The year 2022/23, which will very soon give way to its successor, 2024, will be remembered as a particularly frenetic year in the Israeli wine industry. There's been a lot of buzzing, quite a few chair games, retirements and new appointments over the past year. Here is a brief and non-exhaustive summary. In the executive sector – Assaf Ben-Dov, ex Maccabi Haifa, assumed the position of CEO of Golan Heights Winery; Eli Hedge began managing the Recanati Winery; And Benzi Elisha replaced Erel Barkai at Arza Wineries and the creator.
Among the retirees are Gil Schatzberg, who vacated the position of vice president of Recanati Winery (and former head winemaker), and Michal Ackerman, chief agronomist and director of Tavor Winery who moved into (local) politics. In the professional positions, winemaker David Bar-Ilan left Tulip Winery, and was replaced by Dana Benny, who came from the southern Nana Winery. Ariel Beer was upgraded from a wine assistant position at Jerusalem Wineries to head winemaker at Emek Ella Winery (a winery that has been run in recent years without a permanent winemaker). Olivia Parthi, who after 18 years moved from the large family Teperberg Winery to the larger winery - Barkan and Segal - where he replaced Ido Levinson as head winemaker, while Teperberg came veteran Zvi Skaits (ex Carmel Wineries, Jerusalem and Barkan). As already mentioned, an incomplete list.
Bottled is an art
We sampled three key people who were starting a new role this year and met with them over a glass of wine.
Olivia Parthie(48)is a veteran and respected winemaker. He studied winemaking in Bordeaux and for more than 18 years worked shoulder to shoulder with Shiki Rauchberger at the Teperberg Winery. Over the past year, he has moved on to serve as head winemaker of Barkan and Segal Wineries.
Olivia Parthie,
Barkan is bigger, but Teperberg Winery is also quite small. So what has actually changed for you?
"The size of the winery has an effect, but not significantly, because instead of absorbing 300 tons a day, I absorb 500 tons. Instead of bottling 30,000 liters, I bottle 50,000 liters. The more fundamental difference for me is that Barkan are part of the public Tempo group, while Teperberg is a family winery. At a family winery, decisions are made quite quickly, with a small team and sometimes even by one person. This has advantages and disadvantages - on the one hand, things move fast, but on the other hand, not everything reaches the knowledge of all the winery employees, and the decisions made are not always the right decisions."
In addition, at Teperberg you mainly managed the harvest and the work was a net winemaker, whereas now at Barkan you are also required to manage people.
Parthi: "At the Teperberg Winery, I also managed people, albeit a leaner team that included the production and laboratory personnel. I also serve as a volunteer treasurer of the winemakers' organization and chairman of Moshav Talmi Yaffe, where I live, so in terms of management I came up with good tools.
"The innovation for me is to manage winemakers, because your knowledge and theirs are at a high professional level. We are all graduates of the best universities in the world in this field, and we need to know how to accompany them correctly in order to get the best results."
The announcement of your appointment states that Ido Levinson, the previous chief winemaker, remained with the team in the role of "professional director". What does that actually mean – he's a "super winemaker"? Presenter? What is the division of labor between you?
"I have a lot of respect for Ido, and we're still getting to know each other and trying to make the best wine we can. As stated in the announcement issued by the winery, Ido is more concerned with future development. Also, since the amount of vineyards at our disposal is enormous and I am still new and do not know all the plots in depth, he accompanies me at this stage here as well.
"As the winery's head winemaker, I have a complete free hand vis-à-vis the winery managers. I set the quality standards, winemaking processes, which wine will go to which series, etc., and together with the director of the agricultural department, Amos Duek, also a winemaker by training, we plan the treatments in the vineyards in order to get maximum quality from the grapes."
With a hand on your heart, the winery is considered one of the two largest wineries in Israel, but at least in terms of basic wines, it feels like other wineries have bypassed you in the round. What do you plan to do to change that?
