At Sacai, paraded before our eyes one of the most beautiful pants of the season. Of those who make you the thin waist and mileage legs. And above all, gives you a cool, airy look when you wander. Either a black model, eph legs, extremely well cut. Chitose Abe, the founder of this ultra-trendy Japanese label (Pharrell Williams sits in the front row), tightens her remarks, ending with the "exquisite corpse" silhouettes to focus on the essentials. "The simpler we are, the more complete we become," said Auguste Rodin. We can read this quote, in English, on a sleeveless T-shirt worn with our famous favorite pants.
The best pants of the season were spotted on the Sacai show. HIROKAZU OHARA
Friends of trousers, skip your turn: there is nothing for you at Mugler, where girls with all legs do not wear them. They walk in front of the wind blown by huge fans, their trails (seven meters long!) flying like the tentacles of jellyfish. Mariacarla Boscono, Amber Valletta, Helena Christensen, Irina Shayk... The cast is five stars - the audience screams at the passage of Paris Hilton in corset, black mini-jacket and ultra-short skirt open on the thighs. No doubt, Casey Cadwallader puts on a show and even impresses on the more couture pieces (like these dresses made of hundreds of fake nails). But if we find the codes he has imposed since his arrival in the house (tailoring cut-outs, sculptural bodysuits, transparent corsets), all this is sorely lacking clothes for real people... Except faded denim jackets or printed from the seabed.
Paris Hilton in corset, black mini-jacket and ultra-short skirt at the Mugler show. Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Finding the balance between the creative and the "product" is not an easy task, and we have seen several brands break their teeth this season trying to please everyone... To finally (really) please no one. If one name has embodied this balance since the 1990s, it is Maison Margiela. And if the collections are now signed by the brilliant John Galliano, the ethics have not changed. The first black coats revealing the lining at the end of the sleeves (loden new kind, parka with giant pockets), worn with unstructured white shirt or on a simple crossed suit, are desirable at will, as trench coats with sagging shoulders and contrasting belts and jackets in crumpled gray wool. So much for the product, a twisted classic way just right. Then the machine gets carried away, Galliano does what he does best: tank tops in assembly of fitting canvases, sculptural skirts of recovery taped to the gaffer, evening dresses with zipped bustier of crazy elegance and cardboard hats ... All led by the particular approach of the designer's fashion shows. Virtuoso.
Maison Margiela's Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show by John Galliano. Giovanni Giannoni
The poppy may be the symbol of Morpheus, the god of sleep, but we do not fall asleep, at Sunday nap time, at Akris. Albert Kriemler, artistic director of the house founded by his grandmother in 1922, applies it in prints on white suits, patchwork on a minimalist slip dress, and St. Gallen embroidery, the specialty of the Swiss house. But it's not just any poppies... "These are works by Lizzi Rix-Ueno, an artist from the Wiener Werkstätte that I recently discovered and who inspired me a lot," he says backstage. Kriemler loves to use sharp artistic references (bonuses, they are often female artists) and apply them to his chic and minimal wardrobe with precise lines. Abstract prints and watercolors of birds add pep to the white shirt dresses and pants falling just right. And for more discreet customers (there are many), the suits with organza details are very successful.