In an age of over-exposure, luxury is discretion. And if 'quiet luxury' is already defined as a trend of the past, next winter will be marked by a sophisticated, but discreet men's fashion, which loves the purest tailoring with comfortable blazers to wear from morning to night, suits (even three-piece), lots of velvet and contaminations from snowy Nordic landscapes. The colour palette undergoes a turning point, with the revenge of neutrals (also in the total look version) that relaunch a bright winter. Among the more than 800 companies at Pitti Uomo 105, which closes today in Florence and passes the baton to Milan, there is a common trend regarding the season's colours: no longer just intended for mountain clothing, sober and neutral mellow tones are the new protagonists of the men's wardrobe for autumn/winter 2024/25. Welcome, then, light shades on sweaters, suits, blazers and even down jackets. From ivory to oats, from cream to ice, from optical white to butter and caramel, neutrals are the new black, to be worn from morning to night, even on formal occasions.
New winter textures chase the beauty of the Nordic landscape on enveloping fabrics and cold-proof garments. The reference to Scandinavian design participates in the play of weights between luxurious materials and structures in wool, alpaca and mohair. This applies to suits (the three-piece is also making a strong comeback), to the new oversized blazers (even in neutral-toned tweeds), but also to trousers, outerwear and shearling. With velvet as the great protagonist of the season in both the smooth and corduroy versions. Knitwear is also involved, but it will have voluminous shapes: the enveloping shell of cashmere, the compactness of merino wool and the skilful blends of cashmere-silk-wool welcome processes that enhance the peculiarities of each individual garment, in soft shades and with fairytale references (here with contrasting natural grays and beiges). Also seen at the show were many inlaid pullovers, pastel turtlenecks and diamond sweaters in wool-cashmere. That explorers' nostalgia is also back, bringing back the contaminations from the world of the mountains, trekking, and outdoor life even when the temperature drops below zero. Thinking about adventures between rocks and glaciers, fashion designs garments perfect for expeditions to the North Pole: waterproof and windproof techno-fabrics, multifunctional outerwear made unique by shiny and wrinkled surfaces. Everything converges in collections based on high-tech high-performance fabrics, where the concept of outdoor disciplines textures created for activities such as hiking and trekking: cargo, techno-vests, versatile weatherproof jackets enliven the outfit even in everyday life, in the city and in nature.
On this issue, the founding values such as respect for the planet remain strong, with many green collections born from recycling and upcycling activities, attentive to efficiency in water and energy consumption. Here, too, the color palette is inspired by snow-capped nature, smoky mountains, fog and wild coasts. The only pops of color are earthy tones of moss green and stone gray, storm blue, and a few flashes of orange.
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