Parthi: "I don't agree that our wine is inferior compared to other wines. In internal tastings I did when I took office, our wines reached high places against the competition, but it's a matter of style, and of course we winemakers always strive to raise the level of our produce. I, for example, aim for a rounder, tastier and softer wine, so that anyone who tastes Barkan wine will continue to want another glass. At Barkan we currently have the most advanced winemaking equipment in Israel. Recently, for example, we received a new grape receiving pit that has not yet been in Israel - with a control center and pneumatic piping, and this will make a change and affect the absorption rate as well, but mainly on the quality. We have a press for white wine and a separate prize for red wine, both of which operate automatically, which should reduce human error and lead to more accurate results."
We know that winery processes are long, and sometimes years pass to see results. When can we see your winemaking fingerprint on the winery's wines?
Parthi: "A month after I came here, I thought my change would be felt within six months. Today I think it will take about three years for the wines to really express my credo."
Have you heard of an exotic winery?
Eli Hedge (64) – who managed large and well-known systems and organizations in the retail and trade sectors, including as CEO of Home Center, Deputy CEO of Shufersal, CEO of Dor Alon and more – put on a new uniform and joined Recanati Winery as CEO over the past year.
Eli Hedge, Photo: Enzo Ghosh
Isn't it a little small for you to move from mega-organizations to a winery that employs only a few dozen people?
Hedging: "Management is management, no matter how many employees you manage. I see quite a challenge in managing a winery, which for me is a new field, although it is impossible to say that the world of wine is foreign to me - I have always been there, on the other side as a customer, and therefore I have many years of acquaintance with the Shaked brothers (one of the owners of the winery, R.P.), and I am also quite a wine lover."
Recanati Winery is considered a mediocre player in the industry, but as an innovator who led the field of Mediterranean wines. How do you continue to innovate after suddenly discovering that more and more wineries are adopting this Mediterranean winemaking approach?
"It's very flattering to discover that our pioneering is contagious, and other wineries are going in this direction, because that's simply what suits our climate in Israel – lighter wines that are also culinarily suitable to accompany a meal. The demand for this style of wines does not stop rising. We also see success of our wine abroad in restaurants in Europe (Germany, Holland, Belgium) and in the US, not necessarily in the kosher market. We are perceived there as an exotic winery, whose wine accompanies the culinary, so it is easier for us to export."
You came in to manage the winery at a very significant time for him - near the winery's move to its new home in the Dalton industrial zone. Isn't this too big a shock for the organization - both a CEO change and a location?
"Not at all. We moved on the previous vintage to a new facility, and now we are finishing the transition process - with the final, decorative touch. We planted vineyards around the winery and we are completing what is required to absorb visitors. Part of the transition to this new infrastructure allows us to become even more professional and produce wine at the highest level. On the one hand, we brought in containers of 5,000 liters like in boutique wineries, and on the other hand, containers of 40,<> liters that are also used in giant wineries.
"Our ability to control the raw material and our proximity now to the vineyards while closely managing them only continue to improve the quality of our produce, which is responsible for Kobi Arviv, the head winemaker, and Shahar Marmor, the winemaker alongside him."
We know that the COVID-19 years led to an increase in the amount of wine consumption in Israel, as well as in the level of demand for higher quality wine. Today, when we are post-pandemic, what is left of all this?
"One of the more significant things we've noticed is that a younger audience is getting more into the world of wine. It started with Corona and it continues and intensifies. In meetings of young people aged 20 plus - today instead of six beers they bring two bottles of wine, while in terms of an older audience people are now looking for quality, a higher level. And yes, it's also reflected in demand."
Strong branding is the name of the game
In the world of distributors, we have noticed that in the past year the Haifa company Spiritas, veteran distributors of alcohol, have become very strong in marketing and distributing Israeli wine, and their portfolio already has five wineries and wine brands – Tzuba, Ben David, Afoud, Emek Yizreel and recently Jaffa Winery – and they have not yet had the last word.
