Cars of all models and monumental 4x4 trucks travel along Route 192 and blur the most recognized image of the
Arroyo de la Cruz area
, set in the desolate countryside of the late 19th century, where a grocery store and the freight train station barely peeked out.
The incessant traffic comes and goes along that ten-kilometer paved section that links Capilla del Señor with Route 8, although the strong history that hovers over the historic bowling alley suggests an ideal stopover to satisfy curiosity and, incidentally, delight the palate with the tastiest
country roast
.
country flavors
The La Esperanza and Don Mateo neighborhoods of the small town are slowly expanding on the other side of the platform -inaugurated in 1909 and, at this point, covered by a vegetal tunnel knotted over the tracks-, while the smoke emanating from the exposed meats to the firewood of dry hawthorn outline a lunch at Parrilla Al Paso, the modern version of that legendary general store, butcher shop, bakery and post office El Descanso, the necessary stop that used to attract mostly rural laborers, operators and railway workers , until its closure in 1977.
The area of Arroyo de la Cruz arose at the beginning of the 19th century as Cañada de la Cruz.
The bowling alley's clientele found a good refuge there to wait for the morning to dawn or the sun to go down at sunset duly encouraged by a strong drink, a game of cards or a bit of paddling on a ball court, a traditional contribution of Basque immigrants located in the
party of Exaltación de la Cruz.
According to the most memorable locals, some famous people were also seduced by the historic house.
Among them they mention the
writer José Hernández
, at the time when he had found in Capilla del Señor the place that would inspire his story of “The return of Martín Fierro”.
The brick and mud walls of the old Arroyo de la Cruz general store were built in 1840.
“Although many come to enjoy the meat empanada, the vacuum sandwiches, blood sausage and bondiola, the barbecue and the homemade flan, we also receive people who simply come to observe in detail the brick and mud walls built in
1840
, the sheet metal roof and trust books that I found, from the beginning of the 20th century.
Afterwards, they complete the visit with a walk through the eucalyptus forest in front of them”, points out Juan Rojas, an experienced griller and owner of the restaurant.
history and nature
The walk suggested by the host contemplates another point of interest to take into account, about 8 kilometers from the town, where the echoes of the
Battle of Cañada de la Cruz
resound , in which the federal forces led by the Santa Fe leader Estanislao López prevailed on the unitary army, led by Estanislao Soler.
The de la Cruz stream runs 70 km from a marsh in the San Andrés de Giles district to its mouth in the Paraná de las Palmas river.
The extended battlefield in an area of vegetable farms anticipates the refreshing atmosphere that prevails on the banks of the Arroyo de la Cruz, 2 kilometers from the small town.
The picnic and catfish fishing program takes on new nuances closer to Capilla del Señor, where the winding riverbed is the main attraction of the three-kilometer circuit of the Municipal Natural Reserve.
A
rich multicolored fauna
of spiders, butterflies, guinea pigs, coypus and more than fifty species of birds usually persists in accompanying the footsteps of tourists along the path that cuts through the pasture and the logging and coronillo forests displaced by the invasion of black acacia and privet.
The persistent sounds and perfumes of nature impose their presence around Arroyo de la Cruz, a haven of countryside and strong marks of the past, barely peeking into the modern world.
Parrilla Al Paso, in Arroyo de la Cruz, 4 kilometers from Capilla del Señor.
Miniguide
How to get.
From the city of Buenos Aires to Arroyo de la Cruz it is 81 kilometers along route 8 (Panamericana branch Pilar), at kilometer 77.5 turn right onto route 192 and continue for 4 kilometers.
Sarmiento train from Once to Luján with transfer in Moreno, $105.80 one way;
with SUBE, $68.80.
Micro 57 common Atlántida from Palermo to Luján, $177;
with SUBE, $80;
Express service from Once to Luján, $279;
with SUBE, $126.
Collective 350 Route Bus from Luján to Capilla del Señor, $110.
Remís Millenium for three passengers from Capilla del Señor to Arroyo de la Cruz, $1,200 (02323-491-262).
Where to stay
One day and one night with breakfast, wi-fi, TV and parking for two people at Posada La Martineta (in Capilla del Señor), $57,570 (153-8821708 / info@lamartinetaposada.com / Facebook: La Martineta Posada).
How much does it cost.
Barbecue for two people with garnish at Parrilla al Paso, $5,800;
vacuum or bondiola sandwich, $1,400;
Free fork of empanada, barbecue, salad, French fries and dessert, $3,300 (02323-15446093 / parrillaalpaso192@gmail.com / Facebook: Parrilla al Paso Arroyo de la Cruz).
Where to find out
(155) 9447778 / (02323) 491-347 / turismo@exaltaciondelacruz.gov.ar / www.exaltaciondelacruz.gob.ar / Facebook: Official Tourism Exaltation.
look also
Shows and workshops on a getaway to Villars, an old railway town
The keys to visit Calingasta, a growing destination