Coolness: why is a different skincare routine required this winter?/freepik
2024 is already here and winter is with it.
The temperatures drop, the winds blow, and the air conditioners and heaters work hard.
The Israeli winter is not one of the hardest in the world, but it is characterized by extreme changes in the weather, due to which a series of phenomena appear that it is better to address in advance, understand their effects on the skin and avoid them.
The dry law: key rules for choosing a winning cream
Winter law is not summer law, so the care routine must change.
The winter dryness hits unexpectedly and overnight, not one of the regular products we have used so far is able to moisturize for a long time.
"Cold air and blowing winds cause a chemical phenomenon called leaching, in which the moisture in the skin escapes and is as if 'washed' out of it," says
Shefra Pantanovich, director of cosmetics in Mashbir
.
"It happens when our skin is more humid than the dry environment and the moisture that is kept in the skin 'escapes'. This phenomenon also occurs when we enter a heated space from the cold outside, so in the winter, the skin becomes dry and thin, red and irritated."
"During the day, the body loses tiny amounts of water through the skin, through a continuous process of evaporation," says
Mariana Yudin Portugalis, the development director of PORTCARE COSMETICS
.
"In winter, there is a decrease in humidity and together with the effect of home heating, manifestations of redness, dry skin, itching and pimples may appear on the skin. The epidermal barrier layer, which is made up of keratin, ceramide fats, essential fatty acids, cholesterol and intercellular material, is damaged in winter and exposed to more damage. This layer is in terms of a boundary that allows control of water loss, and it is also important as a protection against the external environment, since on the one hand it is tough and on the other hand it is flexible, as long as it is moist. If the water content in it drops below 10%, it becomes dry, less flexible and prone to breakage and infection. When the skin is dry, it is constantly thirsty and has difficulty functioning properly."
Moisturizers and nutrients: Alona Shechter, La Prairie, Celaria, Yovne, Lirac Paris/PR
Without a choice, we have to replenish the stock of spices.
It is advisable to try a measured amount of nourishing product directly on clean facial skin, and not on the back of the hand, as is customary.
Although many preparations have a pleasant aroma and texture, this does not guarantee an effective deodorant.
According to Pantanovich, the winter skin care products contain unique ingredients, chief among them humectant ingredients.
These are substances that prevent dryness, trap and store water from around the skin and allow it to store moisture.
"Popular in this sector is glycerin, which belongs to a type of hydration materials known as 'moisture absorbents' and are known for their ability to attract moisture and retain it," she says.
Other popular Humectant ingredients: aloe vera and honey.
The latter has proven antibiotic properties and is therefore considered a rich and nourishing ingredient for dry, cracked and injured skin.
Beside them, emollient ingredients, chief among them ceramides, which are substances that soften and moisturize the skin, maintaining its smoothness and
elasticity
. : "They also bind the membranes to the proteinaceous component of the cell wall, and due to their central role in maintaining the skin's moisture and preventing the fluid from leaving it, are incorporated into many cosmetic preparations."
Image of serums: Pro-collagen restorer - Elmis. Stem cells - Dr. Monica Allman. Ward Prai - Grandma Jamila. Elixir - Maskamey. KINNICKI - Essence (Dr. Marina Landau). PR
Serums: Elmis, Dr. Monica Allman, Grandma Jamila, Maskamey, Dr. Marina Landau's essence/PR
Another group is sealing materials to prevent water from evaporating from the skin.
"These are ingredients whose role is to protect against the loss of moisture from the skin, and to help protect against environmental toxins," Grace Cohen adds, noting that one of them is squalene.
In the past, they produced squalane oil for cosmetic application from shark liver, so that it would support the natural squalane.
This oil contains antioxidants to balance the body in its fight against free radicals and even contributes to strengthening the immune system, but the production of a ton of squalane requires the killing of about 3,000 sharks.
In recent years, a vegetable alternative called "phyto-squalene" has been produced (from rice bran, wheat germ, palm oil, but mainly from olive and jojoba oil).
"The plant material is similar to animal squalene and has properties that contribute to strengthening the immune system and functions as an anti-inflammatory agent," concludes Grace Cohen.
Another component, sulfate-polysaccharides (polysaccharide) extracted from the "gracilaria" algae, which creates a breathable layer on the skin, which increases the increase of moisture from the body to the skin and prevents water evaporation.
"It is a superior red seaweed that originates in the Eastern Mediterranean, from which a unique blue-white synergistic gel is produced, intended for use in treatment, care and healing preparations for a wide range of skin problems," adds Yudine Portugalis.
Shower in winter: did you know?
Tap water can be harmful to the skin/Courtesy of Cefter International
did you know
Tap water may harm the skin
The water in Israel is "hard water" that contains a high amount of dissolved minerals that originate from the soil and are not supposed to reach the skin, certainly not in the amounts found in tap water.
When these minerals meet the skin in a hot shower, the pores of the skin open up and are forced to absorb the unwanted substances.
The results - dry, flaky and itchy skin.
In addition, the conventional soaps are not adapted to Israeli water.