Idan Oz as Spheres,
Idan Oz (44) has been managing the company's wine business in recent years, and says that "entering the wine field and establishing itself in it was an informed decision that was made by us four years ago, and only this year are we starting to see its fruits. The rationale was based on reading the market and understanding that there is more and more public interest in quality Israeli wines, with talk about quality replacing talk about price. They used to look for the 4 for 100 and 3 for 100, but now they look for the better wines, because 'even if it costs more, it's tastier and more enjoyable.'"
There are quite a few wine distribution companies in the country. What is the added value you give wine producers as distributors of their produce?
"Our approach comes from the company's extensive experience in the alcohol world – strong branding, maintaining brand values, digital presence, both with retailers and with end consumers. We believe that the winery has the professional ability to produce the wine in the best possible way, and we have the opportunity to give it marketing and distribution backing and represent it beyond the winery's gates.
"We choose the wineries we work with according to two main parameters, beyond quality of course: one – the ability to create good working relationships, and the other – the ability to make a unique statement in his wine. Ben David Winery, for example, is a one-man show winery called Yoav Tadegi, which started almost 15 years ago with only a few thousand bottles, and today reaches almost 60,<> bottles, and it doesn't stop there. He receives the grapes from Ben Zimra vineyards and the surrounding area, and makes very personal wines, and even the names of the wines are given after his family members. We represent wineries from all regions in Israel and continue to look forward to Judea, Samaria and the desert, with the intention of finding cooperation there."
And what has the past year really been like for you?
"We conclude 2022-2023 with great satisfaction. It can be said, without going into numbers, that the increase in the scope of our activity in the industry was many tens of percent, and we do not stop there and continue to grow.
Beyond that, what we try to bring to the nature of our work is that it's not all numbers and money, but there is also a very personal aspect of wine love that we cultivate," he concludes. √
Olivia Parthi, Barkan Winery's Chief Winemaker and Segal: "The innovation for me in entering my new position is to manage winemakers, because your knowledge and theirs are at a very high professional level"
In preparation for Rosh Hashanah, and against the background of the rising cost of living, we emphasized wines at an affordable price in our tasting, but alongside them we also added some more expensive wines that will provide a luxurious experience for those who can afford it. Here are our recommendations for new wines on the shelf, ahead of the High Holidays.
The price is funny - so drink
Shiraz Prestige 2022, Binyamina: Probably the tasting surprise. Great wine, young and expressive, fresh plum aroma and a little tar (that's good!), body not too complex but juicy and full of joy - all at a ridiculous price. Take a cardboard! (30 NIS)
Binyamina Prestig Shiraz,
Shiraz Estate 2022, Zion Wineries: Due to the harvest that took place during the Shmita year, the winery, which adheres to strict kashrut, chose to go as far as the Todros Mountains in Cyprus and harvest the grapes there, under the supervision of the winemaker who arrived there with his Israeli team. The production process was completed in Israel not before the wine rested in barrels about six months before bottling. A bright, bursting purple color, with a violet aroma, tart cherry, white pepper and herbs. It is not for nothing that this wine has won two gold medals in the last three years in the Best Valio competition, and it gives a rare value for its price. Great start to the new year! (38h, 3 bottles for 100h on holiday deals)
Shiraz Estate Zion Winery, Photo: Eyal Keren
