For the hundredth anniversary of the construction of the iconic Villa Noailles, which every year hosts this springboard festival for emerging talents, youth was celebrated even in the jury of the fashion competition. President Charles de Vilmorin, 26 years old, had surrounded himself with jurors with creative affinities: Bilal Hassani, 24 years old and Pierre de Maere, 22 years old, echoing the commitment of Marie-Laure and Charles de Noailles, patrons and detectors of the spirit of the times. Singer Ichon performed some of his new songs, singer-songwriter Claire Laffut mixed while the professionals exchanged.
Around the festivities, the summer played overtime, at the height of the burning enthusiasm that carried this very instructive 38th edition of the Hyères Fashion, Photo and Accessories Festival of which Madame Figaro is a partner. This year's winner is Igor Dieryck. This Belgian has clearly won over his audience as he wins the Grand Prix du Jury Première Vision, the Prix Le19M des Métiers d'Art awarded by Chanel and the Prix du Public. A rare event in the history of the festival that deserves to be highlighted.
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Precision, vision, a touch of derision
Igor Dieryck graduated from fashion design school in 2022, and has since worked at Hermès, as a junior designer in men's ready-to-wear. He named his collection "Yes Sir" because it was inspired by his job as a hotel receptionist during his studies. "Sometimes there was nothing to do but watch people walk through the lobby. I observed as many silhouettes as personalities, who crossed paths without meeting," he recalls.
Igor Dieryck has reviewed and recut the bellboy uniforms, clothes and accessories anchored in the world of hospitality. © Arnel de la Gente / Catwalkpi
The pieces he presented in the festival's fashion competition testify to interactions and social positioning. Igor Dieryck has reviewed and recut the bellboys' uniforms, the clothes and accessories anchored in the world of hospitality – in particular a "clochette" jacket alluding to the one that is jingled at the reception - a maxi-balaclava "feather duster" made as part of the collaboration with the Métiers d'Art Chanel, and gloves fused to the tray that are presented at the table, "Because when you approach the appetizers, people usually look at the tray, rarely at the person who brings it."
He also played with proportions, composed tuxedo belts so high that they become corsets, and deconstructed and reinvented different stages of men's tailoring. Coming from the Belgian School, there is a discrepancy in his work, a form of distancing that allows innovation. Igor's fashion evokes modern surrealism; It shifts the side lines, will never be literal.
The pieces that Igor Dieryck presented at the festival's fashion competition testify to interactions and social © positioning Arnel de la Gente / Catwalkpi
"I used simple materials, built my pieces according to the tradition of tailors," he explains. With overlays and multiple levels of subjects, wear and reading. "It's the idea of streetwear twisted, a look at the impact of the uniform. Because underneath the costume, in the end, only the true self remains." While Igor Dieryck didn't have any plans to launch his brand in the near future, the three awards he received give him pause: "It involves a lot of responsibility and work, but it would be interesting to find a way to balance the two in the future."
Underneath the costume, in the end, only the true self is left
Igor Dieryck, creator
A Generational Agreement
Charles de Vilmorin explains the jury's decision: "We chose to be demanding and radical." He continued: "Igor touched us a lot. I projected myself into his collection, I could imagine what he would create in a few years. He presented us with poetic and saleable pieces. His technical level is remarkable, his universe is precise. The awards will allow him to further develop his creative language. »
Exploratory Mode and Signs of the Times
Sustainability, more than ever at the heart of the thinking of the new generation of designers, has become so obviously anchored in their work that they no longer even express it spontaneously when presenting their collections: this awareness is acquired, the production processes adapted. This year, the topic widely covered, assimilated and claimed by several candidates concerned gender issues. Several of them spoke of their perplexity in the face of the binary, of the difficulties they experience in positioning themselves, their need to move the frames, and to hem them.
For his part, singer Pierre de Maere, another Belgian talent in orbit, points out that Igor Dieryck was, in various complementary aspects, "the only one of the candidates to be unanimous in the jury". "We all wanted his pieces, his impeccable cuts, his masterful accessories," he says. We can see that he works at Hermès. He has created a successful collection, in which we can project ourselves. It's fresh, harmonious like music." He concluded: "We are all looking forward to hearing what happens next." With the mentorship that will accompany his awards, Igor Dieryck only has to orchestrate.