The name of Pierre Gagnaire carries with it the guarantee of a whimsical but fortiche cuisine, the promise of brilliance and a poetry that springs from the titles of the menu.
It is therefore full of enthusiasm that we have assigned ourselves the mission of going to discover its two southern branches in Aix-en-Provence and Nîmes, with the ambition of designating for our readers the one that makes the most sparks. .
Impossible mission.
To discover
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Because Âma Terra, the table of Aix, produces no spark.
It is all the more incomprehensible that Pierre Gagnaire has placed at its head an old accomplice, Jean-Denis Le Bras, once known in Bordeaux (late La Grande Maison) and who has the shoulders to send wonderful dishes.
However, in the disconcerting setting of the Villa Saint-Ange (sconces with electric candles, crystal chandeliers, illustrated screens, succulents perched on columns and vases spewing up fabric flowers, a thousand leagues from the Gagnairian aesthetic), nothing never will.
Except the little puff pastry...
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