Jonathan White 2022, Recanati: From a fresh and fresh screen from Colomber grapes (a variety that has recently returned to fashion) and Sauvignon Blanc. An almost transparent shade, a sharp nose of pineapple and melon, along with white blossoms and a hint of vanilla. His entrance to the mouth is fresh, but later he discovers pear and pineapple flavors and a slight oiliness. Elegant and tight wine at an affordable price. (40h)
Yonatan Levan Recanati, Photo: Omri Meron
Dry Gewürztraminer 2021, Ella Valley Winery: Israelis have already embraced the sweet wines produced from this aromatic variety that characterizes the wines of Germany, Alsace and Austria a decade or more, but here it was installed on the dry side, one of the few made in Israel. A deep golden hue, a subtle aromatic nose, flavors of lychee and grapefruit and a somewhat bitter-sophisticated finish. Loved. (55h)
Gewürztraminer Ella Valley,
Premium Cabernet 2021, Jerusalem Wineries: A classic Cabernet installed by Lior Laxer, the winery's chief winemaker and CEO, from grapes harvested around the capital. Very fruity in the nose (cherry, black pepper), while in the mouth it is juicy and pleasant to sip with sour cherry flavors. Without philosophizing much - just drink and enjoy. (65h)
Premium Cabernet Jerusalem Wineries., Photo: Eyal Keren
Legato Barbera 2019, Creator's Winery: The Barbera variety characterizes the slopes of the Piedmont hills in northern Italy, and here it grows not far from Kibbutz Tzora. After maturing for about a year in barrels, it has a slightly faded purple-black tint, and it exhibits a red fruit aroma (ripe red plum). In the mouth it is fruity but settled, fleshy, and mostly well made. (69h)
Legato Barbara 2020. Hayotzer Winery, Photo: Eyal Keren
Up to one hundred and twenty
Inspire Grenache, Carignan, Morveder & Syrah 2022, Teperberg: From an unusual screen of "Mediterranean" grapes - 40% Grenache, 30% Carignan, 20% Morveder and Syrah complement. After maturing in non-new barrels for only eight months, it exhibits a moderately potent reddish hue, a herbaceous and floral nose with a pleasant aroma of red fruit combined with a somewhat earthy scent. In the mouth it has a soft and smooth texture with balanced sourness. For those looking for something a little different. (75h)
Teperberg's Inspire Photo: PR
Rachel 2022, Ben David Winery: A tiny winery from Kibbutz Shamir in the Upper Galilee that is appearing here for the first time. The rosé we tasted was lovely. Has a pale hue, perfumed and floral nose that combines a yellow peach and apricot scent. At the entrance it is fresh, but suddenly a fruity sweetness and a surprising body are added to it. A fun wine that will be suitable as an aperitif for the opening of New Year's events. (80h)
Rachel 2022, Ben David Winery., Photo: PR
Vionia 2022, Kishor Winery: From the Western Galilee, a developing wine region, we sipped the vionia of Kishor Winery, which waded for about six months in barrels and skips between white and orange fruitiness (pear, Annona and melon) and greasy nutty (who said coconut?). That line extends into your mouth too – with elegance in every sip. Very diamond starters of a formal holiday dinner. (95h)
Levana 2022, Psagot Winery:And here is a really new wine. A special bubbly made using the Champagne method (i.e. a second fermentation inside the bottle), but instead of waiting three years it is marketed almost immediately. That's how the Israelis are, they have no patience. Truth? Turned out great! Unfiltered light yellow shade, aromas of green apple, pear, pomelo peel and bread yeast. Very dry in its flavors, sharp and refreshing. Great to open a year like this! (95h)
Levana - wild bubbling Chardonnay in natural bubbling Psagot Winery,
Cabernet Kerem Judaica 2019, Tavor Winery: A polished and serious Cabernet, whose grapes were harvested in a single vineyard in Gush Etzion (wonderful terroir!) at 950 meters above sea level and matured in barrels for about a year and a half. In the nose chocolate and black berries, rich coffee and a hint of eucalyptus. In a sip it is somewhat dark, wide and caressing and with a long finish. Very impressive. (100h)
Cabernet Judaica 19 Tavor Winery, Photo: PR Tavor Winery
