After the shock, they did not give up.
Struck by administrative closures, worried about the successive postponements of their reopening dates, some restaurateurs continue, after all, to get up at dawn to satisfy some of their customers.
It is this chef from Dardilly (Rhône-Alpes) who converted his veranda into a wine cellar, welcoming customers in a different way.
Or this Parisian brasserie which has set up new menus sold in boxes, with longer expiry dates, or these cooks who take turns, in the center of Lyon (Rhône), in the Caravan of chefs, a food- common truck that allows them to make themselves known.
All, in their own way, are inventive.
“Consumer demand has changed, but it is still there, especially to have fun,” explains François Blouin, president of Food service vision, a restaurant market research firm.
The proportion of restaurateurs who choose to continue working is estimated at around one third.
Among them, some have transformed.
"
Social networks and solidarity
For these "resistant", the good use of communication and social networks is decisive.
“As early as March, we recovered the email addresses of our loyal customers,” explains Georgie Goutte, chef of the Bol air restaurant in Dardilly (Rhône-Alpes).
Thanks to this file, we contacted them all to warn that the restaurant was continuing its activity.
"
Originally from the South-West, Georgie now offers cassoulet to take away.
He has organized Facebook events with a local wine merchant and places his meals in various shops and grocery stores in the area.
Neighborhood solidarity has played a role.
Gradually, from restaurateur, Georgie became a caterer, managing in December to secure nearly 50% of her usual turnover.
In the center of Lyon, chef Joseph Viala, owner of the Daniel et Denise stopper
,
transformed his restaurants into grocery stores in April.
“The idea had been running through my head for years.
I took the plunge!
»He rejoices.
Last summer, he reopened his restaurants and at the same time continued to sell take-out.
In September, his team was well established.
"It brings in another type of clientele that we have never seen before," positive the one who currently claims to save a third of its turnover.
All of Paris in one click
At Bouillon Pigalle, in the north of Paris, the starter-main course-dessert formula at 10 euros offered for delivery or "click and collect" (
Editor's note: ordered online and picked up in store
) since May by this brasserie d he very touristy ordinary is being followed.
“Since the Covid, we no longer have tourists, but with take-out, we are expanding our clientele to the whole of Paris,” says Augustin Galliath, operational manager of the brewery renamed Bouillon Service for the occasion.
In addition, some companies now call them to place group orders for lunch.
“Recently, we had a lot of orders from a crew making a movie,” he says.
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Even if they are doing well, all these restaurateurs are eager to reopen their doors.
"With the best will in the world, they do not do wonders, relativizes Hubert Jan, president of restaurateurs at Umih (Union of trades and industries of the hotel industry), one of the main unions in the sector.
Most are also annoyed when we tell them that we have to reinvent ourselves.
"
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Because despite all their ingenuity, sales are very far from their usual level of activity.
Overall, the 110,000 traditional French restaurants (excluding cafes, hotels and caterers) generated a turnover of 30 billion euros in 2018, according to Fafih, the sector training organization.
Like Aymeric Dreux in Essonne, many chefs have turned to caterers.
LP / Cécile Chevallier.
Tired of war, some restaurateurs - a minority - even cross the Rubicon and decide to open clandestine back rooms illegally. Others try take-out before giving up, failing to achieve the expected success. “I tried, I stopped, admits Ludovic Campus, owner of three restaurants in Lyon. I had developed a concept of "dark kitchen"
(Editor's note: restaurant only dedicated to delivery)
to make poke bowl
(a Hawaiian dish presented in a bowl),
but in my neighborhood, the competition was too high ", deplores he. For lack of having a website worthy of the name, their only option is to close outright ... and wait, which has become interminable.