Throughout history, wars have affected every aspect of people's lives. While bringing destruction and despair, wars also catalyze significant changes in the way people dress, as necessity forces innovation. From practical clothing for soldiers to the rise of influential designers in times of crisis, the connection between wars and fashion is fascinating and complex.
In the current war, local designers, like most Israelis, found themselves almost without work, with all projects cancelled and shops left empty. Out of this void, and the need of military personnel, arose a fascinating fashion venture.
Before the Iron Swords War began, Yaara Kedar, curator and fashion historian, worked on curating her next exhibition at Design Museum Holon. In addition, she gave lectures in various cultural spaces throughout the country. Now that everything has stopped, she has decided to join the war effort in fashion, which she knows like the back of her hand.
"The project I am taking part in is a general mobilization of the Israeli fashion industry, including students, lecturers, heads of fashion departments from Shenkar, Bezalel and WIZO Haifa, independent fashion designers and more," she says. "What is actually happening is connecting fashion people to the needs that arise from the field, and producing clothes and other items as needed.
"One of the main people in the venture is Roy Bardas, who connects sewing workshops and fashion designers to requests that come from the field, alongside Tal Stern from the brand DARE."
"We must not forget that everyone experiences and processes war differently." Yaara Kedar, Photo: Moshe Ben Simhon
"Everyone bears the burden"
One of the places that enlisted for the project is Abigail Koren's "olive press" in Tel Aviv. Koren, a Shenkar graduate who opened a collaborative space for fashion designers with all the necessary equipment, including cutting tables, sewing machines, ironing stations and more, converted the place from the moment the war broke out into a sewing space for fighters, medical teams and other needs that arise from the field. Donations for the operation are collected from good citizens.
"Independent fashion designers have to decide for themselves what suits them, and how and if they can participate," Kedar adds. "We must not forget that everyone experiences and processes war differently. Not everyone can volunteer right now, and that's fine. We need to take care of ourselves, which is just as important.
"Some of us can contribute, some of us have businesses that need to function, some businesses that need to pay salaries. Everyone bears the burden. You can volunteer physically and come to sew for the soldiers, you can donate equipment or money, and you can give the place to volunteers. Everyone needs to find the donation that suits them. It was clear to me personally that I could physically help with sewing and convert my social networks to fundraising."
Military clothing styles have consistently influenced civilian fashion. In the years of the world wars, for example, fashion became much simpler and more practical. After the wars, fashion gave citizens new hope, and we saw designs with an abundance of fabric and textures.
In 1947, after World War II, designer Christian Dior came up with a "new look," which emphasized the waist and fabric-filled skirts. In doing so, he set the tone for style in the 50s in Europe and the United States.
The post-World War II era brought a surge in military-inspired fashion, and items like the trench coat and bomber jacket became staples in wardrobes.
"We will come back to life"
In the 60s and 70s, also as a response to the Vietnam War, military outlet stores gained popularity and the Peace and Love movement in the United States gave birth to hippie fashion, which also made extensive use of military clothing, in protest.
"Throughout history, wars have always pushed forward technologies, industrial development, material reuse, and more," Kedar says. "The wars directly affect fashion, with the introduction of uniform cuts, olive and khaki colors and camouflage prints, which are also part of the fashion world."
Protest use of military clothing in cinema, photo: from the movie "Forrest Gump"
How will the current war affect the fashion world and the fashion industry in Israel?
"The war will affect everyone, that's clear. I believe that after crises there is a backlash. Historically, always after wars, epidemics or dark times people want to come back to life, and fashion is a way to express that. Although at the moment it seems far away, and in the near future we will probably wear only simple things and will not devote ourselves to any extravagant item, but history has shown us that even after the most difficult crises - it is necessary to return to life and celebrate. Maybe it's strange to say it these days, and it's hard for me to see it happening too, but if we learn from history – and I think always to learn from the past – at least we have one thing to wait for."
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