The rhythm of miracles Segev recognizes in the mouth and mind of every self-respecting carnivore • Our reporter, who admires the butcher for many years, excitedly reviewed his boutique burger delivery and returned with insights

• The fries issue didn't hurt our enjoyment

  Photo: 

  Amit Segev

This argument is almost as old as the egg and chicken: do the raw materials make the dish, or the hand that makes them? Obviously, the ideal is both, and for that matter sharpened: does an expert butcher who decides to open a burger close to his butcher have an inherent advantage over a chef who doesn't break the cow with his own hands?

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Jerusalem also has its own Segev and it is not Moshe. The butchery of miracles Segev in Talpiot has long become something of a town. Self-respecting carnivores, chefs and those who appreciate good meat learned to know Segev's butchery, which is hidden at the entrance to the Sam Spiegel movie theater in the Talpiot industrial area. The Jerusalem Segev has a large and loyal clientele, who will not think about laying down meat that does not come from the rhythm of filming. About two years ago, Segev decided to open a boutique burger alongside her butchery, with the emphasis on quality meats carefully selected by him, from butchery to school. The blossom of the hamburger industry in Israel did not miss Jerusalem, and more or less premium hamburger chains opened in the city, causing fierce competition in the field of meatball. Does the butcher's hamburger from Talpiot give them to Fayette? I would say "we went out to check," but in the spirit of those days - we waited for the messenger.

Let's start with the base, the bun. Seemingly the least important ingredient in the dish, but in fact it is the foundation on which everything rests, and Sam Spiegel also knows: Without a good script, Cast won't be the most successful cast. Segev's bun is made for him by a special order from Berman's Bakery in the city, and she performs her role perfectly: even after an hour and a half of eating hot potatoes and vegetables at a hot Jerusalem afternoon, she is not absorbed in the liquid, and remains upright and buttocks, almost as soon as she left the bartender's oven. Its texture is accurate and holds the mountains of protein and vegetables proudly, which is impossible to say about rolls of more industrial burger chains, without naming them, which after a minute also become a kind of bread patty. The Segev logo emblazoned on the burnt bun is a nice gimmick, especially for the younger generation who feels that it has received a "branded" hamburger.

We opened the big crawl with the most corrupt burger, "indulgent Segev" - with goose liver, onion jam, green leaves and tomato. The goose liver was generously placed on the meatloaf, and its taste immediately burst into the palate. The teenager took a small bite, wiped the scraps off her chin and grimaced. "What is it?", She asked with eyes narrowed suspiciously. "It's a foie gras," I told her. "Not tasty at all - give everything to Dad." Half-eared I heard the just explain something about livers and geese, but it didn't really interest me at that moment: there were forced connections (my signature?) And there were natural connections. Goose liver with a hamburger belongs to the other type, and I'm sorry about Niles's pet. perfect.

We continued with "Smoked Segev" - smoked goose breast, egg, lettuce, tomato and purple onion. Here, too, the connection between the cutlet and the smoked sausage just works well, and unlike the "pampering" - the young ones also got together for taste. Here, too, I began to delve more into the meatball itself: thick and fleshy, and with a little fat. Some prefer their hamburger with a higher percentage of fat, which gives a "wet" texture to the meat. I respect that, but in this case I tend to agree with Segev's meaty truth: high-quality meat that is used to good accuracy doesn't need a lot of fat. 

Next in line was "Smash Burger", a particularly large net burger with no "scales": large patty, garlic sauce, aioli, rocket and purple onion. The children enjoyed themselves, and the woman became enthralled: "This is how it should be a burger, without all these weird extras." I wanted to make a comment about her not-too-complete facial skin, but luckily I had a mouth full of meat.

I kept the final dish in Segev's special round to the end, because "on paper" it had promising data: "edgy Segg" with spicy hot dog sausage, egg, arisa, mayonnaise and garlic. In practice, it was just too much. Even when I tried to force the jaw muscles into a particularly wide opening of the hippo (I already have my stomach) - I couldn't get all the construction between my teeth. In addition, the slightly harsh texture of the annoying sausage refused to align with the soft cut, and the sausage dispersed in all directions like a center party.

Finally I surrendered: I took the sausage out of the bun and ate with the "separate and govern" method - bite from the hamburger, bite from the sausage. Everything together was delicious, Harissa added a touch of oriental to the dish and all in all blended in - but not in a pre-designated way. I might have cut the annoyance for longer and thinner sections, though it would probably hurt its slightly stiff coating and final texture. Sometimes you have to compromise.

A word about the chips. I have no complaints for the restaurant itself - neither Segev nor anyone else was able to find the mechanism that would prevent the chips from losing its crispiness after more than five minutes, namely shipping. Sometimes I think to myself: You might just send the frozen fries, I'll fry at home ... Segev's fries were very good - when he came out of the boiling oil. At home, he became the custom of rapidly aging chips in mashed potatoes. The sweet potato fries on the other hand did not lose texture and was very tasty. The sauces were plentiful, although due to the excellent combinations of hamburger they remained almost orphaned.

Prices: hamburger - 37-69, depending on type, fries, sweet potato fries and onion rings - 18, chicken salad - 39, entrecote portion 200 g (not sampled) - 80 

Segev

Hand

Diligent Burger  , 4 Jerusalem  02-5017170