It was never really sympathetic to walk through Schocken Street in Tel Aviv, with its narrow sidewalks, dirt, garages and rehearsal rooms. But it can certainly be said that there is a tiny cultural and culinary scene that could even be called underground. A few months ago, the Artel Formal restaurant opened at the beginning and has already won titles such as "South Tel Aviv's Next Hit" and "The Hot Place of the Moment". In light of the area in which it is located, it can be said candidly that it is not easy to get to this warm place from the city center and certainly not from more remote areas - usually there are not good enough reasons - but there is no doubt that they managed to create a kind of bubble, a quiet, elegant and clean corner with a pleasant and European atmosphere in the middle of the chaos.
Bubble in the middle of Schocken in Tel Aviv // Photo: Hila Dudal
The restaurant space is enveloped by soft yellowish lighting, tables covered with elegant cloth tablecloths are scattered in a space that is relatively distant from each other, opposite which is a spacious wooden bar with an open kitchen behind it. Relaxing jazz music is in the background. The food was served to us in pottery with different prints that seemed to be taken from my grandparents' house. The place was founded by Dor Wenger and Mika Elkayam, who previously worked in chef restaurants such as Santa Catarina, Weiss led by Gil Dahan and Jerusalem Mona by Chef Moshiko Gamlieli.
The place recently opened for a breakfast-lunch on Fridays that turned out to be different in the Tel Aviv landscape, one that was fun to experience slowly, enjoy the atmosphere and even leave the place last.
Tart Tatten, Photo: Hila Dudal
The waitress who came to the table defined the meal as brunch with Eastern European style dishes and French influences, and indeed the menu featured dishes such as stuffed eggs (the only egg dish you will find in the meal) or latex.
First came to the table refreshing cocktails concocted so that they correspond with the food. A dish of fresh sourdough breads with rich butter was also placed to open. We then tasted a "tartar de boeuf" dish. The shittel tartare was placed in the center of the plate with fries around it - a sight that initially made us raise an eyebrow. Its texture was rough and had intense Eastern European flavours. There was a sense of spiciness, including the chopped onion, the sour and prickly flavors of capers and pickles jumped on the palate and mustard ballet in the background. The taste of the meat was not pronounced at all and it added mainly to the texture. Tartar could have been made with quieter flavors, but that was probably the poet's intention. Finally the fries also turned out to add to the overall experience.
Latkes,
We also ordered a tarte tatan whose name implied that it was inspired by the pastry that originated in France and did it a disservice, since it came as a pastry made of puff pastry unlike the familiar tart. Those who miss the moment they bite into it for the crunch and softness of the dough may be disappointed. On top were placed caramelized onions, fresh pesto, roasted cherry tomatoes and a tart and well-seasoned leafy salad.
We also enjoyed the Niçoise salad with pickled tuna which included crispy leaves, a soft boiled egg just the right way, asparagus, potato, kalamata olives and pickled lemon vinaigrette. A simple, light, fresh and fresh dish with quality products. Another excellent dish was soft "latkes" which came three on a plate topped with crème fraiche and caviar.
As with an Eastern European grandmother, photo: Hila Dudal
The best thing about the meal came at the end. Medovic cake, Russian layer cake of sour cream and honey with caramel, herbs and citrus. Simple and luxurious. She, too, felt like a grandmother's dish of Eastern European descent.
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