Christmas markets in the Black Forest: handicrafts, food and bonfires in a magical atmosphere

The essentials are invisible to the eye, at least this year here, at the Christmas Market in the city of Karlsruhe, in the northern Black Forest, and at least now on the longest nights of the year, when Advent is celebrated before Christmas. The phrase from The Little Prince can describe the scene: "It's half past seven o'clock, it's night, and all around me everyone is looking up and shouting: Weihnachtsmann! "Santa Claus, Santa Claus, Santa Claus—Once, twice, even three times."

Immediately, a reindeer carriage appears above the stalls selling handicrafts and traditional food, followed by sparks. I look around me and see with surprise that the childlike light shines in the eyes of the elderly and children, students and adults as if, in spite of everything, this instant awakens something hidden in them. Why? Wonder. Next to me, a middle-aged man explains it to me: "Last year there were hardly any lights in the markets due to the need to save electricity in response to the war between Russia and Ukraine, the year before there were controls to prevent the passage of those not vaccinated against covid-19. Everything came to a halt the year before. Three years without normal Christmas markets! In all the previous ones we thought they were finished, but here they are," says Thomas, a father and computer scientist in his 50s, with confidence. "Maybe that's why people are so excited, how could they not be!" he insists.

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Ettlingen, a passion for simplicity?

Maybe that's why. After all, that same sparkle also shines in the eyes of some attendees at the Christmas market in the small town of Ettlingen – 40,000 inhabitants, many immigrants or refugees from all over the world and melange of faiths. Here, at night, the first thing you see is a reminder that these German markets have been popular since the first one is known – the <>th century in Dresden – there is a humble little train with iron carriages covered in plastic that circles in a few square meters and is almost full – the children love it—. The ticket seller sells tickets at alittle stall so tiny that, with it inside, it looks like an alternate version of Alice in Wonderland.

The streets of Ettlingen decorated with Christmas lights. Bridge Community Project / Alamy / CORDON PRESS

But we are in Germany, very close to the place where the Brothers Grimm were born and, of course, there are gigantic posters where you can read a story that explains that a poor girl, helped by her animals, invented a cake to feed the other poorer children. In the Sternlesmarkt market, or in English, the market of the little stars, there are old people pushing their tacatá, young people wearing kefia (Palestinian headscarves), couples who speak Russian and Ukrainian and pushing strollers. There are entire families, gangs and lonely people devouring sausages, pumpkin soups on sesame breads, roasted chestnuts, spinach balls accompanied by cranberry sauce or wild boar at more than affordable prices. It rains on all of them, and here again, in the eyes of many of them, sparks shine brightly, as if they were still children. Why?

Karlsruhe Christmas Market in Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany. mauritius images GmbH / Alamy / CORDON PRESS

Dancing on traditional and foreign memory

The answer begins to appear at the Christmas Market in the medieval town of Durlach where, under light bulbs of all sizes that illuminate stalls and stages, there are dozens of bonfires to which the public stokes and puts logs. A singer plays tunes byAC/DC, Tina Turner and Leonard Cohen that, oblivious to the Christmas season, people dance and sing with fervor. There is also a blacksmith who casts incandescent iron, a woman named Valentina who weaves a cap with silk threads very close to the fire; giant pots in which fabrics are dyed over bonfires that crackle like thunderbolts. "I love this," says a woman from Cali in front of the fire. "It's beautiful," she insists, and in her eyes, again, that sparkle that shines.

The town hall of Gengenbach (Germany) decorated for Christmas. Patrick Seeger (picture alliance/Getty Images)

In Gengenbach, a small, spectacular medieval town that can be reached by train, buses and cars from all over the country visit the market. Located in the square of half-timbered houses, hundreds of people stand glued to each other to watch the show. Every day a play is staged and today the children have become elves who perform in front of the craft and food stalls. "I'm a weaver and a painter, I also make traditional biscuits to sell here," says a woman nearby who sells bags of traditional biscuits that everyone eats here at this time of year. They are made of cinnamon, star anise or almonds.

Lunch at the various stalls of the Black Forest Christmas markets. ELENA GARCIA

In the Black Forest, very close to where Herman Hesse [German writer and poet] was born and Chekhov [Russian storyteller, playwright and doctor] died, there are many more markets, hundreds and thousands across the country, and almost each one offers something different. In the four weeks leading up to the Christmas party and the winter solstice, which is the longest night of the year, there are markets that, like the one in Gengenbach, turn the walls of the town hall into an Advent calendar, there are star walks like the one in Bühlertal, villages that dress up as nativity scenes like Bamlach.

Among all the craft stalls there is one that catches my attention because of its simplicity. Bethlehem, nativity scenes made with Bethlehem wood, says their inscription. ELENA GARCIA

In Baden-Baden, a city known for the baths that treated Victor Hugo and Nietzsche and for having the casino that inspired Dostoyevsky, the market attracts thousands of people. Among all the craft stalls there is one that catches my attention because of its simplicity: Bethlehem, nativity scenes made with Bethlehem wood, says its inscription. The image drags Palestine and its war, Bethlehem and the child that is born for Christians as a symbol of inner peace and joy. Mimicking the environment and the mind, in Bethlehem I close my eyes and dream, a wish: May the spark that shines in the eyes of so many people these days and here ignite the fire of their joy, may peace be reborn again.

Baden-Baden, a city renowned for the thermal baths that treated Victor Hugo and Nietzsche. Panther Media GmbH / Alamy / CORDON PRESS

Elena García Quevedo holds a PhD in Information Sciences, is a writer and screenwriter, and also worked as a correspondent in Jerusalem. She is the author of Luz, la niña shamán, El viaje de las mujeres or La voz de los sabios and co-screenwriter of documentary films such as Winter in Baghdad or Invisibles.

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