Fluid couture for Valentino's Ziggy Stardust - Lifestyle

The one that was seen parading by Valentino could be a modern day Ziggy Stardust, with its explosive load of ambiguous elegance, the incarnation of a contemporary gender fluid generation, perfect clientele for a unisex style, made up of tailored garments, easy to exchange. between her and him, without season, time and genre. There is all the charm of the character created by David Bowie in the seventies, with the complicity of the Japanese designer Kamsai Yamamoto who designed the clothes, in the transgender figure protagonist of the new Valentino haute couture collection, signed by his creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli , which parades, due to a pandemic, among marbles and period paintings of the Baroque Great Hall of the Gallery of Palazzo Colonna in Rome. A fashion show shown in a video presented online, but which is part of the Parisian high fashion week. The music is by Robert Del Naja, a British artist famous as a writer, who many refer to as the mysterious graffiti artist Bansky, and his musical group Massive Attack. His collaboration with Piccioli also resulted in an artwork recorded in a video, which sees the work of tailoring as the protagonist. It will be presented on Friday 29 January. Meanwhile, hardly distinguishable models and models parade on the catwalk. Maria Carla Boscono opens with a white cashmere cape made from dozens of squares of precious wool. Another cape in double fuchsia cashmere follows. Boys with long pistachio-colored gloves worn over beige sweaters embroidered with gold sequins, or with trompe l'oeil velvet rose coats as luxurious as a fur coat. That futurist character for the time, designed by David Bowie, seems to be embodied in the outfit of the all-over embroidered trouser suit with gold sequins, worn with the perfectly cut double cashmere coat. To support the concept of transgender, however, there are cuissards and gold-colored shoes with 20 cm high plateaus: "the inspiration comes from Venetian slippers and from Leigh Bowery (drag queen and Australian designer ed). But I also had to lengthen the figure . After all, my silhouette is vertical - Piccioli specifies -, then the perfection of high fashion is boring for me, I wanted some disturbing notes ". In reality "Rituals - he admits - the process, the values ​​of couture have no time. They exalt the human: the mind that thinks, the hand that executes and ennobles. Through a work that abstracts from time, producing timeless objects, molded on person. But to tell the story of high fashion I wanted a different point of view from my own. The time code of this recoded couture has in fact become a digital story with Robert Del Naja and Mario Klingemann, creative partner ". "Women and men - Piccioli explains - for the first time they go up together on the Valentino couture catwalk, fluidly. With a wardrobe that multiplies the possibilities". "Verticality - he reveals - is understood as a tension in which what is complex resolves itself into simplicity. The fabric as a material ennobled by the work of the hand, as a texture that invites discovery to surprise". Thus the shirt becomes a woven fabric; the solid surface teems with petals, dematerializes in folds of ribbons, in squares of double cashmere, as in the white hoods that seem to be made of origami. What speaks are the lines, simple in appearance, but in reality complex, the grain of the fabrics and the texture of the leather worked in gut, put together with needle and thread, to compose what seem simple sweaters, or column-dresses, while instead they are masterpieces of craftsmanship. Warm colors are interrupted by cool tones, beiges and cream are illuminated by acrylic flashes of highlight green and lime yellow. The preciousness is in the thousands of sequins that cover the apricot dance skirt, so fluid that it seems to be made of water. The dazzling light of pearls and crystals illuminates the hooded silver mesh dress, which does not clash at all next to the dress with the flou green ballon skirt in scuba fabric. (