A white tank top is the blank page on which Sabato De Sarno designs his first men's collection for Gucci, on the catwalk in Milan at the opening of fashion week. A proposal in the name of a refined subversion, which is reflected as in a game of mirrors in the women's collection with which the creative director made his debut last September at the stylistic helm of the brand with the double G.
In the former Macchi foundry, a post-industrial space in the heart of popular Bovisa, never before used as a location by the brand, De Sarno unveils his vision of the Gucci man, closely linked to the feminine one, so much so that it is accompanied by the same poster, entitled Ancora. To underline the unity of purpose, the same soundtrack of September, with the inevitable 'Ancora ancora ancora' by Mina remixed by Mark Ronson and even some outerwear that, just like in a mirror, are re-proposed for him after being worn by her. It starts from the first outing with the oversized maxi coat worn over the white tank top, to continue with the gray knit polo shirt worn with the same silver 'marina chain' necklace, the red leather jacket Ancora, the baggy jeans worn with the sweater with a wide collar studded with Swarovski or with a blue pea coat. With a small play of proportions, accessories are also shared, starting with the legendary Jackie, which becomes wider for men.
So far, so common. Then the novelties just for him: a silk ribbon closed by a carabiner that becomes a loose tie, to be worn like a scarf on the new tailored suits, from the double-breasted with hidden side lacing and biker details to the blazers with contrasting piping combined with ankle-length trousers. A touch of subversion enhanced by basketball-style tank tops studded with diamonds, wool jackets with sparkling collars, coats and jackets jingling with dazzling fringes, denim inlaid with points of light.
An irreverent elegance that redesigns the essential elements of the men's wardrobe, reinterprets the GG monogram with an unprecedented shadow effect that creates a sense of depth and even the horsebit loafers, iconic protagonists in the history of the House, which for women had reached new heights thanks to platforms, and for men are inspired by rubber-soled creepers.
Among the guests, the actors Idris Elba, Pietro Castellitto and Lorenzo Zurzolo, the musicians Tananai and Mahmood. Some reporters were waiting for the arrival of Chiara Ferragni, often a guest at the fashion house's fashion shows, but the influencer, who ended up under investigation for the pandoro affair, was not seen.
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