On the runway to the notes of 'The Sea of a Winter' by Loredana Berté, while the light of a lighthouse illuminates his steps, the man dressed in Emporio Armani for next winter. Ready to set off on a crossing of the Atlantic, it is inspired by the timeless charm of the ocean and the ships that ply it.
"I have never hidden my love for the sea, a symbol of freedom and adventure," says Giorgio Armani. This season, however, I thought of the Atlantic of the crossings, and the ships that have sailed it. It's a way for me to explore the spirit of Emporio, with an emphasis on the fluid transition between masculine and feminine, which is natural to me, but always radical." There is a spirit of adventure, which is an opening of views, in this collection, on the catwalk today in Milan, which talks about ports and shipyards, and the characters who populate them, from sailors to officers, but also of some female travelers, ready to face the crossing with sailor leather blouses and stiletto heels. A romantic but decisive spirit permeates the entire collection, where the wide and well-designed shoulders are paired with lace-ups with high soles, which combined with gaiters become a new model of boots. "I worked on the silhouette, starting from the shoulders, which are now wide, square, decisive.
That's where the whole movement of the collection comes from, which largely has a sartorial look, and is quick and dry, suitable for today's style." The sense of elegance given by long coats, shortened jackets, trousers with generous volumes and crossing pastrani, is combined with complimentary quotes such as sailor tunics, also in leather, and slip hats, while vests and bibs increase the functionality of jackets and peacoats and shirts are replaced by tops made of the same fabrics as blazers and trousers, thus giving life to a new uniform, monochrome and decisive. Oversized rubberized dungarees and shirts are reminiscent of shipboard work, while metallic embroidery on jackets, shirts and coats is reminiscent of the encrustations similar to those that the open sea leaves on the keels of ships. An Atlantic blend of navy blue, steel grey, ice white and midnight black underlines the mood of the collection, where some garments for him are adapted to her.
"To underline the barrier-free spirit of Emporio Armani, this season I wanted to add a selection of women's garments that complement the men's proposal. They are the result of a work of adaptation in the proportions of those for men, identical in lines and fabrics: a project - concludes Giorgio Armani - that has a perfect immediacy for the times we live in."
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