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Eric Kaiser has not yet landed here.

After this meal he's not sure he should

It started with a romantic French feel, continued with a table that could not stand the load, and ended with disappointing pastries

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• Mason Kaiser

Avi Efrati

Thursday, 10 June 2021, 06:00 Updated: 06:50

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Mason Kaiser in Tel Aviv (Photos: Shai Neiburg)

France has always been the mother addict of the restaurant scene in Israel.

Her eyes were always on her.

Most modern restaurants in Israel have operated and operate on the basis of techniques from French cuisine.

And yet, in recent years, relatively few real French restaurants have operated here.

To the delicious Instagram page of Walla!

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Maison Kaiser, which began operating after the Corona in the square at the west end of Rothschild Boulevard, where Bar-a-Win used to operate, is a classic French net restaurant.

As such, it is expected to fill part of this space, which has begun to expand in recent years.

It is a branch of the great Eric Kaiser, who is considered by many to be the greatest baker in France.

Adjacent to the restaurant, in the space where the Da-Da-Da was located at the time, there is also a patisserie / bolognese and there is also a patisserie-bolognese cafe in the Tel Aviv port, which was opened for takeaway during the corona.

Tel Aviv flop

On the first visit there were alarms, missiles and a mess here.

It was better than the second time

To the full article

To fill the void.

The queue for the Maison Kaiser in the Tel Aviv port (Photo: Reuven Castro)

Before referring to the Maison Kaiser, a few words must be said about the history of French-Israeli initiatives of its kind.

In five words: it never worked.

It started sometime, in 1996, with the first version of the restaurant guide Go-Mio Israel (by journalist Avital Inbar), which already illustrated how complex the attempt to apply French standards to Israeli restaurants is.

Another version of Go-Mew, this time signed by other franchisees, was distributed in the country in November 2019, just before the Corona, revealing awkward amateurism.

A hint of the seriousness, meticulousness and clear standardization of the reputed French guide was not present in it.

Earlier, in 2015, a branch of the French super deli Fuchs was opened in Sharona Market.

Once upon a time, when the world was a little less global and Israel a little more provincial, a visit to Fuchs, in Madeleine Square in Paris, was considered a highlight in the life of the local foodie, who was almost always a francophile.

This has not been the case for a long time, and yet, although in 2015 local foodies knew and understood a little more, Fushon's opening was experienced as an event.

He, too, ended up, of course, in nothing.

A reasonable pastry section, an amateur restaurant, and a zero score at the interface with the market and the local diner resulted in closure after two years.

Three years later, in the heart of the Corona crisis, Fuchs in Paris also closed.

Worth the traffic jams

One of the best steaks in Israel

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Like in France.

Mason Kaiser (Photo: Mason Kaiser)

No one really expects a culinary avant-garde in a restaurant like this.

Pretty French classics, even without a twist, are well made and if possible also with a dash of character.

An initial look at the menu makes it clear that the character element probably did not reach the concept talks when they set up the restaurant.

So Eric Kaiser is here, and it's intriguing. Is this another failed and futile attempt to present standards of French classics in Tel Aviv or will it be different for a change?

I have more of a warm corner in my heart for the location where Maison Kaiser now operates. Bar a-Vin was one of my favorite places, in every sense: the food, wine menu and atmosphere in the square made France at heart, in a good way. Mason Kaiser expanded the familiar interior space and exterior space, where we sat, filled with small coffee tables and braided chairs, as in France.

It started already when we sat down. French cafe tables are undoubtedly a cool thing, which immediately evokes associations in the spirit of "in the streets of Paris, how cold we were," but we immediately realized three dishes on the table, champagne and wine, a large bottle of water, bread and butter, it would not exactly suffice. That was indeed the case.

The menu has arrived.

No one really expects a culinary avant-garde in a restaurant like this;

Nor for an ambitious bistronomic orientation.

Pretty French classics, even without a twist, are well made and if possible also with a dash of character.

An initial look at the menu makes it clear that the character element probably did not reach the concept talks when they set up the restaurant: goose liver trin, beetroot gravadlex salmon, onion soup, tomatoes and mozzarella and a few more in this spirit for the first time.

A short and main pasta section like goose market "Sue Weed", locus fillet in saffron butter and a slice of butchers.

Quite outdated;

Not exactly tempting.

The immediate association went to that meal at Fushon-Sharona Market, peace be upon her.

