Reasons to visit the Aeolian islands: the magnificent seven

MORE INFORMATION

• In the new guide 'Nearby Aeolian Islands', by Lonely Planet

There are still exotic corners in the Mediterranean, and they are not very far. Like the

Aeolian Islands

, which are only an hour north of Sicily by boat and are a spectacular archipelago. The seven 'sisters' of the Aeolian archipelago, declared

a world heritage site by UNESCO

, are a mixture of

history, nature, culture and gastronomy

. From the lively Lípari to the explosive Stromboli, passing through Vulcano, Salina, Panarea, Filicudi and Alicudi, these islands of volcanic origin gather surprises both along their coast bathed in a turquoise sea and in the interior, dominated by the colors and the perfumes of the Mediterranean vegetation.

The

Aeolians

are an exotic destination for both those looking for quiet beaches and for hikers, who find here a network of relatively easy footpaths.

But perhaps the best is the panoramic views.

On all the islands there are dozens of truly spectacular panoramic terraces and viewpoints, especially at sunset, when the sun's rays dye the sea red.

The Aeolias are easily reached from Sicily and from Naples and Calabria, by ferries or hydrofoils that also provide inter-island services.

The old and walled city of Lípari, the main enclave of the Italian island of the same name.

AMzPhoto getty images

Lipari

Among vineyards, viewpoints and extinct volcanoes

It is the largest of the Aeolian Islands, with

lush nature

, an interesting

archaeological museum

, a marina full of

bars

and

restaurants,

and

unforgettable sunsets

. But its true hallmarks are the

remains of extinct volcanoes

and the beautiful

stony beaches

of its rugged coastline.

The must-see is the walk up to the castle, which stands out from the top and is the heart of the island: inhabited since the Neolithic, it boasts impregnable 16th century walls and houses the formidable

Aeolian Archaeological Museum

, with thousands of finds from all over the world. times, and the Basilica of San Bartolomeo, the main place of worship in the archipelago.

The other essential place is the

Belvedere Quattrocchi

viewpoint

, a panoramic balcony overlooking

Valle Muria beach

.

The sunset fills with viewers eager to photograph the unrivaled views of

the smoking crater of Vulcan

.

The viewpoint has privileged views of the southwest of the island, and gives an idea of ​​how it came to be formed.

Also in the south of Lípari you can discover

ancient volcanic craters

covered by lush vineyards and

very typical rural churches,

in a delightful walk that can be done on foot, dedicating a few hours. Walking around the island, you can discover other very curious and surprising corners, such as the remains of a

nineteenth-century spa

located on much older hot springs, which were already mentioned in the chronicles of Diodorus Siculus, from the 50th century BC, in the by Pliny the Elder and by Strabo. The

San Calogero hot springs

Today they are abandoned and no one takes advantage of these sulfur springs that in other times were an important tourist attraction. Peering through the vegetation, you discover a Roman pool, a smaller round pool and a magnificent

Mycenaean

tholos

from the 15th century BC.

Not everything is tradition and views of the sea in the Aeolians, for some time, the old doors of houses, warehouses and patios of Lípari, Canneto and Acquacalda, closed and peeled by time and salubrious air, have become the support of the works of #portedartista, a creative redevelopment project that has attracted the attention of photographers and visitors.

The artist Demetrio Di Grado cuts and enlarges images of characters taken from 1950s magazines and pastes them on the shutters as a

collage,

thus recreating the historical memory of the island.

A group of hikers walk towards the Great Crater de la Fossa, between sulfur fumaroles, on the Italian island of Vulcano.

Hemis alamy

Vulcan

The quiet island in the shadow of a volcano

Black beaches

bathed by crystal clear waters,

canyons

to explore on foot and splendid views of the sea and the islands, all at the foot of the

Great Crater of La Fossa

, which gives it an unmistakable profile. This is Vulcano, the closest island to Sicily, dominated by a threatening volcano that arouses both fascination and fear. It is a quiet place, with villages like the placid

Gelso,

an oasis of peace and silence bathed by a very clear sea. Here the traveler discovers impressive nature,

ancient legends about ancient gods

and some breathtaking epic views, such as that of

Capo Grillo

.

The island is named after the Roman god of fire who, according to mythology, lived precisely here. Today the god is still present, among the great sulfur flows that emerge from the Fossa crater, which

last erupted in 1888

. The ascent to the top is done by a simple sandy path that should be done with hiking boots, and that will allow us to enjoy

lunar landscapes and impressive views

. It is a simple path, in which the landscapes change, from the slopes covered with ginesta bushes to the lunar-like volcanic bombs on the summit. At the top, a crater of about 500 meters in diameter and 386 meters high awaits us.