They contain detergents, aggressive active substances whose function is to dissolve fat and dirt.
When the detergent meets "hard water", it effectively breaks down the metals in the water, and thus they penetrate the pores, dissolve the essential fats and raise the pH level of the skin.
To prevent this, you can use the double purification system of the Lotus shower head from the Swiss house Cefter, which corrects the negative effect of the hard water and makes it soft.
The said water softener removes dirt, heavy metals and rust and makes the water clean and soft.
In addition, the filter contains vitamin C which nourishes the skin and gives it a glowing appearance after the shower.
Also, it is important to prioritize "clean" and rich cleansers in the winter, and to avoid washing the skin with too hot water as much as possible.
Detergents: Kilis, La Roche-Posay, Payo, Katrina, Lavender/PR
"It is recommended to use a face milk or micellar," says
Liz Bismuth, the chief instructor at PAYOT
and adds: "For those who do not give up the feeling of cleansing with water, it is recommended to use a soap-free lotion or a body wash."
"Try to keep the water temperature lukewarm. Hot water removes the natural fat layer, allows the moisture to escape and contributes to dryness," says
Ido Mashal, chemist of the Lavender brand.
Instead of immediately entering a boiling shower, try to warm up your body first;
Drink a cup of steaming tea, try a little exercise or warm up under the sheet - and only then take a shower.
This will reduce the need to use hot water and you can settle for lukewarm, which will protect the skin better.
As mentioned, the water and soap remove the dirt, but also the natural layer of fat in the skin.
Prolonged showers are not good for the skin, so the recommended time for a shower in winter is about four minutes.
In addition, and contrary to popular opinion - water does not add moisture to the skin but dries it out.
"Most cleansers contain water and salts, so they also contribute to drying the skin," adds Mashal.
"It is recommended to clean the skin with natural products based on oils that allow cleaning without leaving the skin dry."
Body lotion: Dr. Fisher, Reborn, Mei Shemen, Shiseido, Carline/PR
Caution, winter: this is how you will protect your skin in the rainy season
Warm and cozy, without exaggerating.
It is important to keep the body warm so that it remains vital and healthy and to stimulate blood circulation, but do so in moderation.
"The air conditioners do heat, but at the same time they create a shortage of fresh oxygen and an excess of carbon dioxide, which dries the air and damages the skin, so when you help with the heating it is recommended to also use a humidifier to maintain the humidity in the room," says
Alia Chai, the instructor at "NEAUVIA ISRAEL.
"A heating sheet in the bed, a heat diffuser/stove can cause cracks in the skin and hair," says
Dr. Monica Allman, an expert in dermatology and sexual medicine and the medical director at Maccabi Aesthetics
.
"In order to minimize the damage, the skin must be enriched with moisture. One of the ways to do this is by using a serum, a preparation concentrated in active substances, such as antioxidants and peptides, whose role is to infuse moisture into the skin. The use of serum is important for increasing the moisture, and on top of it a cream must be added to seal the skin and improve its results ".
slugging, ideal for the season.
The term "slogging" originates in South Korea and means "snail", because of the appearance obtained after applying Vaseline to the entire face, and not as is customary only to the lips. The purpose of slogging is to create a seal that will make it easier for the skin to keep the water from being released.
"Ointments like Vaseline contain Ingredients that seal the skin, prevent water loss and help damaged skin repair itself," notes
Dr. Yehoshua Zeichner, director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York
.
"In the case of dry skin, you can also benefit from applying Vaseline to the entire face, especially for those who are prone to eczema or cracked skin."
However, he advises those with oily skin to avoid using Vaseline on their face, because the absorption of the ingredients can worsen active pimples or increase oiliness.
"It is better not to use Vaseline on the face at night continuously, because then the normal function of the skin may go wrong. When the skin is permanently sealed, a situation arises in which there is too much water retained in the skin and the blocking becomes less and less effective."
Balm products: Vaseline, Morz, Skara, Gigi, Nevea/PR
Do not lick your lips.
The lips are particularly sensitive because they are covered with mucous and do not have an active epidermal barrier that protects against moisture loss.
In addition, the saliva contains salts and contributes to their increased drying.
Therefore, you should avoid licking your lips and using lipsticks that contain mint or alcohol.
These, even if they produce a soothing sensation, lead to severe dryness.
Additional components outside the scope: phenol, camphor and lipsticks with scent additives.
The easiest way to relieve dry lips is to apply a special balm or glycerin throughout the day.
lying sun
It is very important to apply sunscreen even in winter.
It's true that it's cloudy and rainy, but don't let the weather fool you.
The amount of UV rays does not decrease significantly and you should be especially careful about exposure to the sun during ski vacations in the mountain peaks.
The sun is a liar.
It is very important to apply sunscreen even in winter.
Opens for a winter article/freepik
break the tension
The stress typical of modern life demands a high price from us.
Since the skin is the largest sensory organ, stress also affects it.
Skin under stress "works" overtime, and suffers from excessive wear.
The stress damages the production of the components of the skin's defense mechanisms (hyaluronic acid, linoleic acid, amino acids and fatty acids), and weakens the activity of the epidermal barrier, whose role is to maintain moisture and prevent water evaporation.
