Through the Cabuérniga valley between giant sequoias, enchanted fountains and fairytale towns in Cantabria

In the middle of the last century, someone dreamed of a magical forest of giant trees that only grew on the Pacific coast of North America and that would sprout a few kilometers from the Cantabrian Sea.

Although the imposing sequoias had already been introduced timidly in some countries of the Old Continent, in Cantabria a big bet was made and the result was the forest of this species with the largest extension in Europe: 850 specimens of

that rise towards the sky in two and a half hectares between the towns of Cabezón de la Sal and Comillas.

Thus, the (free) visit to the natural monument of the Secuoyas del Monte Cabezón can be described as a gratifying and unique experience of immersion in nature, which some travelers stage with hugs to the trunks of a meter and a half in perimeter and an average height of 36 meters.

The accesses to the forest are admirably achieved by means of wooden walkways that go into a hillside where, no matter how many visitors there are on weekends, a respectful silence reigns imposed by these fairytale giants.

The effect produced by the combination of colors —the green of the leaves, the ocher of the trunks and branches, the reddish brown of a ground that would be said to be cushiony and so pleasant to tread on—, the penumbra only broken by the light that hardly Penalties penetrate between the tops of the redwoods... A whole balm for the troubled mind.

A hiker contemplates the giant trees in the natural monument of the Secuoyas del Monte Cabezón (Cantabria). Tolo Balaguer (Alamy)

We are very close to the splendid valley of Cabuérniga, and the first town that we find to the south, in the direction of the Saja-Besaya natural park, is Ruente.

About 10 kilometers from the great sequoias, this is a charming little town of about a thousand inhabitants surrounded by the foothills of the Cantabrian mountain range.

It has a handful of Renaissance mansions and the notable palace of Mier, but its main attraction is La Fuentona, a stream that flows from a cave on the outskirts of the town, home of the

, that beneficial fairy from Cantabrian mythology that opens or cuts the flow at will and that, according to legend, guards a Templar treasure.

The stream runs through a forest and crosses the town under a medieval bridge supported by nine arches that make up its most typical postcard.

Medieval bridge with nine arches over the Ruente river, in the town of the same name.

Tony ALS (Alamy)

Before continuing on the route, the Ciclo Ruente restaurant, on one side of the usually quiet main road, serves some great appetizers on its attractive terrace.

It is recommended, of course in Cantabria, a portion of squid rings or delicious anchovies.

Continuing south, the 20 kilometers that separate Ruente from Bárcena Mayor might suggest a short journey, but the regional route —always parallel to the Saja river—, narrower and more winding as we approach the Saja-Besaya natural park, will lead at least a couple of hours, because on the way there are various places of interest.

Between the beauty of the surrounding mountains and the beech and oak forests, attractive towns such as Barcenillas, Terán, Selores or Renedo sprout, small nuclei of well-preserved mountain houses, and natural wonders such as the Lamiña waterfalls.

One of the waterfalls of Lamiña, a town in the municipality of Ruente, in the Cantabrian valley of Cabuérniga.

Julen Arabaolaza (GETTY IMAGES)

Finally, at 500 meters above sea level and on the banks of the Argoza River, one of the most beautiful and unique towns in Spain appears: Bárcena Mayor, with barely 80 inhabitants in winter, who multiply during vacation times or even on weekends.

Staying in the only establishment in the village, the Reserva Verde rural inn, allows you to admire this jewel of mountain architecture in solitude at dusk and early in the morning, after a very complete breakfast next to the fireplace in the dining room that includes some regional puff pastry, like Unquera's ties.

All of Bárcena Mayor is a historic center;

A walk through the narrow streets lined with well-restored stone houses, and better embellished by the locals who decorate their wooden balconies with plants and flowers, will lead us to the 17th-century church of Santa María, near the old public laundry.

The prohibition of vehicles that do not belong to residents or guests of the accommodation to enter the town is a measure that will be appreciated not only by walkers but also by those who want to obtain authentic vintage postcard photographs.

Some mansions house on their ground floor the workshop of a wood craftsman or a cute shop selling local products: pomace, honey, picón cheese that is slightly softer than the Cabrales cheese from neighboring Asturias...

Traditional houses with wooden balconies decorated with plants in a street in Bárcena Mayor (Cantabria).Jose Miguel Sanchez (Alamy)

The history of Bárcena Mayor dates back to the 9th or 10th centuries and many claim that it is the oldest town in Cantabria.

And it is also among the most remote;

in fact, it is the only urban center within the limits of the Saja-Besaya natural park.

As soon as you cross the stone bridge over the river, you can take several hiking trails of different lengths: towards the town of Los Tojos, the Alto de la Cruz de Fuentes or the Pozo de la Arbencia, where the waters of the rivers meet. Ants and Fountains, along paths that run between beeches, oaks, chestnuts, yews, birches, hazelnuts or ash trees... It is not unusual to see deer, roe deer, foxes and even wild boars from the path.

And it is also the territory of the wolf, which in these parts never attacks man.

At lunchtime, his thing is to order a strong mountain stew ―with white beans, cabbage and a mix of chorizo, bacon, ribs and blood sausage― in one of the four restaurants in town, all of similar quality and prices: El Puente , La Solana, Río Argoza or La Jontana.

Those with a sweet tooth shouldn't miss trying the splendid rice pudding for dessert.

The nostalgia for the beauty left behind assails the traveler as soon as he leaves Bárcena Mayor, a sensation that is divinely combated if, on his way back to Santander, he takes the regional highway 182 in a northwesterly direction, which takes us to Carmona, just 26 kilometers and between the valleys of Saja and Nansa.

Mirador del Ribero, overlooking the town of Carmona (Cantabria). Jose Manuel Castillo (EyeEm / GETTY IMAGES)

Like Bárcena Mayor, the small municipality of Carmona (170 inhabitants) is on the list of the Association of the Most Beautiful Towns in Spain.

And it is that his vision from the road that descends to the valley would be enough to justify such an award.

Again among stone houses on arcades and with balconies built between the 16th and 18th centuries, such as the Díaz de Cossio, Calderón y Mier palace, a former tourist inn and today the Arha Casona de Carmona hotel.

The tranquility and calm offered by the contemplation of sober and beautiful buildings and the nature that welcomes them overwhelm the visitor.

Normally, in the middle of a silence that is only torn by the

of the bells of the tudanca cows.

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