The other great viewpoint on the island, surpassed only by the one at the top of the crater, is

Capo Grillo

, about seven kilometers from the port, near Vulcano Piano, in the center of the island. You have to get there by car, or if you feel like it (and good legs) go up by bike. The reward is

breathtaking views of Lipari, Salina, Panarea and Stromboli, and on clear days also of Filicudi

.

The contrast is in the tiny town of

Gelso

, on the opposite side of the crater, a small paradise overlooking the crystal clear waters.

It was the first inhabited center of the island,

far from the dangers of the eruptions

, and it still seems to be from another era, with a pier where fishermen's boats dock, a pleasant stone beach, a small church and

an abandoned lighthouse

corroded by the Salt.

And nothing more.

The most famous beach on the island is Sabbie Nere, a long stretch of very black sand in Ponente Bay, with clear and shallow waters.

Some prefer to bathe in the sulphurous mud of Porto de Levante, a thermal pool whose mud is said to be effective against rheumatic pain and some skin diseases.

The Current of Fire (Sciara del Fuoco, in Italian) marks the path of the lava flows that occur during the eruptions of the Stromboli volcano, on the island of the same name.

Marco Crupi getty images

Stromboli

A movie island

A film -

Stromboli, tierra de Dios

(1950), directed by

Roberto Rossellini

and with

Ingrid Bergman

as the main actress - put Stromboli in the imagination of film lovers, who remember that threatening image of one of the most active volcanoes in the world. This is the easternmost island of the Aeolians,

a large black rock dotted with pleasant beaches

and dominated by the smoking silhouette of a volcano that has always attracted thousands of travelers. Many only disembark for a few hours to see the show, but it is worth spending at least a couple of days to enjoy the peculiar life of this place.

Stromboli has

three craters

above the so-called

Sciara del Fuoco

, a lava flow that descends to the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Incandescent magna

and volcanic material

regularly comes out of them

that

illuminates the nights

. Many of these phenomena can be seen from the sea,

aboard boats

that depart from all the islands of the archipelago, or from

the Sciara del Fuoco viewpoint

. But for many, the essential experience is still the

excursion to the top of the crater

. The ascent is hard, and you have to arrive before sunset, to crown the summit at nightfall, when explosions dye the sky with spectacular fires, which for millennia were used by sailors as a kind of

natural lighthouse

. You can only be accompanied by a volcanic guide and sometimes it is forbidden to do it for long periods, depending on the intensity of its volcanic activity.

Much quieter is the small town of

Ginostra

, isolated on the slope of the volcano, at the western end of the island. It has less than 30 inhabitants and can only be reached by sea.

There is no running water or street lighting

, but it is a timeless and delightful place that gives you an idea of ​​what the Aeolian Islands must have been like centuries ago. There is little to do around here: silence, hiking trails, a crystalline sea in which to take long baths in the

piscinette

(natural pools next to the port) or on

Lazzaro beach

, 15 minutes from the town.

The most famous building on the island is

the

Casa Rossa

:

in the spring of 1949, during the filming of

Stromboli, land of God

, Bergman and Rossellini they stayed in the red building at the foot of the village and fell in

love, scandalizing all world with their union (they were both married).

Although it is not possible to visit it, many moviegoers stop at the house to take a souvenir photo of the facade, where a plaque commemorates the romance.

There is also a film museum that collects the historical and visual memory of the Aeolian Islands.

Crystal clear waters and rocky relief on the coast near Pollara, on the island of Salina.

Dallas stribley getty images

Saline

Pablo Neruda's refuge

Those who have seen the film

The Postman (and Pablo Neruda)

, by Michael Radford, awarded an Oscar in 1994, will recognize some of the corners of Salina,

the most cosmopolitan and preferred by the

international

jet set

. The silhouette of

two great extinct volcanoes

dominates

the greenest island of the archipelago

, which attracts above all those who know how to enjoy nature and silence with its

prehistoric legacy

and its poetic

fishing villages

.

Dominated by the unmistakable profile of

Monte dei Porri

and

Monte Fossa delle Felci

, two extinct volcanoes covered by dense vegetation that can be covered by

a wide network of trails

(there are 12 signposted, most of them quite demanding), Salina is the second most great after Lípari. Some call this lush island the Garden of the Aeolians, with

pebble beaches lapped by a very blue sea

. It is perfect for those looking for a quiet corner to escape from the urban bustle.

Its most photographed and recognizable corner is the placid town of

Pollara

, in the collapsed crater of an ancient volcano, which served as the setting for the film

The Postman

, where Pablo Neruda (Philippe Noiret) took refuge in a typical Aeolian house with views Sea. There really isn't much to see or do here. During the day, its waters are perfect for a calm bath, and at sunset it is almost obligatory to sit and contemplate

how the sun hides behind the profiles of Alicudi and Filicudi.

