Milan's "fashion week" opened on Wednesday in an optimistic climate: a delegation of Chinese buyers is expected for the first time since the pandemic and the turnover of Italian fashion is growing.
Until Monday, the Lombard capital will present its vision of women's fashion for the spring-summer 2023 season, with 210 appointments in total: 68 fashion shows, more than 110 presentations and 30 events.
The February parades had been overshadowed by the outbreak of war in Ukraine.
This edition, on the other hand, promises to be very well attended, thanks to the return of a large participation from abroad: 300 journalists and 450 buyers are expected, including a Chinese delegation, the first since the pandemic.
The big houses are not missing, from Gucci to Prada via Versace, Armani, Dolce & Gabbbana and Bottega Veneta.
The first big shoe to parade, Fendi opened the ball on Wednesday by immersing the audience in a techno party atmosphere very strongly inspired by the 90s. in vinyl wedges, the dresses and the notched mesh are contrasted by the use of precious material, silk, braided leather, fur and a pastel palette enhanced with absinthe green,
what to get drunk.
During this fashion week, Moncler will celebrate its 70th anniversary and Ferragamo will parade on the site of its future Milanese hotel.
We will also observe Marco de Vincenzo in the role of new artistic director of the Etro house, Filippo Grazioli at Missoni or Andrea Incontri at the controls of the Benetton brand.
New faces like Valentina Ilardi, Marco Rambaldi or Matty Bovan will allow you to sniff out new trends.
Although Europe is facing the energy crisis and runaway inflation, Italian fashion turnover increased by 25% in the first half of 2022, "the strongest growth in the sector in the last 20 years", according to underlined Carlo Capasa, the president of the Italian fashion chamber, during the press conference presenting the “fashion week”.
Growth similar to that of the 1st half of 2021, which had represented a rebound from the lowest levels of the Covid-19 crisis, leading the fashion chamber to forecast annual turnover of more than 92 billion euros. euros for 2022.
The growth in turnover is partly explained by the increase in prices, due to the increase in the costs of energy and raw materials.
However, this turnover still increased by more than 18% in constant prices, returning to levels before the 2008 financial crisis. year that will depend on policies to contain inflation and the energy crisis.
Export figures for the first five months of 2022 have increased significantly (+21.9% for fashion, +30.2% in related sectors).
The American and South Korean markets were the most dynamic.
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On the other hand, a sharp slowdown was felt in the Chinese market and of course in Russia due to the sanctions put in place by the luxury industry after the Russian invasion of Ukraine. energy crisis is important on fashion because the entire upstream supply chain is energy-intensive.
To make a fabric or a bag you need raw materials that consume a lot of energy,” explained Carlo Capasa.
"The energy cost impact on the product was 10%, and now it's jumped to at least 30%," he said.
"Prices cannot be tweaked indefinitely and that puts companies in the difficult position of wondering if it's worth producing."
While Italians are called to the polls on Sunday for the legislative elections,