While food scandals have been in the news in recent years, labels, perceived as "guarantees of quality", invade the shelves of hypermarkets. A paradox for consumers - more and more of whom read labels - who sometimes find it difficult to differentiate between marketing smoke and mirrors and official certification, and who come to wonder who to trust.
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"Label", what is it?
Let's start at the beginning. "We put a lot of things under the name of "label" when we actually talk about "official signs of identification of quality and origin". From "label", there is only the Red Label... This is a mistake of language, explains Jean-Luc Dairien, former director of the National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO). In terms of official certifications, there are only the PDO-AOC and PGI, which guarantee the origin of the products, the Red Label, which guarantees superior quality, the TSG, which attests to the tradition of the recipe, and finally, the acronym Organic Agriculture (AB), which certifies respect for the environment, "continues Jean-Luc Dairien. But between all these acronyms, what are the differences? Which can be trusted with your eyes closed?
Read alsoAB, Bio coherence, Demeter... What are French organic labels really worth?
What are the "official labels"?
The official certifications that can be trusted with your eyes closed. DP brands
Controlled and protected designations of origin: AOC and PDO
In France, there are 51 dairy products benefiting from the Protected Designation of Origin (mainly cheeses). This official acronym, granted by the public authorities and subject to a regulatory charter, guarantees the consumer that all stages of production (of the said cheese) have been carried out in the defined geographical area of the appellation, according to recognized know-how. In summary: "We assure the consumer of the origin of the milk used, the place where the fermentation of the cheese is carried out and the know-how of the farmer," summarizes Jean-Luc Dairien. What about the Appellation d'origine contrôlée? "The PDO is the European equivalent of the AOC," adds the director of INAO. "The European Union preferred the term PDO when in France the term AOC was already historically used," he adds. Indeed, initially created in France to fight against fraud, at the beginning of the twentieth century, the Appellations of Origin now make it possible to preserve the control, typicity and authenticity of local products. Camembert from Normandy, chicken from Bresse, some wines from Bordeaux, or butter from Charentes are PDOs.
By whom are these labels issued?
By the public authorities, INAO or a certifying body that is accredited by the French Accreditation Committee (Cofrac) after several checks and verifications. "There are specifications for each type of product in each region," explains Jean-Luc Dairien.
Protected geographical indication: PGI
Let's go back to the example of cheese. The PGI certifies to the consumer that at least one of the stages of milk production up to the ripening of Roquefort, for example, has been carried out in the defined geographical area of the appellation, according to a specific charter and recognized know-how. Tomme de Savoie, Guérande salt or Bayonne ham are PGIs. "The relationship between the product and its origin is less strong than for the PDO but sufficient to confer a characteristic or reputation to a product," adds Jean-Luc Dairien.
Traditional speciality guaranteed: STG In France, only one product holds the STG
designation. These are the mussels of Bouchot. This sign aims to define the composition or traditional mode of production of a product. As for geographical indications (PDO-AOC, PGI), the rules for drawing up a TSG are set out in specifications and are subject to control procedures.
Organic farming: AB
Created in 1985 by the Ministry of Agriculture, the acronym "Organic Farming" guarantees a production method respectful of the environment and the animal (among other things, use of GMOs prohibited). Namely, "only food products containing at least 95% of certified organic agricultural ingredients can include the terms "organic" or "organic" in their sales name (examples: organic puree, organic compote)", details the website of the Ministry of the Economy. And which products can be affected by this certification? Vegetables, fruits, fish, cheeses or meat. The real question is more: what can't be organic?
Label rouge
This is a French label that mainly concerns eggs and poultry, meat, cold cuts, seafood and dairy products. The Label rouge guarantee attests to the superior quality of one product compared to another: an exceptional smoked salmon, a refined foie gras or a ribeye of rare quality... Rare enough, exceptional and refined to note. As with other 'official signs of identification of quality and origin', products with the Red Label label are subject to specifications and regular checks.
What about the others?
"Private 'labels' can be very interesting but they are simply not controlled by the state, and offer no real guarantee of quality and respond to private interests," explains Jean-Luc Dairien. DP brands
Therein lies the confusion. While there are only five "official signs of quality and origin", there are many more "marketing" labels. Between "Meat of France", "Origin France guaranteed", "Elected product of the year" or "Recognized flavor of the year", consumers have something to be lost. Not that they are "impostor labels", on the contrary "they can be very interesting", admits the former director of INAO, "but they are simply not controlled by the State, offer no real guarantee of quality and respond to private interests".
"Product of the Year"
For example, the sign "Elected product of the year", a "label" that boils down to a vast marketing operation. The principle? After a paid application, the products are sorted by categories and sent to a large sample of people who then answer a questionnaire. The product with the highest number of votes wins the "Product of the Year" logo, and can use it throughout its communication for one year. Provided, of course, that you have paid a "right to use the logo". A real guarantee of confidence? It's up to you to judge.
Read alsoFour organic labels to know to eat healthier
The "Recognized Flavor of the Year" award evaluates the appearance, smell, texture and taste of several foods during a sensory tasting carried out by at least 120 consumers. To be "Recognized Flavor of the Year", the product must score higher than 14/20. It remains to be seen, here too, if the criteria are sufficient to claim to elect the flavor of the year? Finally, although the 'Viande de France' label guarantees the origin of animals born, raised, slaughtered, cut and processed into France, it does not offer any guarantee in terms of meat quality. The "Origine France garantie" label effectively certifies the French origin of the product. And if it is recognized and recommended by the Ministry of the Economy, it is not issued by the INAO. What to see more clearly in this waltz of labels.
This article was originally published on January 5, 2017 and has been updated.