Vardlow Experience 2022, Carmel Wineries: Experience is a new premium wine series presented by Yiftach Peretz, the winery's chief winemaker, which offers innovative wines produced in small quantities, in which new varieties, growing methods and wine production processes have been tried and tested. The Verdelo grape, a white variety, which has its first appearance in Israel, is popular in the Madeira region of Portugal. Here it grows in the Mevo Beitar vineyard, and the juice extracted from it was fermented in French oak and Austrian oak barrels. The wine presents a sharp, different and fascinating nose, characterized by mineral aromas, white flowers, rosemary and chamomile. The body is elegant and refined, with balanced sourness, rich white fruit (yellow peach and apricot) and delicate honey. Really wonderful. (120h)
Wardlow 2022 - Experience Series, Carmel, Photo: Eyal Keren
624 Altitude 2019, Barkan Winery: Cabernet from a single vineyard near Alma in the Upper Galilee, which matured for about 18 months in oak barrels. It has black fruit aromas (plums and raspberries), accompanied by Mediterranean herbs and black plum flavors, coffee and cloves, dark chocolate, a little smoke and a special and different finish. The body is full, the tannins are balanced and the finish is long. What needs more? (120h)
Altitude Barkan, Photo: PR
The sky is the limit
Shiraz Family Collection 2020, Dalton Winery: A new series that replaces the old Reserve series, and emphasizes the family heritage of the Galilee winery of the Roni family. The grapes were harvested in the Safsufa vineyard and the Alkosh vineyard in Merom HaGalil, and the wine matured for 18 months in barrels. A tempting and rich nose of blue berries and black pepper. In a sip it demonstrates ripe fruitiness alongside good earthiness. An elegant, rich and deep classic wine, with good tannins that will improve over the years. (125h)
Shiraz Dalton Winery, Photo: Ori Geron
Marcellin Reserve "Elia" 2019, Tanya Winery: For several years Yoram Cohen's wines have been absent from our tasting, but it was worth the wait. This Marcellin, a variety created in France from a hybrid of Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon, grown in the Binyamin vineyards, is endowed with a dark and shiny purple hue. It has an aroma of purple fruits, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries, skin and a delicate eucalyptus seasoning. Full body and fleshy, peat and fruit dripping juicy. A piece of wine. (160h)
Marcellin Reserve Tanya Winery, Photo: Eyal Keren
Nebiolo Reserve 2019, Mount Odem Winery: The northernmost representative on the map sent us a special and extremely happy wine. The Nebiolo grapes (characteristic of northern Italy), grown in the northern Golan Heights on rich basalt soil, exhibit qualities here that would not embarrass any Barolo. Packed with red and black fruit, supportive oak and earthy characteristics, velvety richness in the mouth that tempts you for another sip. And another. And another small one. For a particularly happy New Year! (170h)
Nebiolo Reserve Har Odem. Photo: Niamko Nimrod Cohen
Yarden Syrah, Yonatan Vineyard 2020, Golan Heights Winery: As part of the company's 40th anniversary events, this Syrah wine was launched, which comes from the Yonatan Vineyard in the central Golan Heights. Deep, opaque ink, a tantalizing nose of blueberries, plums and a dash of violets, along with white pepper, earthiness, smoke and herbs. A soft, caressing body, rich in size, and the tightened tannins will last it another decade or so of enhancement. Like the Golan Heights know how to do. (219h)
Jordan Boat Golan Heights,
Ice Wine 2021, Bat Shlomo Winery:And how can you without something sweet for dessert. A unique dessert wine made from Semyon grapes grown in the Zichron Yaakov area, harvested by hand and immediately transferred to freeze at minus 17 degrees. After a few days, the grapes were squeezed in a slow process that took 24-12 hours, with the sugar level at this stage at about 34%! It is a candy in itself, with the aroma of kumquat orange jam and dried apricot, a delightful sweetness in the oral cavity and a great tart balance. We ran out too quickly. Happy and sweet New Year! (120h, 375ml)
Ice Wine Bat Shlomo, Photo: Bat Shlomo Winery
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