Since the October 7th and the war that broke out in its wake, we all experience a state of "continuous stress" that makes the skin more reactive and makes it difficult to heal various symptoms.
Prolonged stress also speeds up the body's metabolic rate and tires it out.
Accelerated fluid secretion disrupts the body's heat regulation and sometimes under stressful conditions, the feet or palms freeze while the cheeks heat up.
Stress can lead to flare-ups of various symptoms (psoriasis, eczema, atopic, etc.).
Sometimes, the skin is still calm and cool, but the results of the internal sensation will be felt later, and should be seen as a marker of a decrease in the activity of the epidermal barrier.
"In winter, a skin care routine based on adding daily moisture is no longer enough, but requires the involvement of products with an intensive ingredient complex to protect, disinfect and cure skin problems, such as a combination of herbs such as myrrh and frankincense, as an alternative to steroids and cortisones," says
Alona Schechter, owner of a brand that carries the her name.
Vitamin C: L'Oreal Paris, Garnier, Vichy, Advanced Clinicals, Dr. Michael Babor/PR
To maintain good hydration and help soothe the skin from ongoing stress, it is important to choose products enriched with antioxidants, anti-oxidants, anti-inflammatory ingredients and probiotic ingredients, including vitamins.
"Vitamin C is cosmetically effective. It manages to penetrate the skin barrier and reduce oxidative damage, improves the skin's appearance and elasticity, and helps prevent future damage," says Avital Sadeh, instructor of Babor brands, and PHformula "Vitamin C or ascorbic acid by its other name, Encourages collagen production in the skin, contributes to skin moisture, functions as an anti-inflammatory and antioxidant, thereby reducing free radical damage and helping to maintain the skin's natural level of resilience. When the skin of the face is subjected to external environmental pressures (changing weather) or internal (stress), the level of resilience It becomes more vulnerable, so it is recommended to use products with high concentrations of vitamin C, with an emphasis on a vitamin from a stable derivative."
"Winter is considered the ultimate time for restoring summer damage and lightening treatments, and is also used for more invasive and aggressive treatments (exfoliation, for example). The absence of the strong sun rays makes it possible to introduce more active and powerful substances into the skin care routine, which we avoided in the summer, because they raise the skin's sensitivity to the sun," she says
Or Fox, from the owners of the Hikari Laboratories brand.
Restoration of the epidermal barrier: Hikari, Majirai, PURE (Kubi Baruch), Jade, Dr. Lahvit Akerman/PR
But the stress that has accompanied us for four months weakened and still weakens the skin's immune system, ignites inflammatory factors secreted by the skin and accelerates disease processes that previously appeared in a milder form.
"Mental and prolonged stressful situations have consequences on the skin and its condition, such as the appearance of pimples, dryness and various skin diseases. When the skin is unhealthy, injured and irritated, it is forbidden to use preparations containing acids of any kind, as these may worsen the situation instead of relieving it. In such cases there are First focus on restoring the skin and bringing it to a balanced state using soothing ingredients, and vitamins and minerals (depending on the diagnosis of the problem) and only then return to using the various acids," Fox adds.
"The effect of mental stress goes beyond the realm of our mental well-being, and also extends to the skin," says
Dr. Marina Landau, dermatologist and expert in aesthetic dermatology.
"Chronic stress causes hormonal changes, including an increase in cortisol levels, which can wreak havoc on the skin.
Its high levels cause the development of inflammation in the skin, which may lead to acne, eczema and psoriasis conditions.
Moreover, stress damages the skin's ability to regenerate and repair itself, accelerates its aging process and accelerates the activity of collagenase, an enzyme that breaks down collagen and is responsible for skin elasticity.
Stress also damages the skin's natural barrier, making it more sensitive to environmental aggression.
The first protective layer is the epidermal barrier.
This is the outermost layer of the skin, consisting mostly of keratinocyte cells and among them - fatty acids.
This barrier is responsible for protecting the skin from the outside (penetration of pests: allergens, free radicals and even some of the sun's radiation) and from the inside (evaporation of important substances from the skin to the outside - for example moisture).
The weather conditions and the extreme dryness in winter affect the skin more strongly, because the skin barrier is already damaged and vulnerable due to the feeling of continuous tension.
In order to support the epidermal barrier, one must do two things: adopt a skincare routine with specific materials to restore the epidermal barrier and use moisture rich in biomimetic lipids (mimicking the chemical structure of the skin)". Unlike previous winters, it
seems that the current winter is less suitable for aggressive skin treatments due to a damaged epidermal barrier "The success levels of treatments on such skin will be lower, and the risk of unwanted side effects (eg post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) increases.
Until the epidermal barrier is restored and restored, stay with support and hydration treatments, incorporate stress management techniques into your daily routine, such as exercise and adequate sleep.
Remember that achieving a harmonious balance not only promotes mental well-being, but also contributes to glowing and healthy skin, and allows the skin to thrive despite life's challenges," concludes Dr. Landau.
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