In a fashion world dominated largely by men in key roles, Chloé, the legendary French fashion brand founded by Gabriella "Gabi" Aghion seven decades ago, recently made headlines when it appointed Chamena Kamali as in-house designer last October. Aegion's vision, based on design for women by women, continues with Kamali's inauguration, continuing a legacy of influential creative directors who have shaped the brand's aesthetics over the years. Kamali, a graduate of Parsons School of Design in New York who previously worked under renowned designers Chloé, Phoebe Philo and Claire White Keller, embodies the spirit that Agion envisioned for the brand with an effortless, feminine aesthetic and imbued with an implicit bohemian spirit.
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The roots of the fashion house Chloé and the groundbreaking woman behind its founding are the subject of the exhibition "The Mood of the Moment: Gabby Aghion and the House of Chloé," currently on display at the Jewish Museum in New York and will run until February 18, 2024. This exhibition reviews the early years of the Chloé House, and features iconic ensembles reflecting the brand's evolution. At the same time, it also sheds light on Aghion's life, her revolutionary approach to fashion, and the lasting impact of her work. A week after the exhibition closes, by the way, Paris Fashion Week will begin for the fall/winter 2024/25 season, and will of course include the Chloé collection, the new in-house designer's first.
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Gabi Agion, originally Gabriel Hanukkah, was born in Alexandria, Egypt to a wealthy Jewish family of Greek-Italian origin in 1921. Her father owned a tobacco factory, and her mother was a housewife with a deep fondness for French fashion. In their home there were regularly French fashion magazines that Gabby the girl flipped through with great interest. Mother and daughter used to hire seamstresses who created their favorite models for them. This occupation, together with the French she spoke thanks to an excellent private education, were an excellent basis for the beginning of Gabi's fashion career. At the age of 19, she married Raymond Aghion, a member of a wealthy Italian Jewish cotton exporting family. They met in elementary school, when they were seven years old. Despite his high class origins, Raymond Aghion had socialist views, which influenced his wife.
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In 1939, Gabi visited Paris for the first time. She accompanied her husband to continue her medical studies, but the outbreak of World War II caused the couple to return to Egypt temporarily. In 1945 they returned to Paris, and were involved in bohemian life and the city's intellectual elite at the time. Among others, they befriended Tristan Tzara, Paul Eluar and Pablo Picasso.
A central point in Aghion's life was in 1952. Rumor has it that she told her husband, "I have to work, it's not enough for me just to have lunch," and founded a fashion brand that became one of the first luxury brands for women (and women only). At a time when buying fashionable clothes in stores was scarce, she sought to democratize fashion by offering ready-to-wear clothing with a unique style. She named the brand she founded after a friend, and launched her first line with six dresses inspired by Egyptian sports clubs sewn in her apartment.
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Her approach to fashion was revolutionary; From a socialist perspective, its goal was to bring quality fashion to masses of women, emphasizing calmer and lighter designs in contrast to the rigid and tailored suits of the time. She rejected traditional methods of displaying collections, opting for occasional breakfast presentations at popular Parisian establishments such as the Café de Flore on Avenue Saint-Germain on the Left Bank. The style was relaxed, easy to adjust and change. Among her clients at the time were Jacqueline Kennedy, Brigitte Bardot, Maria Callas, and Grace Kelly. In 1971, Chloé's first boutique opened in Paris. Gabby's vision and shrewdness paid off. The dresses were a huge success and business soared.
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Aegion's genius lay not in her design skills, but in her ability to curate talent. Her brand initially operated as a collective, showcasing designs by various independent designers, including a young Karl Lagerfeld, who joined Chloé in 1963. Then, in 1966, he assumed sole control of the house's designs and served as creative director until 1983, when he was replaced by Stella McCarthy. Lagerfeld's work in Chloé played a major role in forming the mood of each moment, as he described it. Hence, of course, the name of the exhibition. In 1985, Gaby Aghion sold her stake in Chloé to Dunhill Corporation, now known as Richemont, a luxury conglomerate that continues to own the brand. Despite the change in ownership, she did not sever her ties with the brand, as her influence lasted until her death in 2014 at the age of 93.
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Gabby Aghion's precedent-setting spirit and vision continue to influence House Chloé's identity, ensuring that her influence on the fashion world remains enduring Today's in-house designer, Xamena Kamali, is known for her exemplary use of textures and colors, often incorporating vintage-inspired romantic elements into her creations. For Chloé, she aims to combine historical heritage with a contemporary sensibility, focusing on items that are both timeless and relevant to the modern woman.
The exhibition "The Mood of the Moment: Gabby Aghion and the Chloe House" at the Jewish Museum in New York pays tribute to the contribution of the woman who dared to redefine the fashion landscape and demonstrates through iconic historical models from the 60s, 70s and 80s, the implicit bohemian spirit of the brand that has become synonymous with the Chloé brand. The narrative is interwoven through the change of leadership, with designers such as Stella McCartney and Claire White Keller (who designed her adorable wedding dress for Bar Refaeli) leaving an indelible mark on the identity of the house.
As the fashion world evolves, Chloé's commitment to celebrating the essence of femininity continues. With Chamena Kamali taking the reins, Gabi Aghion's legacy continues, weaving a narrative that transcends time and trends. The exhibition at the Jewish Museum serves as a poignant reminder of the unwavering spirit that continues to characterize Chloé – a brand that now more than ever embraces the 'mood of the moment'.
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