Giorgio Armani's eye is the real protagonist of his men's collection for next winter, on the catwalk in Milan. It stands out on the invitation to the fashion show and in the show room, like the beacon that illuminated the Emporio collection. It is the master's eye on contemporary man, a lesson in style revised and updated to today's times. Supreme elegance, then, but fluid and loose, with unstructured jackets never close to the body, often without lapels, a few shirts and ties and a lot of soft velvet, for a confident and nonchalant sophistication.
Those seen on the catwalk, "are all Armani things revised and corrected in proportions, variations on the theme, there is no particularly precise message also because I don't think - Armani emphasizes at the end of the show - that man needs to be stunned every time by some element, by some forcing".
"Giorgio Armani's proposals," he continues, "are all proposals that I could somehow put forward too, it is a path that I have always followed and that on this occasion is quite emphasized." At the heart of the stylistic work is a revision of the proportions, which for next winter are larger and less close to the body "to give even more ease and looseness than I had done at the beginning". Thus the trousers - from cargo tucked into boots to those with pleats combined with coloured turtlenecks - have an unprecedented softness, while the new unlined jackets have volumes that move with the gait of the person, supporting the natural looseness of the body. "Men's fashion," Armani points out, "must not be an object of desire at all costs, it must be a beautiful dress, a beautiful jacket, a beautiful fabric, color or combination and nothing more, because otherwise - he warns - we risk making Carnival, while the difficult training ground is to do the usual in an unusual way." Thus, for example, today "iridescent padded trousers are no longer a heresy under a jacket", because you can "mix them without overdoing it", but of course - this is Armani's lesson - you must always take into account the context. There were few ties on the catwalk today: "the tie depends on the occasion, we put it on the man who goes to the office with respect for that office, because I hope he doesn't go with a t-shirt to an important meeting. There are TV announcers who, when they come out dressed well, are big flowers of men, while others are over-the-top and are more part of an almost ridiculous game, to the massacre, of the man, who instead - Giorgio Armani underlines - must preserve an image of himself that is acceptable".
An image that is elegant and new at the same time, like the one drawn by jackets as light as shirts, by the new suits that have the looseness of a sportswear, by the velvet dresses, even spotted, and by the sparkling tuxedos that closed the shows, under the watchful eyes of Giorgio Armani and guests such as Pedro Alonso, the 'Berlin' of the cult 'La casa di carta', Today he is the protagonist of a new series.
Images from Giorgio Armani's fashion show
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