Self-styled the green heart of Italy, the landlocked region of Umbria is known for its truffles and olive oil, roast pork and sausages, wine and cheese.
It also has great cultural treasures, many of them in mountain cities such as Orvieto, Perugia and Assisi. It is possible to admire the magnificent reliefs and mosaics of the façade of the medieval cathedral of Orvieto, see the amazing frescoes by Giotto in the basilica of St. Francis of Assisi (first glimpses of Renaissance art) and explore the National Gallery of Umbria in Perugia, with works of the thirteenth century.
The cultural and culinary treasures of the region can be easily reached by train from Rome, located just below, to the south, or from Florence, to the north.
Landscape of Umbria: the plain of the Castelluccio Mountains, in the Sibillini National Park. Photo Shutterstock
Departing from Rome, a logical starting point is Orvieto, just over an hour away, with trains every 60 minutes approximately.
Some depart from Termini main station; others, from the huge Tiburtina multilevel station, easily accessible through the Italian capital's subway. Expect to pay between 9 and 17 euros (from US$ 10 to about 18.50, more or less).
From Florence, it is best to make the trip in reverse, starting inthe northernmost cities ofAssisi and Perugia and continuing to Orvieto, from where you can easily follow to Rome.
Panoramic view of Orvieto. Photo Shutterstock
Orvieto
Umbria (Umbria in Italian) is a mountainous territory, and in each locality you will have to go uphill from the train station. Each population solves this in a slightly different way. In Orvieto you will take a funicular (1.3 euros) to the city, which is perched on a rocky cliff, overlooking the surrounding green valley and the distant hills.
Above the highest point of the city rise the towers of the immense cathedral dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and built over several centuries, starting in 1290, to commemorate a local miracle: the communion host that in 1263 bled in the nearby town of Bolsena. Today, the stained altar cloth is preserved in the cathedral.
From the train station to the center of Orvieto you can go by funicular. Photo Shutterstock
On the upper façade of Orvieto Cathedral shine mosaics on a golden background that originally date from the fourteenth century and have been reworked and modified over the centuries. At eye level are four gigantic marble bas-reliefs, with scenes from the Old and New Testaments, fabulous masterpieces of sculpture and biblical storytelling.
An excellent map that is obtained in the cathedral helps to find its artistic treasures. The chapel of the Madonna of San Brizio has frescoes on the ceiling by Fra Angelico and Benozzo Gozzoli. The ceiling was completed by another Tuscan genius, Luca Signorelli, who then painted the walls with scenes from the Apocalypse, including that of damned suffering in hell and chosen ones enjoying paradise.
All over Orvieto you'll see posters featuring porchetta,the boneless pork eaten roasted al spiedo — when it's not made a cult object — in much of central Italy. In this region, pork is usually stuffed with wild fennel before being rolled, tied and roasted for hours.
Glicinias in bloom in a narrow street of the old town of Orvieto. Photo Shutterstock
At L'Oste del Re, near the cathedral, you can choose from a full menu that includes local cold cuts and pastries; A full lunch can cost 25 euros. You can also buy well-loaded sandwiches to take away (less than 10 euros). And at L'Angolo Divino, the specialty of the day may well be hot porchetta slices, served with roasted potatoes (from 25 to 30 euros).
Be sure to pay attention to the umbrichelli pasta, the different varieties of pecorino cheese and everything that has truffles. Local wines include Orvieto Classico, one of Italy's most famous whites, and red Montefalco.
After you've strolled through the picturesque steep streets of the small town, head back to the viewpoint near where you got off the funicular. Linger in the spectacular scenery of hills and valleys, and then descend to Pozzo di San Patrizio.
St. Patrick's Well and its stairs, impressive visit in Orvieto. photo Shutterstock
In 1527, when the armies of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V sacked the city, Pope Clement VII took refuge in Orvieto, part of his papal state. He wanted the city to be prepared to withstand a siege, so the Florentine architect Antonio da Sangallo the Younger (who also worked on St. Peter's in Rome) designed a well 53 meters deep, with two separate staircases, each with 248 steps, and threaded together forming a double helix.
The donkeys could descend one of the stairs, be loaded with water and return by climbing the other. The entrance (5 euros) allows you to go down to the bottom and appreciate the architecture and the mysterious light, which dims when descending the first circular staircase and returns slowly when ascending the other.
At Hotel Duomo, some rooms overlook Cathedral Square. The doubles cost from 140 euros onwards.
View of Perugia from the historic aqueduct. Photo Shutterstock
Perugia
The railway from Orvieto to Perugia takes about two hours, counting a transfer in Terontola-Cortona (tickets, 10.10 euros). From Perugia train station, cross a square and take a small monorail (1.5 euros). The Pincetto stop puts you in the historic centre of Perugia, overlooking the surrounding hills and valleys.
You are very close to Piazza IV Novembre, the cathedral and the Fontana Maggiore, medieval fountain with two magnificent pink and white marble ponds, one inside the other, surrounded by marble bas-reliefs representing the months of the year and the signs of the zodiac.
Palazzo dei Priori, a historic building in Perugia. Photo Shutterstock
You will probably see lots of students: Perugia has been a university town since 1308. The famous Cesare Borgia (illegitimate son of Pope Alexander VI) was a student at the local university in the late fifteenth century and played a pivotal role in extending the power of the Papal government during the Renaissance, when the forces of the Supreme Pontiff's state were fighting against the city-states of the time.
