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Aconcagua: why it's so difficult this season to summit the highest mountain in the Andes

2024-01-14T10:30:16.570Z

Highlights: Mount Aconcagua (6,962 meters above sea level) is the highest peak in the Americas. In 75 days, just 60 people made it to the top, half the number last year. Two foreign mountaineers have already died so far this year. Bad weather complicates climbs and forecasters predict that it will continue. The highest medical service in the world has been launched at the base of the mountain, surpassing the service of the Himalayas and Everest.


In 75 days, just 60 people did it, half the number last year. Bad weather complicates climbs. And they predict that it will continue. Two foreign mountaineers have already died so far this year.


Mount Aconcagua (6,962 meters above sea level), the highest peak in the Americas, is facing one of its greatest challenges in recent decades of climbing.

In the current season, which started the first week of November and ends the first week of March, there were very few climbers who managed to reach the summit.

In January alone, there were 10 days of storms. And the extended forecast shows very low temperatures, cloudy days and strong winds.

"These are days of extreme conditions, with temperatures of up to 30 degrees below zero and winds that reach 100 kilometers per hour," explains Sebastián Melchor, head of the Aconcagua Provincial Park in Mendoza.

The last week of December and the first two weeks of January are considered the high season, when foreign visitors arrive to try to reach the so-called roof of America and several to crown the select group of the 7 highest peaks of each continent.

There are many climbers who enter Aconcagua Park to trek and ascend to some of its high altitude camps, such as Plaza Francia or Plaza de Mulas.

A minority are attempting the ascent to the summit but, of that percentage, very few have succeeded this year. Only 60 climbers made it to the top, in 75 days of attempts.

"It's half of the peaks we have, compared to other seasons," Melchor confirms.

Mountaineers on Aconcagua. This season is the most difficult in decades. Photo: Archive

In terms of the number of entrants, there are more climbers this season than last season. A growing trend for outdoor sports in contact with pure nature.

To trek, 3,030 entered until the second week of January.

For ascents to the summit, 1,474 started the climb, but only 60 managed to reach the summit. Last year, 1,388 had entered as of the second half of January, and more than 120 made it.

"Before, a summit could be held in 12-14 days, but today it takes more than 16, for example," says the head of the Aconcagua park.

Who comes to Aconcagua

Plaza de Mulas, at 4,300 meters above sea level, is the main high altitude camp, a village of mountaineers of different nationalities who share a passion for the mountains every summer.

Visitors come from the United States, Canada, Europe, and Latin America, in order of importance of Aconcagua admissions. The number of Argentines who choose short and long trekking circuits is also growing.

To attract foreign climbers, the government of Mendoza launched a presale in 2023 with discounts of 25%, to those who hired between May and August, for the 2024 season.

"We have sold more than 900 permits in pre-sale, which represents a third of the temperature allowed," says Melchor.

The highest clinic in the world

The Aconcagua rescue patrol, the park ranger corps and the emergency medical service monitor the condition with which the climbers arrive at the high altitude camp.

This season, there is a lot of demand due to the complications of the weather. Two foreign climbers, an American and a Russian, died in separate episodes in the first week of January.

The medical coordinator at Aconcagua, Bernabé Abramor (Extreme Medicina), told Clarín that the team is made up of 30 doctors from different specialties: traumatology, dermatology, surgery, intensive care, and sports. Most of the professionals have the specialty of mountain medicine.

A helicopter rescue. Aconcagua has just launched the highest medical service in the world. Photo: Archive

"This season we are launching the highest medical service in the world, surpassing the service of the Himalayas and Everest. The post is at the base of Nido de Cóndores, at 5,400 meters above sea level," says Dr. Abramor.

In Plaza de Mulas there is a small clinic for the attention of athletes who arrive at Aconcagua. Medical check-ups are carried out there, but accidents or people with serious pathologies can also be attended to, before being rescued by the emergency helicopter, which requires good weather conditions to fly.

In this high-altitude hospital there are two inpatient beds, with monitoring and oxygen therapy rooms, cardiology, and ultrasound, to comply with all the check-ups and controls that are needed in a service of medium complexity.

Mendoza. Correspondent

ACE

Source: clarin

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