What creates the aura of makeup?
It is this mystery that guided the beauty of the fashion show for Dior's spring-summer 2024 haute couture collection, unveiled at the Rodin Museum in Paris, Monday January 22.
“The idea was to take a very banal element and see what it would do to each person.
If you reproduce this same pencil stroke on someone, it will be constantly renewed because each model will create something unique,” replies Peter Philips, creative and image director for makeup at Dior.
The element in question?
The line of black kohl under the eyes.
“All the girls have tried it before, but on some it's more sensual, on others it's more punk or more aggressive.
This is why each one has its own aura,” adds the specialist.
Backstage at the Dior haute couture spring-summer 2024 show. Imaxtree
Blur effect
To reveal the models' magnetism, “I applied a black waterproof eye pencil to the lining of the lower lashline.
Then, I asked them to blink by forcing their eyes.
This creates a blurred effect, as if the black had left a trace,” explains Peter Philips.
“Then, I added an additional layer of pencil which I lightly blended with a cotton swab, extending a little over the outer corner of the lower lash line and extending it to the sides.
Thus, the emphasis is placed on the line under the eyes, which intensifies the look.”
No need to add mascara to the lashes, which are simply curled.
What results in a few minutes is a captivating inverted smoky-eye that enhances each model in a different way for each, sometimes seeming grunge, sometimes lascivious.
Read alsoReverse eyeliner: the new make-up trend to wear the “cat eye” differently
Don't worry if the result isn't perfect.
“It’s not a question of creating a very clear line, but rather a makeup that has “lived”.
It’s a somewhat casual look, which could seem effortless,” continues the make-up artist, before specifying: “On the other hand, the color must not protrude onto the surface of the mobile eyelid, which must remain very clean. ".
Backstage at the Dior Haute Couture spring-summer 2024 show. Imaxtree
So that the look can capture all the attention, the rest of the face is discreet.
The mouth is simply hydrated with a lip balm while the complexion remains nude, “very neutral, without highlighter or contouring, because it is the light of the scenography which naturally sculpts the face”.
Backstage at the Dior Haute Couture spring-summer 2024 show. Imaxtree
Guests at the Dior haute couture spring-summer 2024 show in Paris
In images, in pictures
See the slideshow14 photos
See the slideshow14 photos