Le Figaro Lyon
Dinners served by General de Gaulle to John Fitzgerald Kennedy in June 1961, meals for Napoleon III dating from March 1, 1968, receptions of the greatest heads of state and the Queen of England, for almost 40 years... The Lyon chef Christophe Marguin has collected the largest pages of the official menus of the French State and the British Crown.
A treasure of more than 4,000 pieces that he has decided to sell at auction on May 31 in Paris.
An adventure that began in Paris in 1986 for the boss of Toques Blanches Lyonnaises.
Having gone up to learn his skills in the capital, he discovered
“the most beautiful kitchen library in France”
in the salons of the Association of French Chefs in Paris.
The oldest of the three employees takes a liking to this young man and offers to buy five menu folders for not much.
“Inside there was everything and manuscripts by Auguste Escoffier.
I asked my father to lend me some money and that’s how it started
,” says Christophe Marguin.
“Under which I am still waiting for someone to give me back
,” laughs his father Jacques, a former Michelin star in Les Échets (Ain).
Over time and through his purchases from second-hand booksellers in Paris, then later on eBay, Christophe Marguin's collection grew to become one of the largest in existence.
The menu offered on June 1, 1961 in Versailles to American President John Fitzgerald Kennedy.
Personal collection Christophe Marguin
Thinner and thinner meals
More than just meal memories, throughout these pages, the history of French gastronomy but also of plate diplomacy is revealed.
We see the cuisine evolving, adapting to the times and to different presidents.
“At the beginning of the 20th century when there was an official meal, people only had that to do.
At that time, there was no TV, today's means of transport, etc. So when it's a meal, it's a meal, with ten courses
,” explains the Lyon chef.
The menu given in honor of Queen Elizabeth II in 2014 is indicative of this evolution.
This June 6, Guillaume Gomez, the chef of the Élysée reproduces the menu of the dinner offered to King George V and Queen Mary by the President of the Republic Raymond Poincaré.
A meal composed of 17 dishes at the time (see photo below) which now only includes five, including cheese, a century later.
“For decades we have seen menus shrink.
It was also under Nicolas Sarkozy that they were the shortest since he decided to blow up the cheese.
Finally Hollande put it back on the menu
,” says Christophe Marguin.
So many pieces of history which also tell the little eating habits of the presidents of the Fifth Republic.
From a Chirac who has never eaten a calf's head at the Élysée and prefers lamb from Corrèze, contrary to this passion which is often attributed to him, to Valéry Giscard d'Estaing
"who was probably the one who the most profited
, laughs Christophe Marguin.
It was not uncommon to see caviar at the Élysée in his time.
His successors stopped.
Hollande loved to eat.
He was one of the best ambassadors of French gastronomy.
Emmanuel Macron likes good things and good drinks
.
Menu offered to King George V and Queen Mary by the President of the Republic Raymond Poincaré during the dinner of April 21, 1914. Personal collection Christophe Marguin
Foie gras diplomacy
Sometimes these menus tell a bigger story.
In 2004, for the hundredth anniversary of the Entente Cordiale, Queen Elizabeth II was received at the Élysée.
For the past year, the duck industry has been hit hard by avian flu in France and the State is trying to relaunch its product.
“The protocol service at the Élysée offers two menus to the queen, which never happens, including one with foie gras.
When they do that, they know perfectly well that Charles doesn't eat it.
Finally the queen chose the menu with foie gras as a step towards France
,” says the chef of the restaurant Le Président in Lyon.
A foie gras, Elizabeth II's guilty pleasure, which will be served to her again in 2014.
Also read: Diplomacy in the kitchen
Consulting these menus is also a glimpse of France's exceptional sense of hospitality, where the quality of the menus differs little depending on the rank of the guests.
“The chefs at the Élysée are keen to highlight the best of French products.
So there will always be exceptional dishes on the menu,
explains Christophe Marguin
.
It is rather according to the wine list that we realize the importance of the guests.
The Queen of England always has a great champagne, a great white and a great red for example
.
So many moments of history that it will be possible to discover on May 29 and 30 in the Million showroom, but also on the plate on March 21 in Lyon where the chef of Mère Brazier, Mathieu Viannay, will reproduce the meal served to Kennedy, and on March 28 at 39V in Paris during which Frédéric Vardon will propose the menu served at the Élysée during the legion honor of Paul Bocuse in 1975.