It was without a doubt the most anticipated show of this London season - indeed of this season at all: the debut of the Briton Daniel Lee at the head of the Briton Burberry.
Appointed in September to succeed Riccardo Tisci, whose aesthetic between gothic and streetwear has not always convinced observers, Lee is a designer on the road to redemption.
In 2021, the former right arm of Phoebe Philo at Céline who had become the maestro of Bottega Veneta left the Milanese label with losses and a crash.
This did not fail to fuel the rumours.
He was then said to be difficult, capricious, demanding... His appointment, so quickly after his disgrace and at the head of such a prestigious house, had surprised more than one.
But two weeks ago, the airing of his first campaign,
featuring actress Vanessa Redgrave, footballer Raheem Sterling and rapper Skepta (British personalities from different backgrounds), and presenting a "new" logo from the archives, the Burberry knight, foreshadowed a happy return to basics for the 'institution.
The perfect antidote, after the passage of a Tisci that the English have always considered too Italian...
Stormzy and Damon Albarn, Jason Statham, Korean Tottenham footballer Son Heung-min in the front row
See you, therefore, this Monday evening, in a tent erected in the heart of a garden in south London.
Inside, the approximately 500 guests, including many local (and international) stars - singers Stormzy and Damon Albarn, actor Jason Statham, Korean Tottenham footballer Son Heung-min, and even artistic director Christopher Bailey and CEO of Burberry until 2018 - take place on Burberry tartan plaids, with matching hot water bottles.
Waiters pass the tray laden with hot toddies, a kind of whiskey grog.
On the benches, the game of predictions is going well.
And most guests expect Lee to explore great British classics and a contemporary take on the trench coat.
But from the first look, a long dark green coat with a (faux) fur collar and tartan hot water bottle under his arm, we understand that the native of Bradford did not choose the obvious.
What has built his reputation as a designer is his ability to offer rather radical fashion but with bright colors and photogenic accessories that meet the expectations of new generations.
We never get over it: there are in these huge chapkas, these large shoulder bags with animal details (faux fur, kinds of foxtails), these leather pouches like roses and this very flashy blue ubiquitous, a desire to offer Burberry the same kind of hits that he had introduced at Bottega Veneta.
More than trench coats (only a handful in the collection), it
Sharing the podium, men with comfortable figures and a nonchalant attitude (loose pants with hiking-inspired details, boxy leather jackets, gigantic duffle coats without hoods) cross paths with young women, in an almost grunge mood with their neokilts and their mixes of prints (overlays of tartans, duck pattern, recurring in the collection).
“
For me, the intrinsically British brand is necessarily associated with rain, outdoors and therefore functionality
,” explains Daniel Lee backstage.
But I also wanted a little humor, hence these ducks, a very English animal.
We are also fortunate to have a very rich history, and the archives were essential to my way of conceiving this collection.
Another house emblem, the gabardine of the trench coat is used in an oiled version on slightly offset jackets, which are very successful.
On the feet, fake hairy Wallabees, rain boots in pop colors and all-terrain shoes should soon find their audience, especially among influencers...
But if Burberry introduces a new identity here, it is not always easy to grasp its contours.
Like the faux fur bathrobes (neither functional nor really British), this loose coat stitched with colored feathers, or even this series of 90s merchandising-style rock T-shirts, adorned with roses and messages like “
change is inevitable
” or “
a rose is not always red
”, loaded, very loaded.
Whatever, the finale takes place under the applause provided by the public and on the soundtrack signed by the legendary London producer Burial.
"
I wanted to convey a positive idea of England
," adds the artistic director.
There is so much creativity in London - Vivienne Westwood was the best example.
This city is unique, and that's why I'm very happy to come back.
I find constant inspiration there.
This first version of Burberry à la Lee is not lacking.
