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Fashion Week in Milan: The catwalk as a running route

2022-02-24T16:47:54.242Z


The fashion week is back in Milan: sometimes with a lot, sometimes with little fabric, the designers show their designs on running models and with references to the tradition of their houses. An overview of the first shows.


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Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have shared the creative direction at Prada for almost two years now.

The collaboration seems to be working well: the collections rarely seem random, rather the influences of the Italian and the Belgian complement each other.

Here: a narrow mouse-grey skirt with an oversized blazer with an androgynous touch.

Photo: Daniele Venturelli/WireImage/Getty Images

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Also typical of Prada: a wild mix of materials and patterns that initially appears diffuse and yet encourages imitation.

Because Miuccia Prada has remained true to this concept for decades, she even created her own style with it: the so-called »ugly chic«.

Photo: Daniele Venturelli/WireImage/Getty Images

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Flowing fabrics in pastel colors met pencil skirts and blazers at Fendi this season.

Chief designer Kim Jones found inspiration in the fashion archives: The basis was the spring/summer collection by Fendi from 1986 and the spring/summer collection by Karl Lagerfeld 2000.

Photo: Pietro D`Aprano / Getty Images

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The references were no coincidence.

Before Kim Jones (left) took over the creative direction for the women's collections at Fendi in 2020, Karl Lagerfeld was responsible for the designs, together with Silvia Venturini Fendi (here on the right).

The granddaughter of the founder Edoardo Fendi now only takes care of the men's line.

Nevertheless, she accepted the applause after the show together with Jones.

Photo: Pietro D`Aprano / Getty Images

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Last June Glenn Martens released his first collection for Diesel, digital due to the pandemic.

Now the Belgian designer was able to present his work in front of an audience for the first time.

That's why Martens was so excited: next to and above the catwalk, huge inflatable dolls lolled in Diesel T-shirts and pants.

In the autumn/winter collection, the designer also played with sizes: is this model wearing a very small skirt or a very wide belt?

Photo: Estrop/Getty Images

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Otherwise, Martens remained true to his trademark: He showed denim in every form - like layered, draped and shredded.

Photo: Estrop/Getty Images

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The Italian designer Fausto Puglisi showed what the wardrobe for the parties after the pandemic could look like at Roberto Cavalli.

Leather and leopard print ran through the presentation – and of course plenty of bare skin.

Photo: Andreas Rentz / Getty Images

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As a contrast to the going-out wardrobe, Puglisi presented heavy coats and knee-length pleated skirts.

The label even enlisted the help of the British Queen's tartan designer for the pattern.

Photo: Andreas Rentz / Getty Images

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The Max Mara collection showed just how multifaceted camel hair can be.

The Italian label is known for its beige coats.

In the new collection, head designer Laura Lusuardi interpreted the material, for example, as a flared maxi skirt.

Photo: Estrop/Getty Images

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The Italian Lusuardi has been responsible for the main collection of Max Mara since 1964 (!).

She remained true to her line in the remaining designs: Calm and monochrome designs in which the models could walk straight from the catwalk into the office.

Photo: Andreas Rentz / Getty Images

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Endurance was required for Sunnei.

The show took place outside, a sidewalk in front of a graffiti-smeared wall served as a catwalk.

The models ran along these instead of walking as usual.

The presentation was over all the faster – an advantage for the viewers after the show had started a good half hour late.

Photo: Estrop/Getty Images

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Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina, the designers behind Sunnei, see themselves as avant-gardists in the tradition-conscious Italian fashion industry.

In their collection for the coming autumn, they therefore paired classic designs with eye-catching accessories and form-fitting silhouettes that naturally fluttered perfectly when you walked.

Photo: Estrop/Getty Images

Source: spiegel

All business articles on 2022-02-24

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