Touring this small island reveals some surprises, such as some

Roman baths in Punta Barone

, at the northern end of

Santa Maria Salina

. They are from the 2nd century BC, and ended up dedicated to salting fish. Or, going even further back in time, we would have to look at the

prehistoric town of Portella

, made up of 23 circular huts at different heights. The nostalgic note is found in the

Eolic Museum of Emigration

, installed in a beautiful house with whitewashed walls, in

Malfa

. It tells the story of the emigration of the inhabitants of Salina and the other islands to the United States, Argentina and Australia, historic destinations for thousands of Aeolian families.

But you don't just go to Salina to go to the beach and do outdoor activities. Various cultural initiatives of great interest are carried out on the island. Many of them take place in the splendid

Palazzo Marchetti

, a prestigious 20th-century villa in Malfa given to the

Didime '90 association

by one of the owner's descendants, a Salina resident who emigrated to the USA. holds

exhibitions and concerts

(often free) in the luxurious halls and in the lush garden that surrounds it.

And for those who prefer the pleasures of good wines, on this island there are 1

1 wineries that produce the famous Malvasia delle Lipari wine

.

Many of them sell their production to the public and allow you to learn the secrets of winemaking or take a walk through the vineyards.

The Junco cove, in the bay of Panarea, with the islands of Lípari and Salina looming on the horizon.

spooh getty images

Panarea

The most exclusive

This island that hides a wild heart formed by

aromatic trails,

turquoise waters and a prehistoric town on a cape that juts out into the sea. The most luxurious yachts dock at the glamorous and exclusive

Panarea

, the smallest of the seven Aeolian sisters. However, one of the first civilizations that populated the archipelago was formed on its coasts and transformed it into a crossroads of trade in the Mediterranean. Its nature sums up the essence of the Aeolian Islands, something that can be discovered by walking along its paths and then cooling off with a bath.

The strong point of Panarea for those who dare to know the cultural aspect of the island is the

prehistoric town of Punta Milazzese

, from the Bronze Age, on a rocky promontory overlooking the sea that is accessed through the narrow isthmus from

San Pietro

, the main town of Panarea. Hundreds of objects have been found in their cabins that have allowed us to better understand the maritime trade between the Aeolian Islands and Mycenae fifteen centuries before Christ.

The other proposal to do here is to lie on its beaches, such as

Calcara

or

Cala Zimmari

(the only sandy

cove

in all of Panarea) or look for a more picturesque cove, such as

Junco,

with turquoise waters that bathe a coast covered with large stones. . They are waters for diving or for lovers of tranquility.

Around Panarea, in the stretch of sea that separates it from Stromboli, there are

five islets

, each one more beautiful and smaller than the last.

They constitute a kind of mini-archipelago within the Aeolians:

Dattil;

Lisca Bianca;

Basiluzzo, Lisca Nera and Bottaro

, whose depths house the

remains of an English merchant ship

sunk in the 19th century and are therefore a

very popular diving destination

.

The small islands can be explored by renting a boat or by hiring one of the agencies that organize outings in the surroundings.

A man carries drinking water on a donkey for the consumption of the most isolated population of the island of Alicudi.

Hemis alamy

Alicudi

The island of flying women

Lovers of nature and solitude adore this island where the streets are narrow stone stairs and everything moves on the back of a donkey. The elders say that once in Alicudi there were

women who flew

. They were called

mahare

and were

characters similar to witches;

they would disappear at dusk to reappear in the morning, often bringing home food or some money. Apparently they played tricks on anyone who came across them. There is likely a very prosaic explanation behind this story of sudden disappearances and returns. It is said that the fault was

a fungus that at the beginning of the 20th century could have infected rye crops

from the whole island: a mushroom in which lysergic acid, better known as

LSD, was first found

.

With this rye a

"hallucinogenic" bread

was made,

which is believed to have been the cause of collective visions such as that of the flying women.

Today there are no flying women but the island can be a continuous surprise.

Wild, primitive, inhabited by a few dozen people and

devoid of roads

, it is a paradise bathed by a crystalline sea and dominated by the

Filo dell'Arpa peak,

at whose feet a plain lies waiting to be explored.

The

Filo dell'Arpa

(675 meters) can be accessed by steep flights of stairs. Although many travelers go straight up here to admire the splendid views of the archipelago, it is worth lengthening the itinerary and walking around the entire island (4.5 kilometers, about five hours) starting and ending at the

port of Alicudi,

visiting old neighborhoods. abandoned and disused pastures, decorated with strange stone structures.

Alicudi is the westernmost island of the archipelago, and this ensures a

sunset espectacu-dollars

. Romantic souls should not miss the

Casa del Tramonto

,

a small abandoned house at the end of a mid-coast road that begins west of the port. There is absolutely nothing here, apart from the ruins and terraces of ancient crops, but seeing the sun sinking into the sea and turning everything red is an unforgettable sight.

