Eaters go

Noyby's Bucket: A steak like in Philadelphia, which was saved like nowhere else

We thought it was already very hard to surprise us with the favorite combination of carbs and meat.

We were wrong

Yaniv Granot

13/02/2022

Sunday, 13 February 2022, 08:00 Updated: 08:32

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Not like everyone.

Noibi's Aquarius (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)

A sober look at the dozens of "eating eaters" columns that have surfaced here manages to carve out quite a few insights and trends, and even one simple truth, logical and very easy to digest, literally - the basis of 99% of these bites, without exaggeration or statistical bias, will be bread with something.

pitas it is clear, burgers of course, pizza is also a kind of carbohydrate dance that can not be denied.

Dumplings?

Dough and something delicious inside.

Burrito?

All the same.

Sometimes chickpeas (with pita next to them) or jahanun (if the whole carb meal) creeps in, but our street food, theirs, everyone's, is largely based on this great combination.

But in a kind of upside-down kind, and precisely because of everything that has been written here so far, it is very challenging and equally difficult to find something new, to get excited about a sandwich, to taste and say "there has never been one like this before", or just "I'm interested in it now".

That meat is decomposed, and that chicken is grilled, and that schnitzel.

Everyone was good, everyone was Anchei,

Hence, "Neubi's Aquarius."

Look for the small print in the menu

Food of yesteryear, at a price of yesteryear, within today's Tel Aviv

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Delicious finger dirt.

Noyby's Bucket Steak Philly Steak

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What would a 29-year-old chef already be able to do with a sandwich that everyone else would not?

The answer is thought, mind and intellect?

Erez Neuberger studied at Cordon Bleu and has impressive mileage in Israeli kitchens - in years and positions, but also literally, on the roads of the Jezreel Valley and on Hod Hasharon streets, for example.

When you weigh his age (29), this mileage is even more impressive, but a slightly annoying thought creeps into your head: What will a 29-year-old chef already be able to do with a sandwich that everyone else will not?

The answer, to the delight of the sandwich and to our delight, is not fireworks (though there is a burner here that works hard) and not a reinvention of a wheel (though there is a very large pecorino slot here), but thought, head and mind.

This triangle took some classics for a ride around the block, made a turn or two to the side contrary to Wise's recommendation, and came back with the same thing, a little different.

And yes, it's a lot of words to say "better".

The wagio promises and delivers

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first step.

The chicken of Noibi's bucket (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)

second level.

Noibi's Chicken Sandwich (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)

The meat is piled up, the flakes are piled up, everything comes together and melted, and at the end there is a bite of a little meaty-sweet and a little pungent-cheeky, and here the eyes open

The menu of "Nuibi's Bucket" is as focused and determined as we like, and consists mostly of a ciabatta (white or brown) within which things are.

There is a spicy Texan chicken in tempura, schnitzel and also vegetarian and vegan options, but our order went for a sophisticated square - elephant cheese steak, shredded chicken, shredded cordon bleu and meat (shredded, come on).

Let’s start from the end: the phrase “decomposed meat” has reached the point in time where your eyes see it on the menu and close wide.

Everyone was there, and it still seems that the trend - sponsored by the smokers empire that has grown in Israel recently - thinks it has somewhere to grow.

Here, on the other hand, the sandwich (long-cooked entree, mustard aioli, tomato and rocket, NIS 58 with extra as part of the lunch business on the spot) ignores the "let's observe everything with smoked barbecue" approach and gets the same little cedar, in the form of a continuous meter of pecorino cheese. from above.

The meat is piled up, the flakes are piled up, everything comes together and melted, and at the end there is a bite of a little meaty-sweet and a little pungent-cheeky, and here the eyes open.

Tripolitian comeback

Next time someone next to you wants a perfect couscous

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Without flooding, with rain.

Neubi's Dismantled Meat Sandwich (Photo: Giphy)

Seemingly just meat and cheese, not something we have not tasted before.

Practice a bastard take on aristocratic splendor, and a knockout

further.

The decomposed Cordon Bleu sandwich (schnitzel, ham, gouda, tomato, rocket and Caesar sauce, NIS 54 in the same deal) took the European classic of meat-stuffed cheese and ham, lowered it wisely and resourcefully to street level, and managed to keep pace along the way.

The ingredients are engineered on top of each other and between the two halves of the ciabatta (the only raw material that comes prepared from the outside, but does beautifully what it is asked to do, without rags and without falling apart), then Brenner pulls it out, hits the cheese slices, softens them and attaches them to the schnitzel.

The look is mesmerizing, and a few seconds later the taste buds also join.

Seemingly just meat and cheese, not something we have not tasted before.

Practice a bastard take on aristocratic splendor, and a knockout.

But what about the price?

One of the city's favorite dishes got its own place, and rightly so

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Passon along the way.

The disassembled schnitzel from Noibi's bucket (Photo: Giphy)

The steak is grilled on the plancha, the cheese is mixed, the roasted vegetables hug a little from the sides and the sauce leads to the crescendo

What more?

The rotisserie sandwich (chicken, sauerkraut, sauerkraut, aioli, baby leaves, mustard-honey-garlic, NIS 54) is not clever, but neither is it lazy.

That is, whole poultry roasted in the oven on their marinade, disassembled into medium-sized chunks of bite and respectfully transferred into the ciabatta.

In the first place it's a high starting point for a sandwich, and it just rises higher and higher with the little crunch of pickles, and the sauce.

Last, in the honor section of course, was a Philly Cheese Steak sandwich (chunks of entrecote, gouda, roasted peppers, roasted onions, aioli, baby leaves, pickles, NIS 58), a dish that never managed to get a blue ID here, though Several attempts, and although it's not really a complex culinary - thin cuts of steak, thick amounts of cheese, fried onions, and that's it.

At its best this finger dirt is especially delicious.

At its worst, this is usually a pale blue-and-white version that tries to reduce meat (in quality and quantity).

Here, Neuberger takes a real steak, cut into thin but bite-sized chunks.

The meat is grilled on the plancha, the cheese is mixed, the roasted vegetables hug a little from the sides and the sauce leads to a crescendo.

And yes, the fingers get dirty and the head cleans up.

All of this, by the way, was accompanied by a side dish of crunchy potatoes (14 shekels) that could have been everything that needed to be written about the place.

First cooked, then roasted in the oven, then filtered patiently, and only when their time is right are they fried.

Almost every place in the city now offers you such a dish, but almost everyone shortens somewhere, sometime, the way.

Not here, and how delicious it is.

Come early

Two minutes from Tel Aviv, a perfect chicken walks around at prices that make Tel Aviv funny

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Noybi's Potato Potatoes (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)

Erez Neuberger remembers well 270 hours of work, and days that start early in the morning and end only after midnight, in the first few minutes that allow you to think a little quietly.

He also remembers, by the way, how he got into an emergency shift of washing dishes in a restaurant with anesthesia from aggressive dental care.

Now, even though the days have not really shortened and the work has not really softened, he is talking about "Neubi's Bucket" with shining eyes.

Maybe it's the family that helps (the father backs up, the mother manages the accounts and the wife creates in the social) and maybe it's the little kingdom that is based from sandwich to sandwich, maybe it's the hand and maybe the head, and maybe it's the same bread with something, a little different.

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• schnitzel

• steak

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• chicken

• Street food