The first mental image that one can make of the Sierra de Irta is that of a sentinel tower between the beach and the sky.
An
extinguished stone
lighthouse
, of Muslim origin (it was built in 1554), circular and about 11 meters high.
It is the Badum watchtower, which perhaps better than any other (there are several) represents the feeling of plenitude that unfolds in this protected and little-known natural space in the extreme north of the province of Castellón.
enlarge photo cova fernández
Because its 13 kilometers of virgin coastline are contrary to those who think of an environment given over to brick and mass.
None of that appears here.
This is a coastal mountain range that combines routes through the interior with routes overlooking the sea, always without makeup, and where it is convenient to arrive without premeditation, but predisposed to the pleasure of walking and discovering beaches (Serradal, La Basseta, El Pebret ), stone and sand coves (Cubanita, Mundina), some dunes, cliffs and blue horizons.
Although the trails and views invite solitude and it is easy to get lost, here it is unlikely to find yourself alone, since it is estimated that some 80,000 trekking devotees visit this piece of Mediterranean coast located in the Bajo region each year. Maestrazgo, since July 2002 declared a natural park and marine nature reserve by the Government of the Valencian Community.
It reaches its maximum height at the Campanilles peak, at 572 meters, and its steep slopes slowly descend towards a crystalline sea with Menorcan tints and of great fishing and biological interest (there is an abundance of sea fennel and saladilla).
With the car ready to travel on dirt tracks, and the legs and the will of nature also ready, we carried out an undeniable exercise of disconnection.
From Peñíscola to the Badum tower
Two famous coastal municipalities surround the Sierra de Irta along the coast.
On the one hand, Peñíscola and, on the other, Alcossebre.
The first, classic postcard, needs little introduction;
It has everything to entertain the visitor (old town, Papa Luna castle, beaches ...) and it is always nice to come back, especially if it is to pay homage to
espardenyes
in restaurants such as Roca Platja (restaurantrocaplatja.com), on the edge from sea.
In the city is the Interpretation Center of the Serra d'Irta Natural Park (Avenida de la Estación, s / n; open Monday to Friday, from 10:00 to 14:00, and on weekends and holidays, from 9:30 to 14.30).
From Peñíscola it is not easy to reach the Badum tower, located about six kilometers away, a good place to start the itineraries on foot that can be seen from above.
This is one of those places that transmit serenity and balance: the sea, the sky, the light, the cliff, the reefs, the white paths between the pines…, everything is in its place.
It is said that the tower helped protect the town of Peñíscola from pirate attacks from the sea.
Like a relic anchored in a strategic location, this asset of cultural interest was built by stone masonry and without doors, only with a window six meters high.
On its façade, the coat of arms of the Kingdom of Valencia resists with the double-headed eagle of the Habsburgs, from the time of Carlos I.
The castle of Alcalà de Xivert, a fortification from Templars times, has exceptional views
A possible itinerary, suitable and simple (about 2.5 kilometers), is the one that leads to the Pebret dunes.
Beyond the beach d'Ull de Bou we follow the indicated route between typically Mediterranean flora, the smell of saltpeter and the noise of the sea in the background, which highlight and give meaning to expressions such as natural park or virgin mountains.
The fact that the dense vegetation practically accompanies the Mediterranean itself will be a constant throughout the entire march.
Heather, palm hearts, pines (holm oak), rosemary and thyme escort hikers to the coves.
Another way to get to know the natural park is inside.
One option is to drive to Alcalà de Xivert, where it is advisable to look for the directions to the castle.
Wrapped in pine trees, this vast fortification takes us back to Templars times.
The first link between the town and the order dates back to 1169. Today it is preserved as an example of a Muslim fortress adapted to the new needs of what the Templars called “castle-convent”.
As a whole it contains 8,000 square meters, which is plenty to contemplate the structural and material evolution.
It is worth observing the twin towers and the wall canvas that unites them.
The views are exceptional and draw the profile of a mountain range in which to enter through any of its generous paths.
In this interior, wandering among the lush surroundings, intuition and observation go hand in hand.
Step by step, evocative landscapes take on a scale, which over time will be a good refuge for memory.
Luxury is conspicuous by its absence, and it is not necessary.
Alcalà de Xivert is not far from another town to consider: Santa Magdalena de Pulpis.
enlarge photo A small cove in Alcossebre, in the heart of the Irta mountain range.
getty images
Alcossebre and Rita Lorite's lighthouse
Beyond and in the surroundings there are still coves, beaches, peaks like Campanilles, capes like Irta and towers like Ebrí to be discovered.
Everything to get where we started, but on the Alcossebre side, because there the Irta lighthouse refers us to the Badum tower and tells us about the passage of time through different conceptions of architecture.
This white lighthouse at the foot of the sea gives shade to the wonderful Mundina cove and exhibits rationalist reminiscences.
It was designed by Rita Lorite in the 1980s. And it is special because, among other things, together with Nules they are the only two lighthouses in Spain designed by women.
The union of sea and mountains is not only enjoyed on a landscape level, but also on a gastronomic level.
For this reason, you have to go yes or yes to celebrate the day at the Atalaya de Alcossebre restaurant (atalayarestaurante.com).
It is run by Alejandra Herrador and Emanuel Carlucci, two entrepreneurs with plenty of creativity who in 2019 received the award for promising young people from the Valencian community, in addition to the Bib Gourmand mention in the 2020 Michelin guide (which recognizes good kitchens at reasonable prices).
Not surprisingly, its tasting menus (Bergantín and Goleta) and its rice dishes, with great respect for tradition and native products, are one of those that enrich the stomach and memory.
Good taste made minimalist, meticulous and cosmopolitan cuisine.
Use Lahoz
is the author of the novel 'Jauja' (Destino publishing house).
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