybe a little mascara.
SPIEGEL: And what about the men?
Wittlich: They often have a problem with shiny skin. Powder has a slightly artificial effect, a matting gel is better, which is completely invisible, but takes away the shine - especially men with bald heads simply look better with it.
Icon: The mirror