A tent in a London park, a cockney soundtrack (this time, Amy Winehouse), a slew of celebrities with British passports (from rappers Skepta and Dizzee Rascal to actress Olivia Colman)... Such is the formula chosen by Burberry for its shows - undoubtedly the most anticipated of fashion week across the Channel - since the arrival of Daniel Lee at its head.
This Monday evening, it was in Victoria Park, in the east of the city, that the most prestigious label in the United Kingdom set up shop.
Also read: Daniel Lee: “Burberry is one of the rare luxury houses born from clothing, in this case a coat”
Burberry Filippo Fior
For the 38-year-old English designer, this third collection is already decisive: just one year after his first show, he has already profoundly changed the house of trench coats and tartan, by focusing communication on his
Britishness
.
In a tense economic context (in January, the brand announced that it would lower its turnover forecasts for the year), the task, and therefore the pressure on its shoulders, is gigantic: transform Burberry into a capable fashion brand to compete with the French and Italian luxury giants, by presenting its identity in ready-to-wear, but also bags, shoes... The exercise is not the easiest.
But finally, Lee seems to have found the right tone, the right balance between heritage and novelty, between nostalgia (Agyness Deyn, English model who had the heyday of the label in the 2000s, at the time of Christopher Bailey) and his own language nourished by bourgeois and other more
working class
codes .
Agyness Deyn shows for Burberry Filippo Fior
Thanks to this balance, he signed his most accomplished collection for Burberry.
“
I had in mind all the people who wear Burberry, and these different characters – from football fans at the stadium or in the pub, to the royal family – who love the brand and make it unique,”
he explains behind the scenes.
I have never worked for such a popular brand, which speaks to so many people from different backgrounds.
I think it's essential in a house like this to have a strong point of view.
Because if we try to please everyone, we often end up pleasing no one...
" Precisely what we could criticize him for in previous seasons.
And that we should spare him this time.
Burberry Filippo Fior
Trench coats (slightly) revisited in moleskin, parkas in washed cotton adjustable with zips, wide suits in thick woolens, short jackets in the style of duffle coats with fur collars and other reinterpretations of the traditional British wardrobe alongside loose pants in zipped tartans, (very) low-cut V-neck sweaters, and, for women, leather skirts lined with tartan, faux pleated kilts, strapless tartan dresses, large double-breasted leather coats with feather details on the sleeves.. On the head, like an Elizabeth II kerchief, the classic scarf, in several
check
versions .
All carried by a British cast (and Burberry), from Lily Cole and Edie Campbell to Lennon Gallagher, the son of Liam, the singer of Oasis, and Maya Wingram, the daughter of Phoebe Philo of whom Lee is one disciples.
“
It’s a vision of elegance focused on the outdoors, obviously, because it’s our identity.
But we can't just make trench coats.
People will always be able to come to us for that, but we must go further, offer something new.
»