Like the Go-Mio and Fuchsian factories it also immediately felt like a kind of somewhat puzzling and rather pathetic colonialism, of exposing the natives to the standards of French classics.

But if a menu in such a spirit had been served here 30 years ago, it might have produced the relevant effect.

Today, such a menu is mainly, if you switch to the tricolor language, one big passa.

Even a decade back it would have felt that way.

Same service, same taste, same speed

It is also possible to eat like this in the mall

To the full article

A recipe on WhatsApp?

Goose market in Mason Kaiser (Photo: my social)

Before our order arrived at the table, on the house, a whole long baguette with butter.

This is a more than worthy tribute, of a place whose anchor is the Mafia.

The baguette was fresh and very tasty and also the butter is excellent.

We started with ratatouille (58 shekels) and "shevra chaud" (Chevre Chaud, 58), and we saw how our prediction came true. Two plates, the water bottle and the champagne occupied the whole table. There was no room on the table. The

ratatouille came in a small personal pan and was completely bland

.

Varieties of vegetables and herbs that did not contribute to the texture of the flavors, because the tomatoes set the tone; and they also brought desolation because they were not transported properly. Did not maintain its desired texture.The end result is more correct to call a rag.

Chevre Chaud is the perpetual salad of the basic cafes and bistros in France for generations, based on lettuce and a baguette with hot goat cheese, is the "Shabra Shaw".

Relative to the rest of the dishes at the meal, the current one was reasonable.

Mainly because the goat cheese used, which sat on honey loaves, excelled.

There were also lettuce, endive, snow peas, herbs and hazelnuts.

The lettuce was fresh and the sauce was non-aggressive.

It is a simple classic that has been flawlessly executed and managed to be graceful.

True, this is not a big kitchen challenge but compared to the rest of the meal, it was a big light.

We swallowed, licked, exploded.

And that's before the meat

A mandatory food station was born in Israel

To the full article

not like this.

Eric Kaiser (Photo: PR)

The great Eric Kaiser did not gain his lofty status thanks to cakes and pastries at this level.

There is no doubt that the food in the restaurant does not promote its good name much either

We continued with goose market "Sue Weed" (98) and fillet to lightning En Papillote (94). The goose market was vacuum-cooked and not treated properly. She arrived dry and washed. The toppings included bean, spinach, sun-dried tomatoes and garlic confit. The sauce was based on foie gras and orange and the result was somewhat bleak. More of her who worked on her a lot until Peaks came out, as is customary in decent restaurants in the country of origin, it was more reminiscent of a copied recipe sent on WhatsApp or unlike not overly scrutinized, and executed by an untrained and talented cook.

A fish in "Papiyut" is a fish baked in baking paper, which creates a kind of oven inside an oven. This is a technique that aims to maintain juiciness and increase the presence of flavor enhancers in fish. The halibut fillet we got was relatively large but only part of it remained juicy. Most of it has dried up. The state of aggregation of the greens in the paper envelope was normal but the liquids and spices left a degree of superficiality. A delicate and good aioli improved the situation, but only partially.

We thought it would be nice if all the products of the adjoining bakery were available and we were a bit taken aback to find out that not really. In fact, the supply served in the restaurant is quite limited. We ordered a tatin tart that while not having a great flash and in the parameters of a real and good French bistro dessert undoubtedly represents mediocrity, but positioned itself one level higher than the food that preceded it.

We went out and took home, full of curiosity, a mango tart and passion fruit with coconut cream (35) and chocolate danish (15). We hurried to open them at home, to sample as fresh as possible. It is hard to say that we have discovered any exceptional quality factor. It can also be said this way: the great Eric Kaiser did not gain his lofty status thanks to cakes and pastries at this level. There is no doubt that the food in the restaurant does not promote its good name much either.

The Bottom Line?

Another failed attempt in every parameter to import some France to Israel.

In the wave of big noise created by the many restaurants that opened in the post-Corona era, Mason Kaiser will have a hard time differentiating itself.

She will be engulfed in a commotion and will have a hard time making any mark.

Maybe the next French-Israeli venture to happen here should still try to learn from the mistakes and failures made so far?

Lessons need to be learned.

Meal Kaiser meal bill (Photo: Maison Kaiser)

Maison Kaiser Bistro, 7 Rothschild Blvd., Tel Aviv

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