08/02/2021 18:09
Clarín.com
sports
Updated 08/02/2021 18:09
Sport climbing will make its debut as an Olympic sport at these Olympic Games in Tokyo 2020
, and in addition to having three different disciplines, it
will have an element of surprise
that will seek to keep the competition level.
Valentina Aguado, the Argentine representative in sport climbing at the 2018 Youth Olympic Games. Photography: German Garcia Adrasti
This sport already had its first brush with Olympism at the Buenos Aires Youth Olympic Games, held in 2018. This event consisted of the men's combined event and the women's combined event.
This format is similar to the one that will be used in these Olympic Games, since the winners will be determined by a sum corresponding to their performance in the three disciplines.
One event, three disciplines
At the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games, climbing will have three disciplines: lead, boulder, and speed
.
The curious thing, which also represents a surprising element, is that in these first two disciplines the participants will not be able to see the wall until the moment before competing.
This with the aim that climbers discover the most efficient route with the added difficulty of not being able to train or warm up on the walls.
In the case of the lead discipline, in this the competitors will have a period of observation and analysis of 6 minutes, where they can find the most appropriate route.
After this, they will have another 6 minutes to climb the 15-meter wall and get as high as possible.
The Japanese Keita Dohi, competing in the finals of the so-called lead event during the 2018 Youth Olympic Games. Photo: Lukas Schulze / AFP
On the other hand, the boullder consists of a circuit composed of 4 sequences, which are made up of 4.5-meter walls.
Competitors will have five minutes to pass these sequences, and they will only be able to use their 6 minutes to observe the terrain prior to the final, and not in the qualifying rounds.
Precisely in the final, the participants must complete the circuit in just 4 minutes.
A third discipline is added to this discipline, called speed climbing, which generated much controversy from its addition.
In this test, which was added to the Olympic event in search of a more colorful and not so technical discipline, the competitors must climb a 15-meter wall from a standardized route, and in the shortest possible time.
“This is a unique moment in history for all of humanity, the Opening Ceremony reflected the times we are living in: it was touching.
Now the stage is for the athletes, and we can't wait for the debut of Sport Climbing! ”
🔗 https://t.co/5nynZH72gv#StrongerTogether #ClimbToTokyo pic.twitter.com/99Z3iCAIWH
- International Federation of Sport Climbing (@ifsclimbing) July 23, 2021
In order that the athletes do not benefit from the decisions of their rivals when climbing the wall, the climbers go to an isolation room after the observation period.
Those who advance to the final will compete again the next day.
For the finals the walls will be the same, but there will be changes in the anchors that make it up.
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