When a few months ago Olivier Rousteing orchestrated the anniversary show which celebrated his decade at the head of Balmain, those who saw him grow from the shadow of Christophe Decarnin to the designer he is today were able to see how much he had infused his own DNA into the claw.
And in particular his passion for jewelry, which he has always brilliantly applied to
custom jewelry
by reproducing the series of rings that he himself wears on all his fingers, declining the links he loves so much in bustier, stylish cuffs or in shoe loops.
Despite this precious obsession, he had never yet transformed the test from gilded metal to pure gold.
His only foray into the world of jewelry will remain the delicate homage he had signed to Elizabeth Taylor's Fabergé eggs by reproducing this beaded motif on one of his signature dresses.
So how was he able to make this leap into the unknown?
Thanks to a welcome meeting...
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Balmain fine jewelry in 10 pieces
In images, in pictures
See the slideshow10 photos
See the slideshow10 photos
Offering brands wishing to embark on the jewelry adventure a project and concrete help is precisely the objective of the very young company Adorisa.
At its head, François Delage, former president of De Beers, and other insiders that we have known at Boucheron or at other brands with a view to Place Vendôme who have seen a good number of fashion/jewelry attempts go under their eyes and have things to complain about.
"We have four very specific roles, to create, produce, distribute and market the future line", François Delage immediately specifies when we meet him in the offices of Balmain a few weeks ago.
A desired location because for him a project of this magnitude is conceived with four hands: “We are backstage, only there to translate the vision of the creator who does not have the keys to this very codified sector.
For us it has nothing to do with a license, even if technically it is.
We see ourselves more as a jewelry department in its own right.
A co-creation that immediately sparked since Olivier Rousteing took a passion for the project, multiplying the round trips with the teams, in the French workshops and getting involved down to the detail of the packaging, in the essential chic.
The result ?
A series of two very distinct collections comprising 22 references, which oscillate between 1,500 and 22,000 euros.
With the red thread, or rather gold, the logo and the visual signatures of Balmain, recently put back into orbit by Olivier Rousteing in the midst of a wave of logomania.
perfect chords
Full screen
The Emblem necklace, convertible into a brooch.
Balmain / Photo press
In total, a year of hard work will have passed between the first drawings and the birth of these Emblem or Labyrinth signet rings, already on the finger of the creator.
Among the latter, the Emblem necklace required special attention, both in the work of the chain and in the design of a transformable adornment.
In the purest Parisian jewelry tradition.
Once the range is distributed in stores (first in the one on rue Saint Honoré on June 28 and then on the e-shop on July 5)?
Adorisa will continue to orchestrate cast and promotion behind the scenes before possibly signing another creative duo.
But in this game, candidates are rare, as François Delage points out: “Not all brands are suitable for it.
You need a strong, legitimate DNA”.
So who will be the next elected?
Rather jewelry or fine jewelry this time?
The answer should come in just a few months.
