Bettina Müller from Ohlstadt set off on a trip to Morocco in November 2019. In the converted fire brigade truck. Then Corona came. Müller decided to stay for the time of the pandemic. She describes her life time in the country that is almost standing still.
Bettina Müller expected an adventure. But not with this.
© Thomas Very
Ohlstadt - Bettina Müller wanted to stay in Morocco for four months. In November 2019, she set out in Ohlstadt with her old, self-converted fire truck. Thousands of kilometers - forwards and backwards when the mountain road was again too narrow for two vehicles and they gave way - countless adventures and encounters lay ahead of the 56-year-old. She had no idea that the greatest adventure would wait when the trip was over. It was called Corona. Bettina Müller is experiencing the pandemic in a country where life stands still. In a place where she feels safe and secure. And is by no means alone.
"I am enthusiastic about the Moroccan people. Friendly, always helpful and open-minded ”
If I allow myself the thought for a moment, I feel: Yes, I would like to be in Ohlstadt. At home. But I don't think about what I would prefer. In the end, I voluntarily decided to stay in Morocco until this pandemic is over. Because I didn't want to leave my Moroccan foundling dog and my truck behind.
I drove 12,000 kilometers all over this fascinating country, along the beautiful coast, up to 3,000 meters, crossed dunes and huge forests. I met many travelers and locals. And: I am enthusiastic about the Moroccan people. Friendly, always helpful and open-minded. That's how I experience it now, in this global crisis.
"Suddenly everything went very quickly": The first ferries canceled, air traffic stopped
I read the first information about Covid-19 online. I don't have radio or television. Suddenly everything went very quickly. The first ferries to Italy were canceled, air traffic was discontinued, soon ferry traffic. Within a week there was an airlift to Europe, tourists were asked to be in the major airports. Not an option for me, but for some at the campsite. I brought a family with a small child, a couple and an elderly couple to the airport. The young family left their motorhome at the campsite. I was alone.
On March 20th came the complete curfew, the country's shutdown. Only the most important trips such as to the pharmacy, to the doctor, to shopping are allowed. Everything else is prohibited, including travel through the country. Police and military control closely. No progress without a pass. Without mouth protection on the street - imprisonment. The government has even taken all the homeless off the streets. Nobody should be outside anymore. I still had the time to go to Agadir, the campsite of a friend of my German-Moroccan couple. I was one of the last to arrive, after that the place was blocked for new arrivals.
Border closed: "Hundreds of campers in line that were not allowed to enter"
Many had left in panic, just north. At the closed border to Ceuta, the small Spanish part on Moroccan soil, there was chaos. Hundreds of campers in line that were not allowed to enter. The Moroccan government provided space, including water and free food, until a solution was found in cooperation with Europe. Two ferries were made available for the departure.
We also found out about this possibility. None of us used it. It was too uncertain whether one would get a place on one of the ferries - which, it turns out, was not even enough for the vehicles that were stranded at the port. 60 motorhomes - instead of the original 150 - with travelers from France, Holland, Belgium, Poland, Italy and Germany remained, together with the staff and the campsite operators. Many are regular guests and have been spending their winters on the square for years. You feel safe. Like me too. That's why we decided to stay.
Highest hygiene at the campsite: The staff disinfects almost around the clock
The place is closed and is completely supplied from the outside, the hygiene measures are high. There is a safety distance of two meters. The staff disinfects almost around the clock: the garbage cans, the dismantled toilet seat, all door and washing machine handles and much more. The restaurant is closed but offers takeaway food. In addition, a shop has been set up that offers everything important. A shopping service brings what is missing individually. I can say: I'm fine. The situation is critical, but everything is being done to provide tourists with good food. We do not experience any incidents or critical situations. There are worse things than a quarantine under the Moroccan sun. I will finish writing my book. And hope that everything goes well here and everywhere.
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