Car inspections before buying have become in recent years one of the mandatory stops on the way to buying a used car.
And if you once had a father who would make an engine head for a Fiat 600 on the kitchen table and adjust platinums with the nail of his pinky, a mechanic friend or a neighbor who understands - today the dwindling number of these and the complexity of cars have made the inspection at the institute a part of the process.
But just before you run to the testing institute and pay an amount between NIS 350 and 600 or even more than that, there are a few things that you can check yourself before this stage, the findings that will emerge from there will allow you to make a more informed decision as to whether the candidate is suitable to advance to the institute stage.
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Get to know the vehicle license/Kinan Cohen, Yoav Falls
The first thing you want to do, before even approaching the car, is to understand who you are buying the car from.
Make sure that there is a complete match between the details of the seller and those indicated on the vehicle license.
Even if he is selling the car for a neighbor, an uncle abroad, a grandmother in Florida or a sister - you want to see at least the owner's ID card or other means of identification. The vehicle or the father's name on the ID card. Also make sure that what is written on the license matches the engine and chassis number of the vehicle.
In the next step, check that the vehicle license does not contain a notice of encumbrance or any other sales restriction. For a cost of 10 shekels, you can obtain a detail of the vehicle's insurance history from the clearinghouse of The insurance companies. It will allow you to verify the claims of an accident-free car or reveal the car's true insurance history. There are websites that offer a similar report at a cost of several hundred shekels, with a little initiative you can save this expense.
Look for gaps and differences in textures and color that may indicate bodywork repairs/manufacturer's site
External inspection
The inspection of the vehicle is done in daylight, direct sunlight.
No night, no street lights and no dark parking lot.
Direct light will make it possible to distinguish light scratches, differences in tone and texture between the parts of the tin that indicate bodywork repairs.
Look at the windshield of the car, if it's the original one, the manufacturer's symbol will be stamped on it, isn't it there?
This is suspicious.
Open the doors and the tailgate and check that the rubbers sit properly, if they are fastened with plastic clips - that they are intact and not injured by opening them.
Lift the trunk carpet and look
under the spare wheel and on the tin floor of the cabin, signs of rust, water residue or the smell of mildew may indicate a repair due to an accident and water ingress.
Also, look at the screws on the hinges of the doors, screw heads with signs of work will indicate disassembly and assembly of the doors - does the owner have a convincing explanation?
Check buttons, seats, compartments, switches - everything/Kia
Internal inspection
in the passenger compartment, turn the ignition switch half a turn, without moving, or press the drive button without pressing the brakes, on the dashboard, do all the inspection lights turn yellow and turn off immediately?
excellent.
This little ritual is self-control of the vehicle.
Most of the ones that will stay on are the oil pressure light in the engine (which, as I recall, is off), the battery voltage (which is not charging) and the brake light (because the handbrake is raised).
If there are others that stay lit, find out which ones and why.
Go through the handles, compartments, drawers, buttons, taps and seat adjustment levers (electric or manual), multimedia system, air conditioning outlets, climate control and every other system in the car.
Then, during the test drive, make sure that the air conditioner is working and cooling.
If there is a sunroof, open and close it and notice that it operates smoothly, continuously and without strange noises.
Does the general appearance of the engine match the km that the car is said to have traveled?/Walla system! NEWS, Keinan Cohen
Under the hood
before buying the car, check what the recommended service interval is and what each service includes.
This will let you know if the 115,000 km car is facing an expensive 120,000 km service that might include a timing belt replacement, for example.
Documentation of the treatments the car has undergone, if any, is a very important component that will allow you to know not only whether it was treated on time, but whether it has a history of replacing unusual or particularly expensive parts.
Its existence can also serve as evidence that the vehicle was kept all these years by loving and caring owners.
Try to find a correlation between the general condition of the car and the appearance of the engine and the kilometers traveled. Does the business look too worn for a car with less than 70 thousand kilometers on the odometer?
Remove the oil gauge and check its condition.
The oil should not be too black and certainly not with a burnt smell.
Look for signs of leaks in the connection between the upper part of the engine (engine head), the central part (the block) and the lower part (the oil pan/crankcase).
Listen to the operation of the engine, is it smooth and free of knocks and irregular noises?
When pressing the gas pedal, the engine response is immediate and without jerks, and there are no squeaks from the engine belts, the accessory belt and the pulleys.
Here save the hood opening/Victoria Police
After the engine is warm (as a rule it is advisable to start checking the car when the engine is cold) while the engine is at idle turn on the air conditioner. There are cars that the engine rpm will change slightly - normal, vibrations and stuttering - absolutely not.
Go over the water pipes that run from the radiator and look for signs of leaks and splashes of the coolant.
Check the tires, not only the production date stamped on them (which should not exceed 4 years under any circumstances) but also the state of wear - if they are not worn symmetrically - this is evidence of a balance problem with the wheels, the steering system or the brakes.
By the way the shock absorbers, take a look at them, are they liquid?
problem.
During the test drive, the goal is not to tear the vehicle apart, but try to feel whether the engine is running smoothly under load/Kenan Cohen
Going for a
test drive in the car you want to buy is a bit complicated.
Personally I have never bought a car without driving it and I do not recommend anyone to buy one without doing so.
But, we also recognize that there are people who have a hard time with this even though they ultimately want to sell you the car.
And I put aside for now insurance issues that can also be overcome.
A little tip, if you get to the test drive stage after trust has been built between the parties, and the seller is impressed by your seriousness - there probably won't be a problem.
My recommendation: coordinating expectations;
"We'll go for a drive, I want to accelerate the car once, brake once and drive on a bumpy road."
Each of these actions has a purpose and a reason, we'll get there.
In the first step, shift into gear and try to feel if the combination is smooth or if the car "jumps" or if there is a "hit" from the direction of the gear.
When accelerating, try to get an idea of whether the engine pulls continuously or if it makes an effort, and that the gears shift properly.
On a completely straight road, straighten the steering wheel, loosen the grip on it and check that the car is driving straight and does not veer to the sides.
In an isolated area with no obstruction to traffic, again with a very loose grip, literally fluttering when touching the steering wheel, he braked hard - no need for emergency braking - but definitely healthy braking.
Try to see if the car maintains braking in a straight line.
In a parking lot turn the steering wheel all the way, back off a little and drive in circles, clicks from the direction of the wheels and shaking of the steering wheel are not something you want to feel.
Do you know a reliable and responsible professional?
Approach him with the vehicle for inspection/Reuven Castro
What now?
You went through the entire list in front of the candidate.
A car that after checking these points was not disqualified, or defects were discovered that you are willing to bear and the seller is willing to pay for, is probably a good car and hence the story depends only on you.
If you feel confident enough about your findings and impressions, it is your choice whether to proceed in the direction of a deal.
Our recommendation is to go to a garage that specializes in cars of this type, or a garage that you know and trust the professionals there to give a more in-depth look, connect with a diagnostic computer and, if possible, also check pollutant emissions.
A real inspection institute will only have no choice, not because they are not professional, but because their findings are rarely intended to protect you from a bad purchase as much as they will protect them from the blame that they missed a defect in the car.
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