There are places that exude a more Parisian charm than contemporary Paris itself: they brim with elegance, sophistication and mastery.
Among them, Maxim's stands out, a century-old institution that has changed hands with the noble mission of regaining its status as a gastronomic and social destination for the elites of Paris.
In its heyday, Maxim's hosted big stars who left an indelible mark.
The crimson façade at 3 rue Royale, somewhere between the Seine and the Eiffel Tower, has become an iconic symbol of the city.
Immortalized in films like
Gigi
, directed by Vincente Minnelli and winner of multiple Oscars in 1959, and captured in iconic magazine moments—such as the image of Brigitte Bardot walking barefoot in the sixties or the meeting of Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin in the seventies—Maxim's has been part of Parisian history.
Facade of Maxim's, in Paris.
Since October 2023, Paris Society, a prestigious group in the French restaurant and hospitality sector founded by businessman Laurent de Gourcuff, has taken over the management of Maxim's with the ambitious goal of reviving its legend.
Over the last 15 years, the company has taken over restaurants and nightclubs such as Raspoutine or Girafe, known for its seafood and fish on a terrace with stunning views of the Eiffel Tower.
Gourcuff was captivated by the magical, timeless atmosphere of Maxim's which he considers, as he put it in the opening statement, “unquestionably the strongest restaurant brand in the world.”
Upon entering the restaurant, the service shares curious stories about the history of the place, such as that the table at which we are placed was reserved exclusively for the magnate Aristotle Onassis in the past, in case he decided to dine at the last minute.
The table has a privileged view of the spectacle that enlivens the dinner and is located next to Maxim's characteristic stained glass window, inspired by the plant and animal world and the imagination of women.
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This design is obsessively displayed throughout the restaurant and served as inspiration for the creation of one of the iconic champagne bottles.
Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque, which, of course, is served at Maxim's.
Furthermore, on the cocktail menu, we find a selection that pays tribute to distinguished clients of the past, among which personalities such as Onassis, Barbra Streisand and Audrey Hepburn stand out (19 euros).
The fascinating history of the establishment, which so attracted the well-known people of
tout-Paris,
dates back to 1893, when the waiter Maxime Gaillard, according to the restaurant, opened a small bistro on the rue Royale.
That year, Irma de Montigny, a young Parisian actress, walked into Maxim's during the Prix de Diane equestrian championship and she was so impressed with this place that she promised to help launch it.
Lobster, salad and truffle vinaigrette.
Image provided by the property.Romain Ricard
During the 1900 World's Fair, Maxim's became one of the fashionable restaurants in Paris, under the management of Eugène Cornuché.
This French entrepreneur attracted the popular artists of the School of Nancy, transforming the establishment into a temple of Art Nouveau, now classified as a historical monument in France.
They say their secret to attracting the elite was to always have a woman sitting visible from the sidewalk.
In 1932, restaurateur Octave Vaudable bought the restaurant, requiring suits to be worn and favoring wealthy clientele.
Later, in 1981, fashion designer Pierre Cardin, a regular client, took over the business so that the house would remain in French hands, “since the Vaudables were going to sell it to sheikhs,” says Pierre-André Hélène, curator of Maxim's museum for 13 years.
Businessman Laurent de Gourcuff, of Paris Society, who now manages the restaurant.
Image provided by the establishment.
During Cardin's tenure, the ground floor was preserved and the first floor, which had been modernized in the 1960s, was restored.
An elevator was also installed in the building, the façade was restored identical to how it was in 1900, and the former owners' apartment, as well as part of the offices, which corresponded to the third and fourth floors, were transformed into the Art Nouveau museum. which Hélène managed until 2018. The current management of the Pierre Cardin brand, through Rodrigo Basilicati, nephew of the designer who died in 2020, has entrusted the management of the restaurant to Paris Society for four years, details Hélène.
In the opinion of expert Hélène, the distinctive essence of Maxim's remains intact.
With the change of address, “it has not changed at all, since there has not been any modification in the spaces, except in the kitchen.”
However, she recognizes a positive change introduced by Paris Society, highlighting the transformation of the first floor into a bar: “it was like that before and Pierre Cardin no longer wanted it.”
The bar is independent of the restaurant and those who do not have a dinner reservation are welcome to have a drink or something to nibble, such as a terrine of
foie gras
with toasted brioche (42 euros), a cocktail (15 to 19 euros) or a glass of wine (from 12 euros).
Despite preserving the essence of the place, Hélène highlights that Maxim's faces the challenge of attracting younger generations who seem to “ignore everything.”
He claims that Maxim's is a Parisian myth.
“The myth of elegance, the spirit, the symbol of ancient France.
And therein lies the problem.
There is no clientele for that anymore.
"The younger generations are completely unaware of it," according to the conservative, who considers that the words elegance, spirit and distinction are no longer part of the vocabulary of contemporary elites.
Maxim's has instituted a smart dress code for women and requires jackets for men.
Remember to bring it, as the restaurant does not offer jackets in case you forget.
The menu rescues refined French bourgeois cuisine almost in its entirety.
Hélène suggests that the dish that could establish a link with the previous menu is the sole, reinterpreted, or the
crêpes
that were previously Veuve Joyeuse—a Maxim's own recipe, filled with a delicate
soufflé
and lemon aroma—and are now Suzettes.
Cocktail with champagne.
Image provided by the establishment.RICARD ROMAIN
From the new menu - Paris Society has not wanted to give details about the chef - some gastronomic delights stand out such as the VGE truffle soup, created by the prestigious late chef Paul Bocuse for President Valéry Giscard d'Estaing for his admission to the rank of Knight of the Legion of Honor (33 euros).
It also offers American-style lobster, prepared with tomato sauce, white wine and cognac (78 euros);
scallops with the classic
beurre blanc
sauce , a delicious combination of butter and white wine (41 euros, 71 euros with caviar);
or the
Rossini tournedó
, a sirloin sautéed in butter, covered with black truffle and
foie gras
(60 euros).
To top off the experience, pastry chef Yann Couvreur reinterprets some desserts, in addition to the
crêpes
(18 euros), such as the floating island — a meringue dessert on a crème anglaise base (14 euros) — or the
chocolate
mousse
soufflé
(16 euros).
Chocolate mousse 'soufflé'.
Image provided by the establishment.
The evening at Maxim's extends from 6 p.m. until well after midnight, offering a complete experience that fuses history, elegance and refined Parisian gastronomy.
According to Gourcuff, “the goal of Paris Society is to revive the myth of Maxim's, perpetuate the legend, restore its prestige and maintain it as an iconic, elegant and festive place where customers can enjoy dances, songs and their meetings.”
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