As of: February 5, 2024, 4:45 p.m
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After icy nights, drivers with a weak starter battery often have to wait a long time for breakdown assistance.
In many cases, you can easily fix the problem yourself.
In winter, drivers struggle with a variety of adversities: icy windows, frozen doors - but often also with weak starter batteries.
Significant drops in temperature, like this year, take a toll on the 12-volt batteries responsible for starting the engine.
Low temperatures have a negative impact on the chemical processes inside the battery, and the power storage units are often subject to greater demands than usual due to additional consumers such as lights, heated seats and windshield wipers (which also tend to freeze).
This is why starter batteries often fail on frosty days.
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A so-called start booster can also provide energy to start the engine
If the battery fails, you don't necessarily have to call roadside assistance.
Affected drivers can also help themselves by connecting an additional power source to the affected vehicle and thus giving themselves a jump start.
A simple option is to use a jump start device (also called a start booster).
Previously, these had to be connected to a 230-volt socket in order to then supply the starter battery with 12 volts.
A start booster is now usually a power bank that, thanks to the integrated battery, can supply the energy to start the engine independently of a household socket.
These devices can be easily clamped to the appropriate poles of the broken down vehicle using their clamps.
As a rule, the car should then start.
Jumper cables: Drivers should pay attention to the correct standard
If you don't have a jump starter at hand, you can alternatively try to tap into power from another vehicle using a jumper cable.
This requires a jumper cable and a second vehicle that can also supply electricity.
The jumper cable should be properly sized and insulated.
You are on the safe side if it has the DIN standard 72.553 or the ISO standard 6722.
Drivers should keep a few things in mind when bridging the battery.
(Symbolic image) © Panthermedia/Imago
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Before wiring: Park cars so that the poles of the vehicles can be connected
First, both vehicles must be parked in such a way that the poles of both vehicles can be connected with the available length of starter cable.
Here it makes sense to first look at where the connections are in the vehicle.
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Then, with the ignitions switched off, the positive poles on both vehicles are linked, which are usually indicated by plus signs and a red protective cover.
The black cable clamp is then attached to the negative pole or the specified ground point of the auxiliary vehicle.
Negative poles can be recognized by the color black and the minus sign.
The other end of the negative cable goes to the specified ground connection or ground point of the broken down car (see operating instructions) or to a free metallic spot in the engine compartment.
The black cable should not be connected to the battery if the car has broken down - otherwise there is a risk of sparks flying.
After connecting the cables: First start the engine of the donor car
Once both vehicles are wired, the engine of the donor car is started first.
If the donor vehicle is an electric car, it should also be started so that the traction battery can supply power to the usually small 12-volt battery.
Then it's the turn of the broken down car.
In order to avoid voltage peaks, consumers such as fans, ventilation and lights are first deactivated.
If the engine of the broken down car doesn't start immediately, try again after a few seconds.
If nothing happens, it's a good idea to check the connections to make sure that current can actually flow from contact to contact.
If the starter works but the engine of the broken down vehicle does not start, there are probably other reasons preventing it from starting.
Caution: Several unsuccessful attempts to start the engine could damage the catalytic converter in gasoline engines, for example, causing expensive consequential damage.
It should be over after three attempts at the latest.
If the three attempts are not enough, a breakdown service or the workshop will be contacted.
Let vehicles run for a while while wired
If the starter turns and the engine starts, you first let both vehicles run for a while in the wired state.
Now electrical consumers in the newly broken down car, such as the blower, rear window heater or air conditioning, should be switched on.
This avoids any voltage peaks when removing the contacts, which could potentially damage sensitive control devices.
After a few minutes with the engines running, the terminals are removed in reverse order.
This means that first the black clamp is released from the broken down vehicle, then the other black one from the negative pole of the auxiliary vehicle.
Then you disconnect the red clamp on the “reanimated” vehicle, then the other one.
The broken down car is then taken on a longer journey so that the on-board battery can be recharged.
You should plan at least 20 minutes.
Electrical consumers can be switched off again.
However, if the battery malfunctions again the next time you start it, replacing it usually only helps.
But be careful: under no circumstances should an old car battery end up in household waste.
But if you buy a new one, you can hand in the removed battery to the workshop or dealer.
(Mario Hommen/SP-X)