Document
The Stripe
Classic Argentinian grill. San Martín 1157, Retiro. CABA.
Phone 11 63464260
Opening hours Monday to Saturday, noon and evening. Sunday at noon.
Instagram @laraya.restaurant
Average cutlery price $15,000 (without drinks and with service included).
There are restaurants that, due to the type of offer and the history, become gastronomic icons of a city, to the point of becoming authentic depositories of its culinary identity. Every city in the world has them.
They are establishments that passed between different generations, that accompanied countries during wars, dictatorships, political and social changes, crises and economic bonanzas and that, of course, knew how to defend themselves from the gastronomic trends and movements that inexorably appear with the passage of time.
Places that, due to their personality and food, manage to captivate the hearts and palates of ordinary people and "celebrities". Transversal areas, which go beyond the time and social status of their clients. A law rules between its tables: eat and have a good time. Always.
The history of La Raya grill
In 1943 Carlos Vinagre opened the doors of his grill, located in Piñeyro (Avellaneda district) in the southern area of Greater Buenos Aires. Thanks to the quality of its meats and meats, pampered by the wisdom of its grillers, it quickly achieved great acceptance among a heterogeneous public to which neighbors, footballers, businessmen, politicians and tango fans belong.
Diners had the possibility to mark their order directly on the order specifying up to the desired doneness. In its eighty years of life, the place was the subject of four moves that did not affect its reputation and did not prevent this grill model from being an inspirational muse for many restaurants dedicated to grilled meats.
At La Raya there are "usual" waiters. Photo: Fernando de la Orden.
The last move was made a few months ago. Final destination: the Retiro neighborhood. Claudio Codina is in charge of maintaining the family legacy left by his grandfather Carlos Vinagre.
Eight decades of validity and splendor in the world of Buenos Aires grills are no small feat. White tablecloths still protect the tables. The soda siphon accompanies red meats and wines. Raúl and José, the historic waiters of the house, move between tables with skill and discretion.
The Salon of La Raya. Photo: Fernando de la Orden.
The magical hands of Danielito, the griller, continue to imprint the flavor and point of very high quality meats and achuras from grass-fed animals. The menu is the same as always, a tribute to the great fetish of national gastronomy: the sacred Argentinian cow.
What to eat in La Raya
It is one of the few places in the city where you can taste chinchulines de chivito. Tender, delicate, with an elegant and subtle flavour. Protein "rollers", cooked to perfection, capable of unleashing the pleasure, in the palate and heart, of lovers of achuras.
The special strip roast in the center is the heyday of this antonomastic cut. Presented in flag format, it has good thickness, an ideal ratio between meat and fat, a successful cooking point, tenderness and flavour that seduce the taste buds.
The chinchulines of La Raya. Photo: Fernando de la Orden.
The vacuum (of the fine) does not exceed three centimeters in height. Free of superfluous fat and roasted to perfection, it offers moments of succulent enjoyment. Potatoes are golden and slightly crispy sticks that cannot be missing next to meats.
The formula of the house's chimichurri is an inimitable sweet secret that offers the perfect balance to accompany the chosen cuts. Close with the classic pancake with dulce de leche.