That is why Clement VII was able to take refuge in Orvieto (and build the well); at that time Umbria was ruled by the Popes, as they continued to do until the unification of Italy in the nineteenth century.
The cathedral, dedicated to San Lorenzo, was supposed to be finished externally with a decoration in white and pink marble, but construction stopped in 1490. The façade was never completed, so the stone is still raw.
Piazza IV of November, in Perugia. Photo Shutterstock
On the other side of the square is the National Gallery of Umbria, in the Palazzo dei Priori. Take your time to explore this immense museum and appreciate the paintings of the city's namesake, Perugino (his real name was Pietro Vannucci), but also the works of Pinturicchio (another native son), Beato Angelico and Piero della Francesca.
You will also see chocolate shops in the area of the piazza and, of course, throughout the city. The Perugina chocolate factory, which is a few kilometers away, can be visited. Perugia is widely known for its chocolates, in particular the hazelnut and chocolate Baci.
As a quick – and excellent – lunch at Mr. Norcy there is panini and boards of local cold cuts and cheeses (lunch, 10 euros or less). On a recent visit, the city's longest line of people formed at the Antica Porchetteria Granieri 1916 sandwich stand in Piazza Giacomo Matteotti, where the waiter carved a porchetta that appeared to measure 1.80 meters.
In the National Gallery of Umbria, in Perugia, there is a lot of art to appreciate. Photo Shutterstock
Perugia is today a university city, as it was in the Renaissance for Cesare Borgia, full of picturesque squares and pleasant places to have coffee or an aperitif.
Corso Vannucci, a wide pedestrian street flanked by beautiful buildings (and more chocolate shops in some) leads to the Giardini Carducci, gardens located in what was an old fortress from which you will access magnificent views of the surrounding hills.
Near the Giardini Carducci is the luxurious hotel Sina Brufani (double rooms cost from around 200 euros in more).
The Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi is one of Italy's great sites of artistic interest. Photo Shutterstock
Assisi
From Perugia it is about 20 minutes by train to Assisi (tickets, from 3 to 5.25 euros). To climb the hill to the center of Assisi, take the connecting bus that stops in front of the station (tickets can be purchased on board for 1.5 euros).
One of the advantages of sleeping in Assisi is that you can avoid the crowds and be in the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi first thing in the morning (opens at 6 am).
The Basilica comprises a lower and an upper church, both decorated with precious frescoes. Photo Shutterstock
The basilica is one of the great sites of artistic interest in Italy, but it is also a very prominent destination for religious tours and pilgrimages. A pilgrimage route, the Via di Francesco, begins in Tuscany, focuses on Assisi and continues to Rome, with almost 500 kilometers in total.
Given the saint's affection for animals, pilgrims are encouraged to walk with their dogs, who also find hospitality in Assisi, in a special area near the basilica.
St. Francis, who lived between 1181 and 1226, was canonized two years after his death, which is when the construction of the basilica began; His tomb is in the crypt. The son of a wealthy merchant from Assisi, Francis, after a religious vision, devoted himself to a life of poverty, chastity and obedience. He is one of Italy's two patron saints and remains a deeply loved figure.
Streets in the medieval center of Assisi. Photo Shutterstock
The basilica, spectacularly built on the side of a hill, comprises a lower and an upper church, both decorated with precious frescoes.
In them you can see the work of some of the most important late medieval painters while inventing Renaissance art: most especially in the work of young Giotto, who, together with his assistants, decorated the upper church with scenes from the life of St. Francis, including, next to the entrance, the famous image of the saint preaching to the birds.
In these frescoes, Giotto used his characteristic blue pigment and endowed the figures with three-dimensional sculptural presence, while depicting human expression and emotion in new and realistic ways. The upper church also had frescoes by Cimabue. Umbria has always been geologically volatile: the basilica suffered serious damage in the wake of an earthquake in 1997.
Assisi: Piazza del Comune. Photo Shutterstock
In the lower church there are frescoes by Simone Martini, Pietro Lorenzetti and others by Giotto and his school. Make sure you have a detailed guide to help you decipher the four frescoes in the groin vault, the work of Giotto or one of his close followers, which display an image of the saint in his glory and also allegories of the three Franciscan virtues.
In the most famous, Francis marries Poverty, personified as a ragged woman. While creatures throw stones at her and young men in good clothes mock, Christ celebrates the ceremony.
Assisi is a lovely city to eat. Try the garden terrace of the excellent Buca di San Francesco in a regal old building, which offers dishes such as spaghetti alla buca, homemade pasta with mushrooms, meat and herbs, or carlaccia, a baked pancake with cheese, prosciutto and beef (dinner, from 35 to 40 euros).
The more informal Osteria da Santu Mangione is supplied on the owner's own farm (he will tell you the name of the pig that was used for the sausages) and outside it has incredible tables from which you can enjoy observing the buildings of the old town and the valley below (lunch is around 20 euros).
The upper church of the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. Photo Shutterstock
If you start this trip from Florence, trains to Perugia leave every two hours and take between 2 and 2 and a half hours (14.65 euros).
Dating back to 1899, Giotto Hotel & Spa offers a magnificent panoramic terrace for eating and drinking. Prices for double rooms start from 100 euros upwards.
PERRI KLASS / The New York Times. Special for Clarín
Translation: Roman Garcia Azcárate
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