36 hours in Bangkok

The people of Bangkok, Thailand, have been busy: travelers returning to “the city of Angels” after a couple of years will notice

The

, with their glorious religious and royal enclaves, are finally accessible to mass transit with the Metropolitan Rapid Transit subway extension.

And the long, unkempt waterfront of the Cgao Phraya River today has two massive, eye-catching developments on opposite banks: the

and the

, a water garden and arcade.

Night postcard of the Cgao Phraya River and the illuminated Grand Palace.

Photo Shutterstock.

Meanwhile, a

have taken advantage of the lull due to the pandemic to open businesses across Bangkok, bringing more flair and fun to an already quirky city.

Friday

19.00 / Taste good Thai food

Chef

, known as Ton, owner of the Michelin-rated restaurant Le Du in Bangkok, opened Lahnyai Nusara, an intimate lounge-like space restaurant in the middle of the skyscraper-filled Sathorn district, last year.

Make your reservations for one of 6 tables supervised by

, and embark on the

, based on a cosmopolitan take on her mother's recipes, such as the steamed egg with crabmeat and truffles.

Dinner with wine, around 3,800 Thai baht (about US$115) per person.

Tourists on a typical Bangkok excursion: sailing on the Cgao Phraya River.

Photo Shutterstock.

21.00 / Dance at night

Dress shamelessly and let the Thai DJ vibe wash away your jet lag at

, today's reigning nightclub in the Sukhumvit district, with a retro china-noir-style restaurant illuminated by swarms of red lanterns and a movement of professional dancers behind screens and on hammocks that give the place the feeling of being on a Baz Luhrmann film set.

Sit in the intimate nooks and balconies surrounding the stage and dance floor, or join a convivial mix of well-heeled residents and Bangkok's expat community, including, at times, some Russian exiles.

The guest DJ and live band come for parties on a regular basis, such as burlesque or Latin nights.

Drinks start at 180 baht.

Saturday

7.00 / Tour the area by bike

In the 1990s, Co van Kessel, a Dutch-born Bangkok resident who died in 2012, pioneered the then-surprising organization of bike rides through the city

its surrounding farms using boats. channel to move between the city and the country.

River City shopping complex.

Photo Shutterstock.

Today, a friendly staff of young Thai enthusiasts have taken over their space in a garage and office next to the River City shopping complex on the

.

Much of the clientele is still Dutch, and it's a fascinating and safe journey through the

(you get on the boat with your bike), leading to paths leading to the

on which it was built. town, one of which provides a delicious local lunch.

A 5-hour ride costs 1,850 baht.

14.00 / An ethereal back massage

Visitors usually head to

(“wat” means temple in various places in Southeast Asia) next to the Grand Palace to the wondrous 46-meter reclining Buddha.

But there's an inconspicuous building behind the temple where beginners master the

, one of the oldest medical practices to which the temple is dedicated.

The massage center, Wat Pho Thai Traditional Medical School, is opposite the main temple building (usually there is a yellow sign in front).

Try the divine foot and back massages, starting at 280 baht for 30 minutes.

Royal Grand Palace in Bangkok, Thailand.

16.00 / Shop in the arts district

Military jackets from the Vietnam War era?

Butterfly collections?

Hand-carved Scandinavian minimalist cutlery?

It's all found in the potpourri of

, encompassing seven colorful and renovated warehouses and home to Bangkok's thriving arts district surrounding River City Mall.

Recover from all that biking and shop at one of the

, visit septuagenarian uber-barista Ploenpit Rianmek, nicknamed Pa Pim by aficionados, who brews some of the

(from 80 baht).

19.00 / Dine in an old pharmacy

is

a labyrinth of perpetual regeneration.

The district, long hemmed in by permanent traffic, is now

thanks to the extension of the subway system in 2019.

Chinatown street markets.

Photo Mladen Antonovi/ AFP.

Finding

, a

in a former pharmacy down an alleyway, is a worthwhile adventure.

The chef, Pam Soontomyanakjj, is the fifth generation of her family to own and work in this building, with a detour as a chef at Jean Georges Vongerichten's New York culinary empire before returning to bring Western panache to fusion. - Chinese-Thai.

The result is dishes like the traditional

that they serve with smoked salt and on brioche.

His efforts were awarded his first Michelin star in November.

The tasting menu costs 4,800 baht per person.

Book in advance.