In recent years, Alicudi has carved out a respectable place among the hiking destinations of the Aeolians.

Throughout the island there are narrow

mule

paths

and

trails

that go from the port to all the neighborhoods and up to the Filo dell'Arpa, the highest point.

In total there are about fifteen signposted itineraries, each one indicated with different colored signs.

enlarge photo Ruins of a Neolithic village on the Italian island of Filicudi.

Hemis alamy

Filicudi

The island that resisted the gangsters

Its trails connect with ancient villages, many of them abandoned - like

Zucco Grande

, a ruined village where it is said that

the most beautiful women on the island

once lived

- or lead us to long

stony beaches

. It also holds archaeological surprises, such as the Bronze Age towns of

Capo Graziano

and

Filo Braccio,

two of the most interesting sites in the archipelago, surrounded by a sea that hides

dozens of shipwrecks

, sunk since the 5th century BC with their load of amphoras. and ceramics still on board. Those who are not experienced divers can admire some of the finds in the

Filicudi Museum

, near the port.

Hikers have a challenge on the climb to

Zucco Grande

and

Mount Fossa Felci,

on a long itinerary, recommended only for the most experienced, which can also be divided into several stages. It starts at the port of Filicudi, reaches the abandoned town of Zucco Grande and climbs to the top of the island, Mount Fossa Felci, and from there descend south to

Pecorini a Mare,

and return to the starting point passing through the settlements prehistoric. A circular and complete tour between uninhabited villages, spectacular views and small churches on the top of the mountain, which can be completed with a good refreshing swim on the

beach of Pecorini.

The recent history of the island even has some heroic episode, such as the resistance in May 1971 that its inhabitants demonstrated when

they refused to take in 15 suspected gangsters

destined to live in confinement on this small island.

The islanders all resisted having their island turned into

an open-air prison

.

Before the arrival of ships of soldiers to enforce the order, they jumped into the sea in boats and arrived in Lipari, where they were received as winners.

Given this, the Italian Government had to revoke the provision and assign the alleged gangsters to the island of Asinara.

A sign on a street in Salina warns of the sale of Malvasía wine, one of the hallmarks of the gastronomy of the Aeolian Islands.

getty images

And to finish: a plate and a glass to the wind

There are not only hiking, beaches and spectacular sunsets in the Aeolians.

There are also corners to enjoy a good glass of wine or a meal overlooking the Mediterranean.

The local gastronomy has a lot in common with certain Sicilian dishes, but with its own stamp.

The king of local dishes is

totano

(similar to squid, but much larger in size), the main ingredient in Aeolian cuisine.

Most restaurants in the archipelago offer it

all'eoliana

,

cooked with tomato, capers and onion, used as a condiment for pasta, or stuffed with breadcrumbs, parsley, garlic, oregano, olives and other aromas.

To try the best traditional cuisine you just have to go to

La Vela

, a pleasant cafe-restaurant in Marina Corta in Lípari, famous for its huge salads and its abundant typical Aeolian dishes (

pasta alla norma, pane cunzato

...) And everything, market kitchen. Another interesting proposal is

Filippino

,

a true institution of the islands, at the foot of the Lipari castle. It uses only local ingredients for its dishes, with squid as the star. At the tables with white cotton tablecloths come

cuttlefish

ink

scialatelli

with Vulcano ricotta and prawns,

swordfish

involtini

with lemon figs and

rascacio alla liparota

.

And as an accompaniment, an essential glass of Malvasía delle Lipari. The Malvasia grape, imported by the Greeks in the 5th century BC, is grown mainly in Salina, Lípari and Vulcano. Currently two types of wines are made with these grapes:

the DOC Malvasia delle Lipari,

excellent with dry pastries and blue cheeses, and the

DOC Malvasia delle Lipari Passito

(the grape is left to dry for 10-20 days before vinification), ideal for desserts.

There are several wineries where you can taste it, such as

Tenuta di Castellaro

, in the Piana di Castellaro, north of Lípari, which organizes guided tours with tasting, or like

Fenech

, one of the 11 wineries in Salina that not only produces Malvasia delle Lipari but also IGT from Sicily red and white and a good staple. Also in Salina, the

Virgona winery

produces good malvasia, grapa, white and red wine, craft beer, preserves and other food and wine wonders.

For dessert, the best thing is to try the typical sweets of the islands, the

nacatuli

, cakes filled with almond paste and flavored with malvasia, cinnamon and citrus.

The most famous pastry shop to taste them is in Lípari: at

Pasticceria Subba

these sweet delicacies are baked at all hours.

Find inspiration for your next trips on our Facebook and Twitter and Instragram or subscribe here to the El Viajero Newsletter.