22.00 / Discover secret bars

Over the past decade, Bangkok has become one of

.

The best of the burgeoning bar scene is within Potong's walkable stretch, including Teens of Thailand, a cozy jewelery box of a place serving gin cocktails;

Tep Bar, in an old shop that specializes in an herbal liquor called ya dong and uses local fruit and spices;

and one of the hottest new corners of the city, Tropic City, a Thai twist on a tiki bar that features a dizzying array of rum cocktails.

Expect to pay at least 300 baht for a cocktail at these bars.

Boats during sunrise in Bangkok.

Photo Shutterstock.

Sunday

10.00 /Enjoy art on one of the shores

The

, which opened in late 2020,

.

Escape the densely built surroundings into cool courtyards surrounding terraced pools, outdoor art installations and oriental trees that descend to the shoreline.

Head towards the waterfront via the Art Space museum, a whitewashed studio featuring a series of rotating modern art installations, curated by the

The

, including a 3-meter inflatable worm (65,000 baht) and personalized graffiti bags (1,330 baht).

Step out of the gallery to find the

, which serves excellent croissants (95 baht) and coffee on its wide riverside terrace.

11.00 / Eat on the other shore

Take the public ferry across the river

(from 13 baht) to the Icon Siam shopping mall.

Few do malls better than the Thais: imagine the spaceship of Close Encounters of the Third Kind perched on the shoreline (ignore all the domineering façade of bland, fancy Western logos) and step into the light.

Icon Siam shopping center.

Photo Shutterstock.

The first floor has possibly the best food court in the world.

Thais flock to the local stalls that have replaced many of Bangkok's beloved street vendors.

Many stalls have no names and just a

, such as spicy shrimp soup or Pad Thai, often made by families of vendors for generations.

You can easily enjoy a multi-course banquet for less than 200 baht.

After lunch, visit the top floor balcony to discover an art installation of light and mirrors called “Infinity Frest” and one of the best views over the river.

Giant sculpture at the Royal Grand Palace in Bangkok.

13.00 / Visit a secret garden

Between the city center and Suvarnabhumi Airport, the

is one of the best kept secrets and an excellent introduction to

.

The lifelong passion project of a former real estate mogul, Khun Prasart, the museum comprises

, holding salvaged and displayed treasures from around the world.

are

on display, such as an intricately decorative style of porcelain called benjarog, and trees deliberately twisted into enchanting shapes.

A tourist poses on the steps of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha.

Photo EFE/EPA/Rungroj Yongrit.

Sometimes Prasart is there in person, happily working in his garden and greeting visitors.

Sign up by phone in advance (66 2379 3601).

Admission is 500 baht and includes a guided tour, usually one hour.

key stops

• The Prasart Museum is an ancient Thai exuberant hideaway of design, architecture and gardening techniques.

• Potong is a new corner that serves according to the Michelin score.

  Thai and Chinese Fusion is an old fashioned pharmacy in Chinatown.

• Co Van Kessel offers elaborate and safe bike tours through Bangkok's urban jungle and into the countryside.

Where to eat

• Lahnyai Nusara is an intimate lounge-like space offering elaborate meals based on the chef's family recipes.

• Tep Bar serves herbal-infused cocktails with local spirits in an industrial-chic space that plays host to Thai musicians.

• Sing Sing Theater is a trendy nightclub in Bangkok, where the rich and glamorous dance in a china-noir atmosphere.

• Mother Roaster has great coffee served by baristas in their septuagenarians.

where to stay

• Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok on the Chao Phraya River is a new leafy and modern oasis in a former industrial part facing the river.

  The hotel complex features gardens, cafes, and contemporary art spaces (double rooms from 14,000 Thai baht, or US$427)

• JW Marriott was recently renovated to very elegant standards and has easy access to the active nightlife and markets around the Sukhumvit district, starting at around 6,300 baht per night.

• Villa Bangkok Hotel, formerly Villa Phra Sumen, is a good choice, with modern lounges along the Rop Krung canal in the heart of the Phra Nakhon historic district.

  Double rooms start at 1,640 baht per night.

• The vibrant Bang Rak neighborhood is fringed by Lumpini Park and packed with inexpensive, yet luxurious short-term rentals, often offering full-service buildings with a concierge and pool.

Finn-Olaf Jones/The New York Times.

Special for Clarín

Translation: Patricia Sar

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